Window open/close problem
#1
Window open/close problem
Hi
I have searched this and other forums for an answer but have struggled to 100% confirm exactly what the issue is.
In the video below you can see that when I try to open my window with one touch or a long press, the window opens about 2 inches and stops. Also the same when closing the window too.
All other three windows open as normal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1naR...ature=youtu.be
Please can someone confirm if I do need a new regulator?
Apologies if this has been covered and I haven't been able to find it.
Regards
Bam
I have searched this and other forums for an answer but have struggled to 100% confirm exactly what the issue is.
In the video below you can see that when I try to open my window with one touch or a long press, the window opens about 2 inches and stops. Also the same when closing the window too.
All other three windows open as normal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1naR...ature=youtu.be
Please can someone confirm if I do need a new regulator?
Apologies if this has been covered and I haven't been able to find it.
Regards
Bam
#2
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Bamber (04-28-2017)
#3
Maybe? Is it making any noise compared to the other 3?
Might need to remove the interior door panel to see if the cables are messed up but from my experience yes you need to replace that window regulator.
And again PLEASE tell us what you are working on? How can anybody give you help without your car details? Your problem is a great example of this.
The power windows changed with the 2003 update. They added a safety feature called bounce back. So if anything got in the way of the window it would reverse instead of keep closing. So if you have the later model car this could be part of the problem too?
But we don't know what year your car is so maybe?
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Might need to remove the interior door panel to see if the cables are messed up but from my experience yes you need to replace that window regulator.
And again PLEASE tell us what you are working on? How can anybody give you help without your car details? Your problem is a great example of this.
The power windows changed with the 2003 update. They added a safety feature called bounce back. So if anything got in the way of the window it would reverse instead of keep closing. So if you have the later model car this could be part of the problem too?
But we don't know what year your car is so maybe?
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Bamber (04-28-2017)
#4
Apologies everyone it is a 2006 S-Type 2.7 and I'm not sure of the trim, all I know is that it's very very basic.
I've tried to edit my original post however being a newb I cannot find the edit button.
There also no irregular noise coming from that particular button and the previous owner tells me this happened roughly 2 years ago and they don't know why.
I've tried to edit my original post however being a newb I cannot find the edit button.
There also no irregular noise coming from that particular button and the previous owner tells me this happened roughly 2 years ago and they don't know why.
#5
Hi Bamber.
Just been through this problem on my X350. Exactly as you described and ended up replacing the regulator complete with motor and motor controller. I think it's the motor controller that fails, it's a small printed circuit board that's attached to the motor.
The complete unit was fairly cheap from Ebay and I lubricated everything in sight when replacing it.
BTW even with the unit out of the door but still connected and under no load the old unit was still sticking.
Good luck.
Pete
PS Edit button bottom of this box, right hand side
Just been through this problem on my X350. Exactly as you described and ended up replacing the regulator complete with motor and motor controller. I think it's the motor controller that fails, it's a small printed circuit board that's attached to the motor.
The complete unit was fairly cheap from Ebay and I lubricated everything in sight when replacing it.
BTW even with the unit out of the door but still connected and under no load the old unit was still sticking.
Good luck.
Pete
PS Edit button bottom of this box, right hand side
Last edited by PDMiller; 04-28-2017 at 01:40 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Bamber (04-28-2017)
#6
Hi Bamber.
Just been through this problem on my X350. Exactly as you described and ended up replacing the regulator complete with motor and motor controller. I think it's the motor controller that fails, it's a small printed circuit board that's attached to the motor.
The complete unit was fairly cheap from Ebay and I lubricated everything in sight when replacing it.
BTW even with the unit out of the door but still connected and under no load the old unit was still sticking.
Good luck.
Pete
PS Edit button bottom of this box, right hand side
Just been through this problem on my X350. Exactly as you described and ended up replacing the regulator complete with motor and motor controller. I think it's the motor controller that fails, it's a small printed circuit board that's attached to the motor.
The complete unit was fairly cheap from Ebay and I lubricated everything in sight when replacing it.
BTW even with the unit out of the door but still connected and under no load the old unit was still sticking.
Good luck.
