Installed New Engine. The car started- Nice!
However, the transmission illumination went away.
Shifter would not shift. Gearbox linkage is not working.
I manually put tranny in park.
Cleared all ODB codes. Now the car wont start- no crank/turn-over... just dead.
The radio works, climate control works.
I get a temporary fast beeping sound (Tranny may not be in park after all ???)
Most codes were cleared (I wrote the old ones down)
I still have the gearbox and engine performance faults tho.
ODB code is p1000

What are my options for resolution?

Thx in advance
2003 S-Type 4.2l

 

That does sound like not in park. There is an interlock (explained in JTIS) of a few items so check them all, including wiring & connectors.

P1000 is in the codes PDF (in FAQ here & in JTIS).

 

P1000 means the test cycle has not finished yet, it doesn't mean there's a problem. The cycle won't complete if the engine hasn't been running long enough.

 

The challenge is getting the motor running again. I did manage to locate the interlink cable. What do I do with it?

 

The fast beep and no crank / no start is the trans not in physically in park. OR the ECM thinking it's not.

If you can manually manipulate the shift cable, try to get the trans into neutral, Disconnect the battery, and reconnect and try to see if it will start.

Other possible causes:

Neutral / Park brake switch
OR you blew a fuse somewhere and the TCM isn't coming online.

You using the new or old engines's ECU?
Any PATS security lights? (trying to cover all the bases here).

Take care,

George

 

George, I am using the old engines's ECU.
I replaced the engine and the car started up without any problem.
The shifter just lost its illumination as I reached down to change gear.

The codes I was getting before I cleared all ...
P0300
P0304
P0305
P0306
P0307
P0308
P1313
P1314
P1316
P0102
P0112
P0117
P0122
P0182
P0193
P0222
P0405
P0430
P0456
P1108
P1646
P1647
P1111

Right now...

No PATS security lights.
gearbox and engine performance faults.
ODB code is p1000

I turn the key and get no crank/turn-over... just dead.
The radio works, climate control works.


My course of action will be:
#1 - try to get the trans into neutral, Disconnect the battery, and reconnect and try to see if it will start
#2 - Check for blown fuses

 

George, nice pattern of diagnostic flow-thinking. May be PATS. examine battery for state of charge/dead cell(s), perform a hard re-set.

 

I got the engine running and the transmission is illuminated and in park!

Here's what I did...

I disconnected the black battery cable
I reconnected and turned the car "on" without starting the engine
I removed and reseated the engine coil relay
I was then able to start the car and get the transmission back
Further investigation into why the gear shifter wasn't working has revealed that the gear shift cable was broken.

I'm off to the dealer to buy a replacement cable.
I hope this resolves everything

 

Good Job getting the car running.
What led you to think the coil relay was not seated properly?
The motor would still crank, you'd just have no spark.

Take care,

George

 

George,

Thanks for your input on this thing. Initially I pulled and reseated all the relay switches to get the engine running. Then I was able to reproduce the problem and the engine coil relay allowed me to start the engine again.

Correction: The relay that I isolated (R5- engine compartment fuse box) is actually the Engine Management System relay
When the car wouldn't start, I was hearing an abnormal sound (spinning/grinding) coming from the EGR valve that stopped when I removed & reseated the relay. Then the car would "get spark" and start.

The shifter cable has been installed and the car is drivable. However, the engine is getting hot so I removed the thermostat, which had no effect. I'm thinking the water pump is not working??? What do you think?

Also, the power steering is not working, it looks like I'm gonna need to replace the pump.

Kearnice

 

You sure the belt has tension?? Two pumps driven off the same belt that aren't working seems a little suspect.

Have you properly bled the coolant, otherwise your overheating may be a funciton of ain air pocket. Do you have heat @ idle???

I have the bleeding procedure if you need it.

Take care,

George

 

George, excellent advice in getting Kearnice going again.

 

I drained all coolant and removed the radiator previously; since I had to replace the engine.

Currently...

The water pump appears to be working properly. The engine temperature was getting hot, I expect the cooling fan to engage, it doesn't.

No thermostat installed
The coolant temperature sensor maybe?
Where can I find the mappings for the fuse boxes?

 

Here are all the factory wiring diagrams I put them on my server for you.

Once again, have you bled the car thoroughly? The car will overheat before the coolant gets hot if there is an an air pocket blocking flow. Basically the motor is getting hot because there is NO coolant flowing.

Here's the link to the electrical diagrams. Let me know if you need help tracking stuff down.

http://www.itprosondemand.com/jaguar...ec%20Guide.pdf

Take care,

George

 

When should I expect the cooler fan to come on? It didnt come on when the engine got hot

I have a few more issues

The EGR valve has 2 small hoses that appear to connect to the throttle body and/or the thermostat housing
Where do theses hoses go? I can't find anything JTIS... Could someone please post a photo of how these hoses are routed/connected on their car? I'm getting two P1646 DTC faults that may be caused by the hoses not being connected right.
The P1000 fault still remains.

I'm going to need that coolant bleeding procedure too.
Thanks George

 

P1000 means the OBD monitors have not completed. You'd get P1111 if they had. They'll likely be blocked due to the codes you have.

I think the cooling fan should come on if you have the a/c on. Be careful of the circuit as there's a fan module you don't want to damage.

 

Here's the PDF for the bleed procedure.

Ignore step 7 or 8. - The one labeled LHD 3.0v6 petrol cars only.

The 6 cylinder cars have an extra valve to deal with.

The most important parts are - keeping the engine @ specific RPMS, AND making sure the car has good heat @ idle.

BEFORE you do all this. Go get a pot of water on your stove and boil the thermostat (don't let your wife see you ) . If it opens before the water comes to a rolling boil, it's fine, put it back in before you bleed the system.
The car will run better, warm up sooner, and have heat sooner if you have a working thermostat in.

Take care,

George

 

I bled the cooling system and the engine still is overheating. I turned on the a/c to get the cooling fan running and that didn't work either. Could something be wrong with the engine thats causing this?

 

Too soon to say. Perhaps the next thing is to check out the fan circuit, starting with fuses and relays - see the handbook for locations and values.

 

The cooler fan fuse is fine.
The water pump is working
The thermostat is in a housing so the entire housing has to be replaced.
The coolant is circulating.
The cooling fan does not come on.
I think the cooling fan has to come on to keep the engine from overheating at idle.
How do I go about isolating the problem any further?
How do I test the fan to make sure it works?

Kearnice