ZF 6HP26 Drained-and-Filled Again This Morning....
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Joined: Aug 2014
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From: New Jersey USA
When searching about the 6HP26, I saw on an Audi site that someone stated that the color coded valve body solenoids should be changed out at 100k miles. Anyone here heard of this?
Last edited by Jimmy 68; Oct 31, 2015 at 01:29 PM. Reason: Spelling
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From: Sunny South Carolina
Nope...
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From: Cape Canaveral USA
I did s search to find what is high temp for the 6HP26 fluid and found it here.. I learned a few more things about this unit like it has carbon friction discs not paper like most.. there is more interesting stuff here
Everything about your ZF 6HP26 transmission issues | BMW Logic7 site
Everything about your ZF 6HP26 transmission issues | BMW Logic7 site
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Phoenix
I changed my ZF fluid about 10K miles ago and used the Amsoil Full Synthetic (product code ATLTP-EA). The 2.5 gallon jug was more than enough to do the job and cost a little over $100 (with shipping).
I was not having any tranny problems, but it seems to run a little smoother now and the annoying "clunk" that sometimes occurred seems to be much less frequent (but not totally gone).
I was not having any tranny problems, but it seems to run a little smoother now and the annoying "clunk" that sometimes occurred seems to be much less frequent (but not totally gone).
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Las Vegas, NV
My fluid change seems to have settled almost all my issues. The 2-1 shift kick completely disappeared. I still get a mild 3-4 shift slip on really cold mornings before the car warms up. I used Mercon SP. I'm concerned the slip might be a valve body or possible clutch issue, but it rarely happens anymore.
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Hazlet Township, NJ
My fluid change seems to have settled almost all my issues. The 2-1 shift kick completely disappeared. I still get a mild 3-4 shift slip on really cold mornings before the car warms up. I used Mercon SP. I'm concerned the slip might be a valve body or possible clutch issue, but it rarely happens anymore.
I have to get the car up on a lift and check the connection on both ends for fluid intrusion. Its hard to see into the TCM pin side but I'm going to get my inspection camera in there.
I also will be updating the TCM software with IDS. Of course as soon as it warms up...
Last edited by abonano; Feb 14, 2016 at 03:18 PM.
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 4,759
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From: Hazlet Township, NJ
I'm struggling with a 3-4 shift issue as well. I did change the fluid and sleeve. My fluid was low initially and wouldn't even engage into 1st gear. I also cleared adaptations and flashed TCM via my WDS but I know there are newer versions of software available via IDS as WDS flash is circa 2006_07. Now she shifts like butter until that 3-4 gear change where I get the gearbox fault.
It feels like a jerking motion and the revs rise up. (Slipping I guess..)
I have to get the car up on a lift and check the connection on both ends for fluid intrusion. Its hard to see into the TCM pin side but I'm going to get my inspection camera in there.
I also will be updating the TCM software with IDS. Of course as soon as it warms up...
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 811
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From: Las Vegas, NV
I'm struggling with a 3-4 shift issue as well. I did change the fluid and sleeve. My fluid was low initially and wouldn't even engage into 1st gear. Now she shifts like butter until 3-4 gear change.
I have to get the car up on a lift and check the connection on both ends for fluid intrusion. Its hard to see into the TCM pin side but I'm going to get my inspection camera in there.
I also will be updating the TCM software with IDS. Of course as soon as it warms up...
I have to get the car up on a lift and check the connection on both ends for fluid intrusion. Its hard to see into the TCM pin side but I'm going to get my inspection camera in there.
I also will be updating the TCM software with IDS. Of course as soon as it warms up...
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 913
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From: Florida
My fluid change seems to have settled almost all my issues. The 2-1 shift kick completely disappeared. I still get a mild 3-4 shift slip on really cold mornings before the car warms up. I used Mercon SP. I'm concerned the slip might be a valve body or possible clutch issue, but it rarely happens anymore.
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Joined: Dec 2016
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From: Tubac AZ
I know . . . I'm just as tired of this one as you. Anyway . . . I need to go back in and make sure this fluid change as correct. I believe I've overfilled it on the advice of someone. After revisiting the Jag.TV video and reading the ZF manufacturers PDF I think starting the engine was all I needed after first fill. Running the J shifter through the gears was not in any info I saw and that's what I did. Geez! I've got what smells like AFT smoke at start up, so I think I'm sucking up fluid. Any comments?
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From: Michigan
Jagstuart, if did not top off the trans fluid with engine running and the vehicle level on jacks, then you have under filled. I suggest you go through the steps again and make sure your car is accessible from underneath to top off the trans fluid with the engine running.
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Joined: Dec 2016
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From: Tubac AZ
mea culpa. i thought i'd not clog up the forum with new a repeated posts about the same old $%^&. just thought this was the most appropriate one to latch onto. car was level and on jacks and i put it through the gears with foot on brake, got back underneath, pulled fill plug, used a laser pointing temp gauge and had pan at approx 40C, bolts at 42C and filled to hole, letting any overage out until it stopped and buttoned it up.
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 4,759
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From: Hazlet Township, NJ
mea culpa. i thought i'd not clog up the forum with new a repeated posts about the same old $%^&. just thought this was the most appropriate one to latch onto. car was level and on jacks and i put it through the gears with foot on brake, got back underneath, pulled fill plug, used a laser pointing temp gauge and had pan at approx 40C, bolts at 42C and filled to hole, letting any overage out until it stopped and buttoned it up.
One, you need to essentially get the tube you're using to fill the trans case in at a 90 degree angle away from the TCM. I find if you stick the fill tube straight in some fluid will be kicked back out.
Second, the trans is considered "full" when you have a trickle of fluid coming out at 40 deg C. If you had no fluid coming out or you allowed it to drain until none came out it is under filled.
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From: Raleigh, NC
This procedure is best performed with two people - one underneath the car doing the dirty work required to pump the ATF into the fill hole and then cap it at the appropriate time, and one sitting in the drivers seat handling the necessary gear shifts while the ATF is being pumped in....
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