Look at the electrical diagram. There's a module. Trace the wires from there to the fan. Apply power to pins (from a 12v drill battery or something).

If the thermostat is stuck closed you'll have this problem.

Coolant temp sensor is good, if you get heat on the gauge.

Do you have heat @ idle? There's an aux electric coolant pump on the v8 cars that pushes heat through the cores. If that's broken or doesn't have power, you'll get hot.

Take care,

George

 

More info. There's an 80 amp relay in the trunk fuse box that controls the cooling fan.

See below.

I marked the fuse box with where it should be





Take care,

George

 

George,

I did locate the temp sensor. I don't know how to test it though.

I figured the thermostat was stuck so I removed it a few days ago.
The heater wouldn't work since there's no thermostat, right?
***** The darn thermostat housing (which has the thermostat) costs almost $1k! ... unreal! *****

I hope I can find this aux electric cooling pump.
Can I connect the cooling fan to another 12v car battery or will that damage the fan? It is 12V

Thanks for your guidance. I really appreciate it, mate.

Kearnice

 

Answer these two questions:

1) Do you have heat at idle?
If yes read below. If no, go back put the thermostat in, after testing it. If it opens / closes put the original one back in, if not they are 12 bucks.



What housing are you talking about that is 1k????, the thermostat is individually replaceable, see here:



Once you have a known working thermostat in, BLEED the car AGAIN

If the car can't develop heat at idle without overheating, start looking @ the fan or the coolant temp sensor (which should be fine if you have the gauge working).

Here's the location of the aux water pump:



Take care,

George

 

Fuse 13 (cooling fan). Its in the engine compartment (compartment A.... upper left) and not the luggage compartment (compartment C) as you outlined but I get your drift ! ..... Its not blown

I just learned that some backwashing may need to be required so my project for tonight...out with the radiator I may just leave it out so I can lift the engine and replace the power steering pump too.

Driving this car is a dream....
Fixing this car DIY is a

BUT ITS PAID FOR !!!

 

DOH!! See what happens when you sit in front of 3 computers all day at work, and then come home and get right back in front of one!

Trace power...

Why's the radiator coming out??? Besides clearance to the PS Pump?

Take care

George

 

NO HEAT AT IDLE

The thermostat housing is all of the parts you have listed in this illustration. Not the individual parts.

Thats the same housing that I have.

My thermostat (Item #3) has 4 parts that are held together by the housing. Once the thermostat was removed from the housing, it came apart.



The thermostats listed look like the familiar one piece thermostat. Will they work?? Hmmm...

Since the housing holds the thermostat together, I figured the entire housing needs to be replaced. I will have the dealer show me their replacement thermostat and go from there.

I will test the cooler fan once I remove the radiator

Kearnice

 

I look at several computers a daily for work too so I feel your pain
I just pointed it out in-case someone refers to this thread in the future.

Per JTIS 2003 S-Type - Engine Cooling 303-03A
Cooling System Backflushing...

Summary:

The following must be carried out before the cooling system components are installed:

Heater core Backflushing (I didn't do this. It may be clogged)

Radiator Backflushing (I didn't do this. It may be clogged)
(remove the radiator)

Engine Backflushing (I didn't do this. It may be clogged)

About that PS pump...
Is there a way I can change out that SOB without lifting the engine???...I'm thinking not

 

Ok last post before bed.

Use compressed air if you can to blow out the heater cores. Just disconnect the lines at the DCCV.

That housing bolts together according to the parts diagram. The actual thermostat is typical ford / gm fare, you should be able to reassemble it with a new thermostat.

As far as the power steering pump. You have to raise the motor. Just have to unbolt the left hand mount. I THINK if you have a lift you can loosen and lower the subframe for clearance, but those bolts are a bitch to get loose even with a gorilla sized impact gun.

Autozone at least in my area rents that engine lift bar thing. (Really they let you borrow it, but they take a deposit on your credit card in case you steal it, or break it).

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ino....diyprod3-b2c6


Take care,

George

 

If you put a power feed on the fan, first unplug the module which normally feeds it (so as not to back-feed the module, potentially destroying it). Any roughly 12V fused feed should do, but don't leave it running flat out too long as maybe that doesn't normally happen and besides you'll know instantly whether the fan works.

As George says, the thermostat can be changed in the housing. The housing should not need replacing but if it does you'll be wanting a used part, as you found!

Look up ETM (Engineering Test Mode) to see the ECT or (far better) get an OBD tool to read sensors. See elm327 posts.

 

There's a harness that plugs into the fan. With a couple small alligator clips and a small fan you can use a couple fused leads to power it.

Leave the fan alone until you get the cooling system together and properly bled...

Take care,

George

 

BTW, the 4-part t-stat is typical for the 4.2, and will fall apart on you when removed...just put it back together in the right order and direction, and it'll be fine (if it passes the boiling-water-on-the-stove-test)

Also, you s-type guys are going WAY above and beyond on this (or shall I say these) issue. The OP is very fortunate.

 

I would agree. I am VERY fortunate. You guys are going way above and beyond for me and I deeply appreciate it. The "mechanic" I hired milked me dry before I found this forum. I will pay it forward whenever I can

While removing the radiator I discovered the cooling fan was not connected.
I connected the wires, reassembled, and started the car.
The engine maintained a normal temp for 45 minutes.
I was getting heat inside too.
I thought I had this figured out BUT...
I turned off the heater and the car began to over heat again.
This time I did hear a sound in the fan area, as if its getting signal to/trying to spin but it wasn't.

 

Ok progress...

Did you bleed it again? Sounds like you're on the right track.

Is the thermostat back in the car?

Turning the heat off and having it overheat sounds like it's not properly bled to me...

BTW, is the a/c button illuminated in the center console? My understanding is that these cars run the fan 24/7 regardless if the A/C is selected. Try restarting the car, and running the A/C to test the fan).

Check that 80 amp fuse for the fan too....

Take care,

George

 

Keanice, I have a 2005 S-Type and some how it has become stuck in revearse and I can't get it out. I was told that the cable may have come lose. I can't find any cable from under the car. Is the linkage and cable connection at the top of the transmission gearbox?

 

The linkage is onethe side of the transmission. This is my oil change video but scroll to about 1:10 and I'll show how to tighten it check there and make sure it didnt come loose which is a common problem.
YouTube - oilchange2

 

Update: The problem was the radiator fan... All worked once it was replaced. Sorry for the terribly long time to update.

 

Boy and I thought I had slow internet.


Thanks for the update.

 

Hey no problem! But man it's been over 4 years! What a great memory.
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