Apologies if I've asked before, thought I had but can't find the post!
Wondering about the practicalities of changing a gearbox myself. No pit or hoist available so working on the garage floor.
Thoughts?

 

Many have been done that way, but you are going to need stands to get the car high enough clear the transmission, unless you plan on removing the engine also.

 

You also need some buds (mates for you Brits) as this isn't a one man's job.

I would also say you need youth as this 40 year old is done rolling around under cars.

Mechanical aptitude is also a must.

B

 

That may be one of those "do it once to find out" kind of jobs. I did one about three months ago for a friend on his 99 VDP. The trans came out fine and did a graceful fall to the floor off the jack. Getting it back in was the worst. I spent about an hour and a half trying to get it on the jack under the car alone. I told my wife afterwards about it all and she was not too pleased. I would recommend a friend help if you are into doing it on your own. I don't think i would do another one again but time has a way of forgetting things.

 

Thanks for your thoughts. My corcerns are the height the car will heed to be and then raising/lowering the box, at just under 100kg, oops sorry 220lbs, if it were to slip it could do some serious damage. Maybe I'll have to smile and pay for it to be done after all.

 

I bought a transmission jack a few years ago, and it's almost a necessity for this job. The one I have came from Harbor Freight for under $100, but I don't have a clue if anything similar is available on your side.

 

I'll investigate, thanks for the suggestion.

 

Once the exhaust is out your way, clearance looks fine.The octopus may have to be held by a piece of rope though.

 

In the U.K. Machine Mart sell reasonably priced transmission jacks - normally under the Clarke brand.

 

A few months ago I had my Transmission rebuilt. I had ask them if I could pick up the Catalytic converters as I wanted to install some new O2 sensors. They said they would be glad to install them. Long story short, Every time i went buy the shop, the car was up on the lift with the trans in the car. I know that after they had it back together, they were not happy with the valve body (?) and were replacing it on the car. Question, would it be possible to rebuild the trans without removing it from the car? Just a thought. I don't know that they did this, but if they pulled it it was out rebuilt and back in within a day or two.

 

You can remove the valve bodies, but rebuilding the transmission requires removal of the transmission.

 

In the old days (before old age set in 77) I converted a regular trolley jack into a transmission jack by cutting and welding some angle iron scraps into a cradle to fit the jack and transmission. Still needed two people to get the job done.

 

Going back to the OP question, Yes you can remove and replace the transmission while having the car on Jack stands.

Once the transmission is on the ground on your transmission jack, you will have to further raise the front of the car.
I used a piece of 8x8 wood on the floorjack under the radiator support to raise it. Make sure to chock the rear wheels. Transmission came out via the right side of the car.

It was neccesary to remove exhaust. Hardest part was whacking with a wood block to free the central section at the compression clips on the back mufflers. Oil them ahead of time. Apply heat if neccesary, they will be rusty.

Also remove throttle body in order to acces the four bolts that hold the tranny to the engine that sit uncomfortably underneath it. Bolts were very tight and your sockets will likely slip.
So as not to strip the heads I placed electricial black tape to the inside of the socket and got more traction that way. Undid them from the top.

Dont forget to remove the electrical connector at the rear of the tranny. It has a small plastic guide to replace properly. Good idea to replace with new one and new oring.

Also you will need to undo three bolts holding the rubber donut to the drive shaft. Leave the car in neutral so as to be able to rotate the driveshaft.

Remove the connections for the fluid pipes that go to and from the oil cooler at the radiator. place plastic gloves with tape to keep from leaking.

Do not forget also to remove the three torque converter bolts via the rubber cover access on the engine side of the housing.

Place a size 24mm socket and ratchet on the bolt at the center of the lower pulley at the front of the engine. Turn clockwise to move the driveplate so the bolts apear at the opening.

When reinstaling the Tconvertor may be to far back for the bolts to go on. Insert fingers on the acces port on the transmission side and move the convertor slightly forward to engage.

Feel free to contact me while my brain is still fresh on this one.
Go for it!
Good luck
JM

 

I'm grateful for this advise, could i clarify the bolts to the TQ. Any photo's or diagrams?

 

The converter, if fully seated in the transmission is about 1/4 inch away from the flex plate so if you reach through the transmission "window" at the bottom of the trans and push the TC forward it will be close enough for the bolts to catch.

It will all make sense when you remove the TC bolts, trust me.

 

Finally had a chance to look last night & all worked out well. Ive yet to push the TC away from the transmission, however it is unbolted.

I have a issue with the Transmission Rotary Switch, which although I removed the two 10mm bolts, I cannot get it to release. Secont, I have a single bolt on the bell housing which refuses to break free. Its having another 24 hours of soaking in oil, but i fear this is likely to break in-situ. Any advise, as usual, much appreciated

 

Clarification- you push the TC towards the flex plate when RE-installing, not when removing.

The rotary switch unplugs over by the throttle body, you do not need to remove it.

The bell housing bolts can sometimes be very very tight and "crack" free suddenly like nothing happened- I have had this happen on multiple types of cars.

Maybe give it some taps with a hammer or use an impact?

 

You are a true gent, top trumps car collection & much appreciated advise.

I fear the very very tight bolt has already started to twist, but plenty of penetrating fluid will be applied over the next few days & I will employ your shock treatment & even a little heat (trust the bell housing will take it?)

Kind regards

 

Got there in the end, Bolt did break, enough lef5t to weld on, so not a complete disaster.

Also opened the box & look what I found

Any gook UK Suppliers out there for A Drum?



Found the fault, A drum as suspected....... At least I know where to go from here.

 

There are some reinforced ones for sale. Even whole kits.
I found some on ebay when I was to do my gearbox fix.
Just search for 5HP24 and Jaguar and you will have loads of hits, mostly from US.


But I opted to just change to a second hand ZF box from an XJ8.
They are identical, but usually much cheaper at the scrap yard.


I did find a ZF 5HP24 repair description on the internet.
I put a link here, I hope that is ok
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...r%20Manual.pdf