I have a 2003 S-type V6 Jaguar. I replaced the upper radiator hose with the sensor. Nothing else on the the car was touched. Now i have no gas pedal. The speedometer doesn't pass 10 mph, or 2000 rpm.
I disconnected the battery to re-calibrate the throttle to no avail.
I don't want to waste anymore money when i know iit is something technical not mechanical. I working out of town and cant afford to have it towed to a shop when I can probably informed of the issue.
Please get back with some feed back a.s.a.p.
Thanx

 

Sensor on upper radiator hose would not cause the issue your describing.

 

+1

Probably something was knocked or even the battery is dying.

 

What is the battery voltage across the terminals when checked with a voltmeter?

Is the MIL on, and if so, what DTCs are stored?

 

+1

but... it may be in such distress it can't flag codes. If none, check the OBD monitors and all sensor values for clues.

 

Did you by chance damage or disconnect the throttle position wires? (on the V8 version they are close to the upper hose)

 

OP has a V6

 

That was exactly what the problem was the cable to the throttle sensor was dislodged when i installed the new upper radiator hose. Cost me $ 200 to find that out $ 140 plus towing fee to find out i had a throttle cable unplugged. My jag's guage on the dash, the needle bounces from red to cool. but i smell the radiator. The thermostat has been changed. Any feed back on what could be the cause or where i should look first!!!!!!!????????
2003 V6 S-type

 

The best way to locate coolant leaks is to pressurise the cooling system when cold to 1 bar. If the pressure begins to drop, start looking around the engine compartment for leaks, or traces of dried coolant.

One failure point is the radiator side tank on the RH side when viewed from the driving position as that's where the hot coolant enters.

 

Good call....most of the time something simple after a repair

 

The temp gauge in the dash is "center weighted" and should only move into the red in the case of extreme over-heating. You might want to look into replacing the sending unit on the engine as its data is used by more then the instrument cluster, I believe.

 

One quick question: Is this a new problem, only starting after you recently replaced the upper radiator hose?

If so, these cars are very sensitive about air trapped in the cooling system. Also, the cooling system must be able to build up to normal pressure. If you have a small leak, even if you're not seeing any coolant escaping (such as a very small amount that evaporates quickly), the system operates at reduced pressure and coolant flow is erratic through the many passages. The end result is potential overheating.

It is VERY important to connect a pressure tester and make sure the system will maintain pressure, as previously suggested. Just looking for leaks at idle is NOT sufficient.

Once you know the system is tight, then make sure it is properly bled. There's an official bleeding procedure in the manual but I've been too lazy to follow it. After any cooling system work, I'll first verify my repairs are good with a pressure tester. Then I'll just drive for several cycles, and top off the coolant after each trip. Run the heater on high and keep a close eye on the temperature gauge. Expect some gurgling noise from the heater core until all the air is expelled. The temperature gauge may be erratic and climb slightly above center, but shouldn't do this for very long. If the temp does climb too high, be prepared to pull over and shut off the engine, so don't do this on a busy road during rush hour, etc. Or you can do the official bleeding procedure, but I've never had to.

Also, please keep in the mind the temperature gauge is deliberately misleading. From approximately 180 - 230F, the needle is centered. It's only when the temperature climbs above 230 that the needle moves above center. Use a scanner to read live data for the most accurate information.

Another thing to do is beg, borrow, or steal an infrared thermometer. Aim it at the upper radiator hose (radiator inlet) and make sure the coolant temperature measured there is close to the indication on your scanner. If the problem is indication only, you'll be spinning your wheels troubleshooting an actual overheat problem, and visa versa.