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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 09:29 AM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by tony1963
Anyone who spends that much on some "magic coolant" is the ideal consumer for the expert marketing execs.


Please, by all means, buy train car tankers of this stuff.


As for me, I'm sticking with OEM since I buy 5% under wholesale, being a licensed dealer.


It's nice to have a dealer's license, especially in Alabama.
Odd that no-one interested in the stuff has described it as magic (or miracle). Or that they would buy tankers of any kind of it.

It's helping me that YOU can get 5% under wholesale so thanks for letting me know.

If I get a dealer's licence and move to Alabama that'll be me all set. Again, I'm so grateful you let me know.

I can't tell you how much you've helped with my concerns about the valley pipe and how it's affected by a pressurised cooling system.

Wait - I can. You've not helped at all. Again.

Please stop posting unless you can add something helpful.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 09:29 AM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by Jerakeen
Seeing both of those videos were what prompted me to investigate this stuff in the first place.

To be honest apart from the cost there doesn't seem to be a downside to it.
Both of those videos are full of half truths and fractured fairy tales. The science behind them has been dissected several times on this website. The biggest misconception is the idea that the fluid does not change volume with temperature.

You are correct that it seems to be a solution in search of a problem.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 09:31 AM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by avos
I weighed the solution and there was actually about 3 gram less than I started with, so also some of the evans had evaporated.


?? Wasn't expecting that!
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 10:10 AM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by tony1963
I have no intention of apologizing to you, but you might consider offering an apology to me.


I guess as long as you agree with the post, you're popular. Disagree, and you aren't.
I don’t need apologies, just unsubscribe from this thread please, you have given your view many times now, I accept I am not able to bring you to reason.

If being popular is important for you, I can assure you, you will be if you can bring some good technical knowledge/evidence, being it pro or con!

Sharpening up the discussion is only welcome, we can than give a great summary in a couple of months.

Is it really to much to ask to keep this thread on topic and more based on evidence/technical info?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 10:17 AM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by Mikey
?? Wasn't expecting that!

Assuming I measured correctly, I guess just like water that can evaporate at lower temperatures than the boiling point, Evans possibly also, or it somehow goes with the water vapor or so.

But this quick test does give an interesting possibility, in case the water content is to high, you could just boil it off.

I still don’t know if how it will work with the overflow tank, so if water vapor could get out as well, that is something I will have to check over a longer period.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 10:32 AM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by tony1963
I have no intention of apologizing to you, but you might consider offering an apology to me.

I guess as long as you agree with the post, you're popular. Disagree, and you aren't.
You got that right LOL.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 12:16 PM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by tony1963
I have no intention of apologizing to you, but you might consider offering an apology to me.


I guess as long as you agree with the post, you're popular. Disagree, and you aren't.
You're unpopular when you say irrelevant things, disagree without evidence, put words in people's mouths they never used, beat a point to death especially when you never actually made a valid point and so on. That's what you've been doing. Destructive childish behaviour.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 07:16 PM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by avos
Assuming I measured correctly, I guess just like water that can evaporate at lower temperatures than the boiling point, Evans possibly also, or it somehow goes with the water vapor or so.
That sounds like good news! Your microwave test was done at 130 C, not much above the temp that Evans might be expected to reach. So, if you run pressureless, any excess water will evaporate at that time, and then just top up with Evans.
 

Last edited by Robinb; Nov 23, 2014 at 07:34 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 07:22 PM
  #189  
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130C (267F) is well above normal or acceptable coolant temps. That's engine seizure range.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 07:48 PM
  #190  
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Not with Evans - it's miracle juice
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 08:41 PM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by Mikey
130C (267F) is well above normal or acceptable coolant temps. That's engine seizure range.
I'm searching for the point you must be trying to make, but find none.

OK, got it! Avos, you are a very bad lad for misleading us all by conducting your coolant tests at temperatures at which you must know engine seizures will occur. Go directly to jail....
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 08:55 PM
  #192  
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Robin-

No need to be sarcastic. You take others to task for doing so.

If the coolant in a car ever reached 130C, the engine would be close to, or have already seized.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 11:25 PM
  #193  
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OK, Mikey, let's put it another way...

The table below shows the boiling point in deg. C of coolant (ethylene glycol/water) at 0 psi and 15 psi, using different mixes:

% Glycol...... At 0 psi.... At 15 psi....
........0........... 100.......... 120
......33........... 104.......... 125
......50........... 108.......... 129

Now, here's a quote from you in this very thread...

Originally Posted by Mikey
...Cars are designed to operate at around 15psi and have no trouble doing so throughout their service life.
So, cars are designed to operate at around 129 deg. C with no trouble throughout their service life. Yet you also state that at that temperature, engines are either about to seize or have already seized. There's a whiff of b/s in the air.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 12:32 AM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by Mikey
130C (267F) is well above normal or acceptable coolant temps. That's engine seizure range.
Oh come on....

I was just trying to see if you could boil of the water, and to speed it up I raised it to a higher temp. It would also have worked if I kept the temp lower, otherwise please enlighten me as to why water would not evaporate at lower temperatures then 130c.

But come to think of it, there could be hot spots in the head, and I would not be surprised if there you could reach these temperatures or higher. But that was not my check.

As said it was more anecdotal, but given the results it does give me the opportunity that if the coolant would go over the max 3% water, there is a way to get it out, without buying new again (even though that would not be an issue for me).

 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 03:32 AM
  #195  
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Originally Posted by Robinb
OK, Mikey, let's put it another way...

The table below shows the boiling point in deg. C of coolant (ethylene glycol/water) at 0 psi and 15 psi, using different mixes:

% Glycol...... At 0 psi.... At 15 psi....
........0........... 100.......... 120
......33........... 104.......... 125
......50........... 108.......... 129

Now, here's a quote from you in this very thread...



So, cars are designed to operate at around 129 deg. C with no trouble throughout their service life.
No, that's to misunderstand. The table shows what would happen at 129. It's never meant to happen in the car because it would be damaging. Instead, the PCM puts the fans on (and in some of the engines will shut cylinders down if it has to). It's trying to run hot but nothing like THAT hot.

It's not actually trying to run pressurised (which is probably why the coolant system has no pressure sensor) except that it has to with the OE coolant in order to run as hot as it aims.
 

Last edited by JagV8; Nov 24, 2014 at 03:35 AM.
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 09:41 AM
  #196  
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Originally Posted by Robinb
OK, Mikey, let's put it another way...

The table below shows the boiling point in deg. C of coolant (ethylene glycol/water) at 0 psi and 15 psi, using different mixes:

% Glycol...... At 0 psi.... At 15 psi....
........0........... 100.......... 120
......33........... 104.......... 125
......50........... 108.......... 129

Now, here's a quote from you in this very thread...



So, cars are designed to operate at around 129 deg. C with no trouble throughout their service life. Yet you also state that at that temperature, engines are either about to seize or have already seized. There's a whiff of b/s in the air.
Sorry but that's a horrible leap of logic. No car I know of is designed to run at those sort of temps nor did I say anything of the sort.

The boiling point of a coolant is completely unrelated to the design or actual operating temps of the cooling system.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 10:11 AM
  #197  
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I'm experimenting with molten salt as a coolant. Problem is that it melts the engine and components. Somehow the valley pipe survives.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 11:00 AM
  #198  
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Don't be silly. Molten salt won't melt the engine.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 11:02 AM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by JagV8
Don't be silly. Molten salt won't melt the engine.
Actually he's right. Salt melts at around 1500*F.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 11:58 AM
  #200  
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Working with depleted uranium too in a molten form. It makes no pressure so valley pipe should be safe.
 
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