OK, I know replacing engine mounts seems like an old topic. But I've searched this site, in both the S-type an XJ threads, as well as watched 4 YT videos on the topic, and I keep running into a problem no one seems to mention. Now, I've replaced the passenger side mount without issue. The problem is with the driver's side mount. So, before you start shooting bullets at me, please hear me out. I just need some help:

So here's my question: How are you guys getting the driver's side of the engine to lift high enough to actually clear that (unnecessarily) long top stud on the engine mount?

Background:
I have the car lifted on my Quickjack lift rails so it is stable. I've also removed the front strut tower brace and intake manifold to allow more clearance. As advised, I removed the top mounting nut on the driver's mount and both bottom engine mount nuts. I then placed a long wooden block on my heavy duty floor jack to lift the engine at the driver's side of the oil pain, maximizing lift on that side. I jacked it up until it actually started lifting the entire vehicle. At that point, the driver's side engine mount bracket is mostly up off the engine mount, but the eyelet hole has not cleared the top stud to allow me to remove the engine mount. The top stud is still ~1/8" inside the bracket hole. But lifting any further on the floor jack only lifts the ENTIRE VEHICLE. It does not increase the clearance between the engine bracket and the broken engine mount. Again: How do I lift driver's side of the engine high enough to actually clear that (unnecessarily) long top stud on the engine mount, without lifting the whole car?

Is there another bolt or bracket that I should remove first to allow the engine to lift further off the subframe? Does loosening the trans mount bolts to the frame help? I haven't see anyone really explain all the details of this in any of the threads here, nor in the videos I've watched.

P.S. I've replaced the engine mounts in previous vehicles, but in those cars either the top or the bottom of the mount used a bolt, while the other end had a stud. Or there was just more clearance to lift the engine higher. Having studs at both ends of the engine mount is what makes this repair a nightmare.

I've also replaced the radiator, alternator, belt tensioners, most of the hoses, and half a dozen other parts, so perhaps I'm just getting frustrated that I can't yet get this car back on the road. But I'm not giving up. So any additional guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance for your patience.

 

Check to make sure the intake pipe that goes to the throttle body is not hitting the metal brace under the windshield cowl. I am referring to the big aluminum pipe that goes over the supercharger. I have been there before myself with your situation. If it is hitting the brace you will need to remove the intake pipe or the brace after removing the windshield cowl. If you only remove the pipe as i call it be careful not to raise the throttle body into the brace as it will break the thin lip area

 

Check to make sure the intake pipe that goes to the throttle body is not hitting the metal brace under the windshield cowl. I am referring to the big aluminum pipe that goes over the supercharger. I have been there before myself with your situation. Sorry for the duplicate. I guess i hit submit twice

 

Thank you, but as I mentioned, I removed the intake plenum (aluminum) and the strut tower brace to allow more clearance. I'll still take a look around the throttle body and EGR tomorrow to see if something else is interfering with lifting the engine more. I just need it to rise a few more millimeters to clear that top stud. So close!

 

Check Out my channel JAGVETTE1 I have done a number of video's on the S Type R they may help

 

Just following up. A few days later I managed to finish the job.

No real trick, I just kept jacking the engine up even when it lifted the car. It seemed scary at first, but the vehicle was on a Quickjack so there was no safety risk in doing so. It eventually cleared the subframe just enough to force the driver's side engine mount sideways and pop it out toward the back of the engine. I did not need to remove the steering rack or any hoses. I did, however, remove the primary O2 sensor just to create more clearance, allowing the engine mount to exit just ahead of the driver's side catalyst. On the new engine mount, I cut the top and bottom studs about 5 and 7mm respectively and ground a chamfer on both to make installation much easier.

So, if you're having trouble removing the driver's side engine mount, just keep on jacking it up! Even when it raises the car slightly. You'll eventually get the lower stud to clear the subframe. Then pop it sideways, back toward the exhaust. That's it! I hope this helps someone who might start getting a little discouraged like I was that day. (The lack of sleep the night before probably didn't help). All's well now.

I've since been continuing with other repairs, including replacement of the radiator and hoses, all the FEAD, alternator, front sway bar bushings, and repairing the transmission and oil cooler lines that were starting to leak. Along with several other "as long as I'm in there" items. Wish me luck.