Thanks!

I can manage to stick coolant in having drained etc, that's easy stuff, but it would also be cheap to pay labour. Not at all like the valley pipe & its labour.

 

The existing coolant must be completely removed. This is followed by a flush using 1-2 gallons of special prep fluid, which also must be then be removed from the system, and replaced by the new coolant itself after ensuring that the residual water in the system does not exceed 3% by volume.

Modifying the system to convert it to pressureless is a separate operation. Not sure how Avos accomplished that on his car.

 

Sure beats the valley pipe!

 

That took some engineering, preparation and careful execution ;-)

It took about 10 seconds in total, grabbing the screw driver was the hardest, then deform the pressure seal a little with that in the pressure cap and done.

I still have a good cap, so I only need to swap caps to go from pressure less or pressurized, so on my model its easy.

 

Many cars have expensive time bombs. If you think the STR coolant pipe is bad try a diesel Mondeo. When the dual mass flywheel goes at around 130k (and it will) you're looking at a bill of around £1000. Then about the same time the injectors go. That's another grand or so. Then there's the turbo which tends to let go at a similar mileage. Ouch!! Some things you just have to take into account if you want a particular car.

I looked into this coolant a while ago with the intention of putting in in my Eunos (MX5/Miata) but it comes in 5 litre containers at about £90 for the prep fluid and coolant kit. My Eunos needs 6 litres so I'd have buy 2 sets at nearly 200 quid and then throw almost half of it away, and to be honest it was difficult to see the advantage of spending that much money when normal coolant costs about a tenth of the price.

 

It's the £1000 bill just to replace the valley pipe. £90 or double is a steal.

 

Glycol is extremely hygroscopic. With the contents of the tank now open to the atmosphere and the 'breathing' of the tank with each engine thermal cycle, the % of water will exceed the maximum allowable in fairly short order. I would not presume that the moisture will be driven off by heat.

I would also suggest finding a method of adapting a bellows of some sort to isolate the coolant from the atmosphere.

 

In my posts above, I was thinking first of a vehicle I own now that has a 4.6L 32V DOHC engine shared with the Ford Mustang. The early versions suffered from lack of cylinder head cooling towards the rear of the engine. Failures were random and occurred without warning. Engines were beyond repair and the costs to replace frequently exceeded the value of the vehicle.

Many years ago I owned an Infiniti, again DOHC, that had an issue with the cam chain tensioner that depended upon engine oil pressure to work properly. If it failed, the cam chain would be slack enough to jump time- and there goes the engine.

I escaped the bullet on both vehicles. Again- I know of no high end vehicle that doesn't have an Achilles heel or two.

 

Thanks for the tip, a bellow or so would be a good thing indeed to keep it fully closed.

For now I will leave it just to see how much time it actually takes to have water coming in this way. It's easy to check the water content, so I don't mind for now.

What would be your best guess in how much time it takes to have the water content grow by 1% (meaning about 100cc)?

 

The really hygroscopic product is the prep fluid. With an Avos-type cap, there's no full-time exposure to the atmosphere, and Evans has not mentioned the need for any special cap design.

The more I read about this coolant, the more i like the idea.

Boils at 180 C, freezes at -40 C.
Non-toxic, as opposed to regular coolant.
Non-aqueous, so no scaling or corrosion.
Better cooling ability because of higher boiling point
Pressureless.
Greatly extends the life of coolant hoses, maybe also the DCCV and thermostat.

Refractometers (to measure the % water) are about $25 on eBay.

 

The biggest contributor would the regular cycling of coolant in and out of the tank. Each cool down cycle of the engine would draw in a fresh load of air. The coolant in the tank would absorb the moisture while the car sits. This contaminated fluid would then be mixed with uncontaminated the next time the engine is brought to normal operating temp. This mixture would re-enter the main system during the next cool down.

Calculating how quickly the entire system absorbs moisture to the maximum permitted level (3%) would require knowing how much fluid gets exchanged at each heat cool cycle, the exposed surface area of the coolant inside the tank, how long the car sits, relative humidity and temperature during the rest cycle and the (most likely proprietary) hygroscopic properties of the coolant.

IOW, I don't have a clue. I'm thinking months at a minimum. Maybe years.

 

Avos, if you have a litre or so of each (prep and regular) coolant to spare, you could leave them in a open-cap container side by side, and monitor the % water over the days/weeks/months that follow. That would be a worst-case scenario, and also allow you to compare the relative hygroscopic rates of the 2 fluids.

 

Anyone who spends that much on some "magic coolant" is the ideal consumer for the expert marketing execs.


Please, by all means, buy train car tankers of this stuff.


As for me, I'm sticking with OEM since I buy 5% under wholesale, being a licensed dealer.


It's nice to have a dealer's license, especially in Alabama.

 

It may be magic for you there in Alabama, but not for me.

It’s just a fluid with different properties that may fit certain setups better than the OEM recommended.

Am not condoning oem or evans, nor am I advocating one of them, just experimenting as I do like some porperties of the evans.


I am really happy for you that you can buy oem that makes you feel good, another great contribution.

 

 

Seeing both of those videos were what prompted me to investigate this stuff in the first place.

To be honest apart from the cost there doesn't seem to be a downside to it. It's obviously significantly better than normal water based coolant but it's ten times the price and unless you have a car that is particularly prone to failures I really don't think it's ten times better.

I've been driving for over 40 years and in that time, and with many many different cars, I have never had a problem that was caused by a pressurised coolant system.

 

Have set a glass open with coolant in the garage.

The misses was out this morning, so could do some fun testing, please consider this test more as anecdotal:

I prepared a jug with 50cc of evans, and added about 1,5 gram f water to it. Indeed the water content was after measuring about 3% (give or take).

Next I put the jug into the microwave, brought up the temperature to about 130c, and put the jug in the garage to slowly cool of. Lots of vapor came of it.

I weighed the solution and there was actually about 3 gram less than I started with, so also some of the evans had evaporated.

Tested the solution, and it was close to 0% again.

 

My thoughts have nothing to do with being in Alabama. I'm actually from Ohio with an MBA in healthcare administration, so the terse remarks are inappropriate.


Alabama is a great place to live, certainly better than the rust-infested north or the high taxes of the northeast.


Stay on point and stop trying to discredit someone who does not support the move to waterless coolant.


I am sure that there are all of the benefits that are cited. However, it cannot be cost justified which is where most "magic" fluids meet their demise.

 

I know nothing about Alabama, don't know what I toughed there, it was just a reaction on your post. I also don’t expect an apology from you considering all the inappropriate comments made in previous posts, nor the repeating yourself over and over again.

Now that have this out of the way, for those that do work on their cars (like I do), one of the major benefits is also the non (or low) toxicity of the product, which you must appreciate considering your background I guess.

That’s another major plus for the product imo, and now I am seriously regretting not having taken the step long time ago. There was always a spill and I always got somehow in contact with the toxic oem stuff.

 

I have no intention of apologizing to you, but you might consider offering an apology to me.


I guess as long as you agree with the post, you're popular. Disagree, and you aren't.