My woes continue. As part of the process of replacing all of the cooling hoses on my STR I accidentally broke one of the transmission hoses. Got a replacement end installed no problem, but now I cannot get the fill plug out to replace the 2 liters of transmission fluid I spilled. I have now broken two 8mm hex bits trying to remove it, the 2nd one after heating the plug wit MAPP gas for 15 minutes to loosen it. I see some of the BMW's came with bottom fill plugs, but mine apparently does not have this style pan. I am wondering whether I should just chisel it out at this point, potentially ruining the transmission housing, or try some other procedure, perhaps a fluid fill through the cooler lines? Anyone else ever run in to anything like this?

 

Are you talking about a pan that has a standpipe for determining the fluid level? That's how the 5R55N is on my '02, but that is a totally different animal. But if it is possible to convert to this style pan, that would be the easiest option. You could refill the transmission through the hole in the standpipe. Use a piece of flex hose and make sure it gets up and over the top, otherwise most of the fluid would ricochet straight back out as you fill.

If that is not feasible, whatever you do, resist the urge to use a hardened screw extractor on the recalcitrant plug. Screw extractors have their place, and are amazing tools, but are only suitable to remove fasteners that will spin free with MINIMAL torque. They are horrible to use on seized fasteners, as they will snap off long before the fastener breaks free. Then you end up with a broken, hardened shank stuck in the end of the fastener. Trust me, the job goes from bad to worse when that happens. It's almost as bad as discovering your blind date is Rosie O'Donnell. Not sure what to suggest otherwise for removal of a stuck fastener, but do stay away from screw extractors. I do not care to discuss how I know this.

 

Yeah, I have decided that is what I am going to do, convert to the RRS style steel pan with the standpipe. Going to order Monday.

 

One other thought:

What material is the damaged fill plug? If it won't come out and is fairly big, how difficult would it be to drill through the middle and retap new threads for a smaller plug within a plug? You wouldn't want to try this if hardened steel, but it might work with a softer material. Grease on the drill and tap will catch most metal chips, and any that did fall inside will land harmlessly in the pan and never make it past the filter.

 

I think the fill plug is aluminum, but man is the space tight. You have to drop the rear transmission cross member to let the rear of the transmission down to even get a tool in there. It could be drilled out and tapped for a plug in a plug, if the pan was removed you would have access to the other side of the tapped hole. Either way the steel plan seems a better option, so that is the path I am going to take.

I really wish I could hold an ***-kicking contest with the guy who put this plug in.

 

Instead of allen bits I would try a long handle 8mm wrench after I had soaked that plug multiple times with your favorite flavor of penetrant. I have seem some videos of the transmission service where the bent part of the wrench has to be cut down because of lack of clearance.

Now I maybe wrong on this but I thought that this transmission whether you use the plastic or the steel pan there was no standpipe ever designed to be used with this 6 spd. transmission.

 

I have 3/4 drive bit holder, lots of torque but the 8mm is the weak link. I don't think penetrant would do **** since it has an o-ring seal between the head and the threads. My guess is the head is torqued down against the case, seizing the whole thing. I could chisel it out, but the steel pan is recommended anyway.

Here is the kit:

https://www.oregonperformancetransmi...P-K79600M.html

 

Is the standpipe the white T-shaped piece at the left? I saw that same pic and first thought it was the long tube on the right, but I think that's just the normal fluid pickup. Note the gasket on that long tube, not required on a standpipe.

 

The white standpipe on the left is the fill/level tube. The long tube on the right is the filter pickup tube, with the o-ring at the top of the tube. The steel pan does not use a integral filter, it is seperate and in the photo sitting in the trans pan. You shove it up in to the transmission. Future replacements do not require pan replacement, only the filter. This as the system used on the RRS those years.

 

Thanks for the info. on the steel pan I knew one existed but did not realize it had a fill port on the bottom of the pan. I had thought it was just a copy of the plastic pan with the same features. So how does it work do you just pump the fluid up the tube till it overflows? Do you still have to measure temperature of the fluid?

I saw that the years for the Stype it is supposed to fit was 07-08 is this a misprint because I thought all the 6spd. transmissions were the same. I look forward to your input when you get it because I need to service the trans. on my 2005 STR.

 

only audi and bmw awd use a standpipe. you force your fill tube through the slots. very messy and miserable

 

 

With that broad shoulder but limited access, could you get in there with a small cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool? Cut a wide slot across the face. Then get a flat punch or old screwdriver on there from underneath, as close to perpendicular as possible, and percuss the snot out of it. I bet it would break free that way.

If using an old screwdriver as your punch, grind the tip good and square so it can get a good grip on the edge of the slot.

 

Even if you had to drop the gearbox 'tail' for a little more access it would be worth the effort.
Dislodge the right exhaust pipe?

 

Well don't feel bad as they are all tighter than the hubs of hell!! Why I don't know.
I used a stubby right angle Allen wrench and a 15 inch cheater. When it broke loose I thought I had broken the Allen wrench.
It's way easier if the car is in the air on a lift so you have a little more room to work.
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