Pete
PS Edit button bottom of this box, right hand side
Thanks buddy!
#7
Hi guys. Thanks for all this information on the window. I got my cover and door panel off tonight. The power window "motor" is working fine, i hear it trying to work when you press the button. The wire is split! Can I restring the wire or do I need a new unit? I'm sure someone has addressed this already but I've spent 45 minutes searching "power window" and can't find anyone talking about the wire that pulls the window up and down.
2004 X350
I've had the car a week today!
2004 X350
I've had the car a week today!
Last edited by Andrew G Kelly; 05-11-2017 at 08:43 PM. Reason: bad sentence structure.
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#8
Yes typical failure. Get a new regulator.
The wire is the drive cable that moves the window and is strung around in a loop. Don't even try to fix the cable or reroute it. It's junk at this point.
Now you have 2 ways of fixing this. As you found the motor almost never fails. So you only need the regulator and NOT the motor. You can buy just the regulator or a complete motor and regulator assembly.
This is a bit tricky here? You have the later S Type with the bounce back windows. So if you get just the regulator you MUST clock the old motor to the new regulator. If you don't the window won't travel all the way and a number of people have posted about this. You don't need to get it exactly clocked as there is a range of adjustment in the motor itself. BUT you must get it close enough so that the motor can adjust.
You will need to reset the window regulator when done to get back the one touch feature that allows the window to go up or down with a single push of the button. This is easy as you just hold the button down until the window stops against the top position.
To avoid all that buy a regulator/motor combination and just install the entire thing. Some people find this easier and quicker to do than messing around getting the old motor installed correctly. Note you still will need to reset the one touch feature as I posted above.
I have done it both ways and it's not very much cheaper to do just the regulator.
One final bit of advice as I came to the S Type from an Lincoln LS. The main reason the regulators break is from lack of use. The rubber windows seals stick to the glass with time and you will start to hear a big POP when you lower the window. This is what starts the breaking of the white plastic pieces on the regulator. You will most likely find broken white plastic in the bottom of the door as it takes a while for it fail completely.
So one suggestion is to operate ALL the windows at least monthly to help stop this sticking problem. Some people have improved on this by cleaning the window seals regularly.
Finally did you break any of the door card push pins? Now is the time to replace them so you don't get any rattles.
Sorry replying to the wrong guy so this is for Bamber.
.
.
.
The wire is the drive cable that moves the window and is strung around in a loop. Don't even try to fix the cable or reroute it. It's junk at this point.
Now you have 2 ways of fixing this. As you found the motor almost never fails. So you only need the regulator and NOT the motor. You can buy just the regulator or a complete motor and regulator assembly.
This is a bit tricky here? You have the later S Type with the bounce back windows. So if you get just the regulator you MUST clock the old motor to the new regulator. If you don't the window won't travel all the way and a number of people have posted about this. You don't need to get it exactly clocked as there is a range of adjustment in the motor itself. BUT you must get it close enough so that the motor can adjust.
You will need to reset the window regulator when done to get back the one touch feature that allows the window to go up or down with a single push of the button. This is easy as you just hold the button down until the window stops against the top position.
To avoid all that buy a regulator/motor combination and just install the entire thing. Some people find this easier and quicker to do than messing around getting the old motor installed correctly. Note you still will need to reset the one touch feature as I posted above.
I have done it both ways and it's not very much cheaper to do just the regulator.
One final bit of advice as I came to the S Type from an Lincoln LS. The main reason the regulators break is from lack of use. The rubber windows seals stick to the glass with time and you will start to hear a big POP when you lower the window. This is what starts the breaking of the white plastic pieces on the regulator. You will most likely find broken white plastic in the bottom of the door as it takes a while for it fail completely.
So one suggestion is to operate ALL the windows at least monthly to help stop this sticking problem. Some people have improved on this by cleaning the window seals regularly.
Finally did you break any of the door card push pins? Now is the time to replace them so you don't get any rattles.
Sorry replying to the wrong guy so this is for Bamber.
.
.
.
Last edited by clubairth1; 05-12-2017 at 08:31 AM.
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (05-14-2017)
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