My S-type V6 Sport has a few weeks ago started getting this problem:

Insert the key, there are 3 clicks, the steering lock fails to disengage.
Turn the key and after running through a light sequence the "Steering Column Locked" message comes up and no start occurs (naturally).

The behaviour does not usually go away after waggling the steering wheel, reinserting the key, locking/unlocking the car etc. Sometimes it may do so after locking/unlocking and reinserting the key (several times usually). On other occasions it does not do so, but then at some random period afterwards, usually some hours, the problem will disappear again. Of course it then recurs some days or even weeks later.

I have had the car down to a Jag specialist (not a dealer) who has replaced the ignition unit (the barrel, basically), and recoded the keys and fobs.

The problem has now recurred just over a week later, which is about par for the course. The difficulty is that it will start working again before i can get it to the garage. I did manage to get it to the garage in a non-working state once, and this resulted in the barrel change.

The garage says that there is nothing appearing on the computer but I don't know if that just means that they don't have the correct diagnosis equipment or not. I have read a couple of somewhat similar reports which suggest that there are some codes which are readable in cases like this. What equipment would be used to diagnose faults with the ignition/alarm system?

Could anyone give me some clues as to what diagnosis is possible in a case like this, please?

This often happens most severely when I have had a long-ish run, so the car is hot.

I have some concerns after reading about the common wiring corrosion problem behind the front bumper; could anyone know if the ignition/alarm wiring would also follow this route and therefore this type of corrosion could be causing this type of issue?

Many thanks in advance; I hope someone can suggest a way forward.

Thanks, Andy.

 

See below

 

Just an update:

the ignition barrel was changed (so including the keys too).

However, the problem recurred about 2 weeks afterwards, and is now going away then returning about every 2 weeks. It gets worse for a few days, usually leaving the car stranded at some point. Then it goes away for a couple of weeks, usually after a particularly severe stranding incident.

Any ideas would be welcome!

I think the steering column lock motor is next on the hitlist, together with checking the wiring from the barrel to the motor.

Thanks, Andy

 

is it dangerous ?

Could the lock come on while driving ?

 

Judging by the few others, it could well be the wiring.

BTW, I think you could have rebuilt the barrel to macth your existing keys.

 

I don't think so. It only seems to be that the lock does not disengage from 'cold' - and then the safety feature is that the ignition will not work, of course.

But you are right - when something as apparently basic, but critical, as this fails, it is a bit concerning as to what it could do.

Given the situation, the alternative seems to be scrap the car / sell the car to some unsuspecting person - I would scrap before selling with a known fault, out of principle - or to try to resolve it. I'm trying the latter and trusting that it will continue to fail in the same (safe) manner until it is resolved.

 

Thanks, I am going to get the lock itself changed and get the wiring rechecked again. During the current cold weather it seems to be a consistent problem during the icy mornings - last two days took 2-6 alarm/off cycles to get it to work. That feels like physical cold causing a problem with the lock, but of course it could still easily be a flaky wire corrupting a signal. Strange that it is worse when cold though. That feels physical.

Andy

 

It sounds distinctly fixable. Maybe a jag indy or auto-electrician if you run out of patience?

 

Way back in the autumn of 1979, my 1974 Datsun 260Z suddenly quit starting when the outside temperature fell below freezing. I clearly remember the car stranding me 90 miles from home late one November afternoon when the temperature fell more than 25 degrees in just a couple of hours before my business meeting was over. What a hassle....

It took several days and several different electrical "experts" to track down the problem, but it turned out to be a starter solenoid that began sticking in cold temperatures, therefore refusing to complete the circuit for ignition start-up. When the weather warmed up, the solenoid operated normally. Perhaps your issue is similar. Keep us posted....

 

Thanks, it has been with a jag independent - the problem has been getting it to them in a broken state. When it breaks I can't drive it. I've even had it trailered to them once - and it worked after arriving on the trailer!!!
The last few days I've taken to leaving it parked overnight outside the mechanics, and then use a 'spare' car to get home! So when it next fails and stays stranded next time I hope it will be directly outside the guys place who can see the problem and hopefully fix it. What a hassle this is. Determined not to be beaten...!

