Topping up and bleed the cooling system after coolant loss whilst changing the valley hose.
I am also following the coolant top up procedure for the supercharger's pump system as well as I would have lost a bit of coolant here also by removing the supercharger coolant hoses. The Workshop Manual lists the usual warnings to 'not allow the supercharger water pump to run dry for more than one minute' by first just turning the ignition on without running the engine after a top up as well through the supercharger coolant filler plug.
All good but I cant get the filler plug off, must be corrosion in the threads. I know this plug wouldn't have been taken off in years..
I did't have a specific tool to remove the plug but my harmonic puller heavy duty bolt fit in perfectly in the plugs cavity and I made use with a ring spanner. I applied heaps of torque but am afraid to apply any more torque here now as I can see the supercharger coolant plug's alloy base being sheared away from the supercharger outlet pipe to which it is attached.
Any suggestions here?
Any other way to top up/bleed the system?
I did not fully drain the cooling system and I think that there should should still be coolant around the supercharger coolant pump at least!
Thanks,






View of supercharger coolant filler plug, only lightly attached to the supercharger outlet pipe..

Good grip on things but won't easily move! Not sure how much more to push..

 

I know when I had to remove mine I found that size hex in 1/2" drive size. (I believe the size hex is 19mm, not SAE size)

And was able to get it loose with a breaker bar.

Do not use a sub, even if you think it fits in perfectly. Find the right tool!

If you strip that fill plug your gonna be in trouble.

 

You can always VACUUM FILL the cooling system!

bob

 

Here you go, from the world of aviation:

https://www.yardstore.com/standard-s...cker-old-man-8

It's powered by a standard pneumatic rivet gun or air hammer. A $20 special from HF would do just fine, as long as it has a .401" shank.

Here's a video showing a similar model in use.


If you look carefully, you'll see this is a slightly different model that only takes Apex style screwdriver bits. The model I suggested is more versatile, in my over-inflated opinion, because it has a standard 3/8" socket drive. You'll need to get a 3/8" drive hex bit to fit the recalcitrant plug.

We use these all the time at work, or at least we did, way back last week when planes were still flying. These things are amazing. Unlike other methods, you have full control. Tease the trigger or adjust the air pressure to control the vibrating impact force. Your muscles apply the rotating torque, unlike an impact gun that only has one setting (too much).

 

I have an 06....plug is on top, but same design....i did what abonano said tool wise, but heated the thread area with a handheld butane torch for a minute or so and gave it a sharp hand whack on the breaker bar and it popped loose....if in doubt, Bob's vacuum method is the way to go

 

So I have had to empty and refill my coolant several times for various reasons.

What I have found is that if you have the front of the car up high and then go thru the refill process it works quite well.

When I have done this and THEN checked in the SC pug hole it was up to the top anyway.

So I would suggest not accidentally ruining anything for nothing.

Vacuum filling is the best way obviously./

 

I made my own Vacuum Filler years ago from a large rubber stopper, a PCV 3 way valve and some plastic tubing.
A simple A/C pneumatic vacuum (venturi) pump is used to evacuate the air from the system and then the valve is turned to stop the vacuum and open the cooling system to the 5 gallon container full of coolant mix (50/50 coolant/water)

The kits are cheap now. I saw some on eBay for under $40.

 

I guess im the only one to have snapped that filler plug assembly off the intake duct? I wasnt even using much torque and the aluminum support ripped in half

 

Ouch

 

ya im pissed. Ill post a pic later

BUT THATS A WARNING! I WASNT OVER CRANKING IT BUT IT BROKE.

still useable though

 

Thanks for all your reply's gents! Vacuum fill looks a great way and I may need to buy a kit.
There was lots of coolant still in the system so I just connected everything back up, turned the heater on to open the heater matrix after I topped up and bled the expansion tank. Let the engine run until I was satisfied the thermostat had opened and I could see coolant circulating. The tank level dropped down slightly and I trickled the colder temperature coolant in until it was at the 'max' level and then just sealed the cap.
Filler plug still stuck on though. Will try heating area first. I could see this was a weak spot and with too much torque this was going to break away from its mount as happened to poor Aarcuda.
When I had this manifold out I stared at this filler plug long and hard on my workbench trying to work out what the hell its use was lol, unfortunately I was more focused on successfully finishing off the valley hose. Being inexperienced I missed the opportunity to try and remove the plug whilst I had it on the bench by supporting it's base with one of my tools and then trying to remove... May have to pull it of again when I change the RH cam cover gasket; which I should have done whilst I was doing the new valley hose, new drive belts, loom repair, new radiator foams, new windscreen cowl insulation, new head lining, bonnet cable break repair, new retrofit factory sunblind and new retrofit factory premium stereo. Just to name a few! Hate too see that bill if I was paying someone to do it.
Anyhow does anyone know what the use is of the inter-cooler bleed screws?