Brinny, If you mean the top stud of the rubber mount back into the slot in the bracket, it can be a sod. This is what I did - with much thanks to Grant:
Loosen the bottom mount stud nut so the mount can flop about (hard to do but OK with a 9/16th ratchet spanner). Loosen the other side's top and bottom nuts so that side is floppy too.
Then raise the engine on the support beam; this should, repeat should, allow you to move the top mount stud about using a long screwdriver and keeping your fingers well away. Then holding the mount as required, lower the engine and try to get the stud into the slot.
If this fails, then still supporting the engine with a beam, support the subframe with a jack, remove the rear subframe V mount nuts and lower the rear of the frame a touch (disconnect the steering and loosen the six shot bolts), then again manoeuvre the rubber mount stud as you raise the subframe with the jack and again try using a long screwdriver, as the subframe is raised, to get the mount stud into the bracket slot. This can be done and will work, even if you have to have a few goes. The key is loosening the mount bottom stud nut as much as you can, then the mount can be tilted quite a bit. you might have to do this both sides, and undo the A bank top mount nut completely, but it will be Ok as long as there are two of you to guide, one each side.

 

I did this job 1/2hour ago.

I had already raised the engine on the support beam clear of the engine mounts to lower the subframe to get the rack out. Once the subframe was bolted back up I lowered the engine onto the mounts it sat down straight on the mounts no wiggling needed. Getting the nut on well that is a pig of a job on the B side as the PS oil cooler is in the way. Unbolting the oil cooler from the subframe gives better access, but it does take a lot longer to do the nut up. I used a 9/16 ring spanner upsidedown 1/8 of a turn at a time.

 

t b this engine., But, did a similar task on the v8 install in my XJ wuzza 6.

1. Leave the bolts to the X slack til the engine part is attached., Wiggle and flex is good.

2. My racheting ring wrench would have been nice. Not a part of my tool collection at the time.

Carl

 

Thanks boys, it’s the bolt that sits snug inside the mounting pressing. No headroom for a socket adjuster joint. I will persevere knowing I am not alone in the struggle! Many thanks

 

Brinny
I do not follow, do you mean 9 in this diagram? If so a 9/16th ratchet spanner is the best tool:
https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/set...alfords-746054
or

 

Thats why I dont run a steer cooler on any of the V12's, Syn ATF in the Saginaw, move on.

2 less hose joints to leak, whoopee.

 

Me neither, thanks to you Grant. And for those who want to, it is very easy to do, as the cooler bracket is bolted to the subframe by 7/16s hex headed bolts that go into captive nuts, for once! So it can be undone and removed from above once the airbox is unclipped. The cooler runs the low pressure return, and often there is enough slack to just fit the cooler input flexible straight to the pump with no joiner needed.

 

Are you guys talking V12 engine mount difficulties? How is the 4.0 AJ16 mount removal and replacement? Might have to do it to replace the front sub six shots.

 

The two mounts in question here, I've done it on the six. Without hijacking the thread, it's pretty straightforward. I supported the engine from underneath with a jack. Worked fine. Getting the bolts back on is a challenge of patience, but can be done.

I ordered the #9 parts from URO. Seemed fine, I also ordered cheap MTC parts, just to see what $9 buys ya...yikes. Stay away. I'm not sure if this part warrants OEM parts, since it is a DIY job that is frustrating, but not difficult. If you hate the URO, you can upgrade to OEM later.

 

It is a cinch on a 6 to get the engine mount studs in place. Not so on the 12.

 

Greg ,I am struggling with no. 16 in the diagram. I already have 2 bolts in but I have a hole also in the area under the pressed part of the mount. Is there two or three bolts to hold it to the subframe? Hope the answers 2 and I don’t have to put this one in !

 

On a 6 yes, very straightforward; on a 12 no.

 

OK. These are the bolts that hold the engine mounting bracket to the subframe. They are I would say, just about impossible to get at engine in car. You really need to have these torqued up before fitting the engine to the subframe. You do need all three, and AFAIR, their nuts are not captive, either.
Assuming you have a beam, I would support the engine and swing down the subframe until can you get at the mounts properly. Then you have the joyful task that Warren and I were thinking you meant, of locating the upper rubber mount studs as he subframe is jacked back up. Keep the lower rubber mount stud loose, but with its nut attached, and then as I mentioned, joggle the top one into the slot in the bracket fixed to the engine as the subframe rises up, Two people, one each side and slowly on the jack.

 

Bloody hell, I was thinking those CANNOT be the ones Bob is doing now the engine is back in, not enough beer Bob.

DAMN

Somewhere around 1987ish, the subframes became the ONE part number 6 or 12, and those bloody nuts became welded into the subframe, so MAYBE you have a later subframe.

If not

Do as Greg/Warren suggests, or take the engine out, and I am NOT being a smart ****, its just how it is.

Leaving it out, dunno, coz 6 cyl cars that are lumped with "worked" V8's, punch way above the old XK engine power and torque, and they dont have any issues that I know of, and since we are all getting a tad more sedate with our driving, and car care, maybe OK, but dont hang your hat of my mutterings PLEASE.

 

Lol. I will try again.

 

I would suspend the engine by the top see pic, then hinge the subframe down to get at those bolts

 

Hello Greg and Grant

Thanks for this advice. A previous owner disconnected the cooler from where ever it was suppose to be and left it hanging in the breeze under the car. How it has managed to stay intact has got me stuffed. Just another previous owner "what the?".

I will disconnect the cooler and make it pretty again

Cheers
Steve

 

Last number 16 bolt now in without too much grief. I removed the air box which gave me enough room to see what I was doing. A series of socket adapters and extensions allowed me to get the bolt started and run in to the captive nut. Glad that’s done. Think I would have put a run of weld on the mount if I’d had too. Thanks for your assistance all.