 

After several days of freezing temperatures and it failing a little each morning - I left the keys with the garage. Result? Temperature rose 10 degrees and the car started 'perfectly' for the garage...
Currently got it with the cowling off from around the steering column so I can go take a look and have a wiggle with the wiring when it next happens...

 

Update: no amount of fiddling with the wiring under the steering wheel seems to make any difference when this problem occurs. However, I removed and replaced the fuse F59 and immediately the steering lock disengaged when the key was inserted (usually takes 2-10+ attempts when this problem occurs). I hoped this cured it 'permanently', but this morning the problem recurred. I reseated the fuse again, and the lock disengaged at the first attempt. I am going to repeat this to see if it is conclusive. This seems to imply that the problem is just with the fuse box, possibly oxidation on the fuse box itself. I did replace the blade fuse, so that is definitely not oxidised. There has been a small amount of standing water in the bottom of the boot due to a small leak from somewhere.

Can someone recommend the best way to clean the contacts in the fuse box without doing any damage?

Is WD40 safe to spray in the fuse box to keep moisture at bay?

 

Water in the boot is a known serious problem. (Search on trunk not boot btw.) Fixes have been posted and may be in the FAQs.

You tend to get all manner of problems, often weird. Modules as well as fuse panel and wiring/connectors are affected.

You could have problems due to any of the items that are in there (fuses, relays, and so on). If you're lucky, getting it completely dry and sealed will be all that's needed. (If unlucky, you'll be fighting it for ages.)

 

This might help

Jaguar Water Leak in Trunk

 

Has recurred tonight after arriving home. Again the temperature is low (maybe 6C). Played with fuse F59 and this time there is no difference. So, I'm presuming that it was just coincidental that when I replaced the fuse on a couple of occasions it freed the steering lock immediately. This time it didn't make any difference, and no amount of turning it on and off, wiggling the wires etc, will make it work. I presume in a few hours / tomorrow it will come back to life, like usual. I've tried warming both the area under the steering column and the fuse box to confirm if it is temperature related but no joy there either - no apparent difference.
This is driving me mad...!

An hour afterwards, the steering lock immediately came off... mental.

 

i know nothing about the lock, but if you know the voltage it operates on you can try putting that voltage through it and se if the lock operates, you will know if it is wires or lock then. (if that would work)

 

Suppose it involves the part that detects the code from the key. Don't try messing with voltages on that!

If you mess and get it into anti-theft, you'll be needing a dealer & their OBD tool.

Maybe find what does and does not have a live feed when this occurs and whether they should, to try to figure from the elec guide what's happening. But, from the posts it sounds mechanical in the lock in which case that's what to fix.

 

The ignition barrel has already been replaced, and that detects the code from the key. So I don't intend to go near that. I am strongly suspecting that this is just the actual steering column lock itself - which was my first thought, but which my local indy disagreed, going for the ignition barrel instead. from the electrical guide, it seems that there is an control module integrated into the steering column lock. It is connected to the 'corporate network' and has a ground to the main ECM and a voltage feed from the Rear ECM.

At the moment I can't actually LOCATE the steering column lock. Its not at all obvious, despite I think I know what I'm looking for (pics from ebay!). I just want to disconnect the 4-way connector and see if there is voltage when the problem occurs. I believe that the Rear ECM only supplies voltage when all previous security checks have been confirmed.
I do have some water gathering in the boot/trunk, and there seems to be a correlation with weather. Today hoping to dry out and reseal around the boot/trunk and rear light clusters to remove this. I'm hoping this has not affected the RECM, although it is mounted quite high, so should not have met water, but probably has experienced high humidity.

However, since everything else seems ok, i think its unlikely to be the RECM.

Of course the problem only occurs when its freezing cold and often p*ing down, which is just the time you want to try diagnosing it...

If anyone can advise how to locate the steering lock easily, I would appreciate it. I can hear it kick in at the moment but cant physically find it!

 

There are 2 codes: physical (barrel) and electronic (transmitter). I meant the latter as you'd already dealt with the former.

Water in the trunk has caused all manner of troubles, mostly electronic.

 

Water in the trunk/boot is resolved now. Still got the problem, and it is now recurring more frequently, so the mechanic can actually observe it... strange when you are glad the problem got worse!