S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 ) 1999 - 2008 2001 - 2009
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 03:38 PM
  #41  
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A reboot was suggested. Would that be just pulling the negative or pulling both and touching them together? I do not have the radio code so I called 800 4 Jaguar and they supplied it at no charge!
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 06:44 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Gerard Radimaker
A reboot was suggested. Would that be just pulling the negative or pulling both and touching them together? I do not have the radio code so I called 800 4 Jaguar and they supplied it at no charge!
Probably failed CCM/RCCM
 
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 11:01 AM
  #43  
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abonano,
While that could indeed be a possibility I did send the unit to Jeff at Jaguar Climate Control where it was tested and then he installed his upgrade.

My question is - will a hard flash/reboot/touch neg cable to positive have any effect on the CCM or the cooling system in general? It was suggested deep in a couple of threads that when a new CCM [or possibly rebuilt original] is installed/reinstalled a flash should be performed.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 12:04 PM
  #44  
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Have you carried out the checks their site says?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 03:32 PM
  #45  
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jagV8,
I have carried out all the checks with the exception of the full continuity test. I'm hoping to complete the continuity test this weekend. If continuity is present in all locations then I will have to take it to my independent jag specialist who can read the "deep" codes. Perhaps they can find/clear a u or c code.
I was thinking that the reflash [proper name?] might clear a problem but it looks like the procedure will probably have no effect on the climate system. Thoughts?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 04:31 PM
  #46  
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So you command the heat up and down and the voltage at the DCCV moves as expected?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2016 | 07:06 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by JagV8
So you command the heat up and down and the voltage at the DCCV moves as expected?
Was just thinking the same thing. I'd also suggest gently clamping off the heater hose at the DCCV. (Been itching to suggest that...)

Sounds like the same fault has returned. Could be as simple as the new fuses blowing in the reworked control panel, for reasons unknown. The solenoids in the DCCV are spring-loaded open, so if you take away power you get full heat.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2016 | 07:43 AM
  #48  
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You get full heat if each valve's not stuck - as they sometimes are - which gives you whatever heat matches where it's stuck.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 07:40 AM
  #49  
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From the CCM I can control heat on/off. I can also get a variance of around 15 degrees when the air is on. The mechanic that installed the latest DCCV claims that there is 12V present at the DCCV and if the water hose to the DCCV is pinched off we get full air. I was not able to do the continuity checks as we had rain most of the weekend and my 1919 garage does not allow me to get under the vehicle and open the doors or be under it at a 90 degree angle. I'll keep posting when I get further results.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2016 | 01:21 PM
  #50  
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I now have ice cold air. My independent Jaguar specialist found a broken [yellow] wire at a connector in the wiring harness. From the amount of corrosion it appears to have been partially severed for quite some time and finally completely broke through.

Lesson learned - I should have checked power and continuity first before assuming it was the DCCV/CCM/sensors etc.


Thanks to all for your help and suggestions.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2016 | 12:52 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by leaping cat
Check the expansion valve on the firewall when you lose cooling. If it is frozen, you have a faulty temperature sensor at the evaporator. If it is not, DCCV as said above.
I think this is the right answers, took mine to Jag service, and they say the expansion valve issue. Soi think they make a by pass (the tech mention there is a note on jaguar TSB)

Cost me $100 + to make the changes.

Good luck
 
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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 07:55 AM
  #52  
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You can NOT bypass the expansion valve because then you would have no AC.

Pray you have no trouble with the expansion valve because it is buried on the firewall behind the engine. Good thing is unless clogged with debris they are pretty trouble free.
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