This STR has a Nav, and the RCCM is behind the glove box I took out, which seller on ebay can repair this and how was your CCM? The glove box was a bit tricky to put it back, especially that left top screw clip (where my thumb pointing to) just wont go back up to clip between the piece. any tips?

 

 

I just put my glove box back in today... A lot of cuss words seemed to do the trick ... here is the link I used on E-bay... all I know is I sent them my module and they sent me back one that worked... I didn't want to undo the security tamper strip to see what all they did but when I put it back in the car my AC is back to 100%

02 03 04 05 06 07 08 Jaguar s Type x Type Climate Control w Navigation Rebuild | eBay

 

Just an added note?

Do not pay to get the module repaired unless they also add the protection circuitry to prevent it from happening again. That EBay guy does NOT do that.

This module was poorly designed by the factory and this error is the main reason these modules get burned out.

This place really knows how to repair the modules properly. Good instructions on how to remove the different modules too.

Repair & Upgrade - JaguarClimateControl.com
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on 2007 S-type with NAV system, the classic failure of DCCV valve occured during a particularly hot day, letting me drive 250 km open windows when outside 40 deg c.
Changed the DCCV valve, and tought everything is perfect... But during first drive hot air start blowing through passenger vents.
I removed the RCCM, noted a color degradation on the so familiar conductors, but they still fine and very low resistance, to say they are still ok.
I noted 2 two power transistors/switches that have bad solder that seems to practically melt probably in the past before replacing DCCV.
I went over the solder pads with additional tin, and the RCCM work fine.

There were invisible fractures in the original solder pads probably due to device overheating when DCCV failed.

Hope it help..

Update#1 : helped partially. When set to heat a little bit, work 100%. when set to maximum heat, the DCCV open and throw hot air without stop. Only shutting down the car reset it. So I will go over the pcb traces, maybe an unseen break,
and order new BSP 78 power fets for replacement. maybe one is partially damaged and need replacement.

Update #2 : Driving today, everything is 100%. Maybe overnight the RCCM reset and started to work normally.

 

Good job on the repair!

Just watch it as there several things that can and do fail in the RCCM. It seems to depend on how long the car was driven with a bad DCCV how much is burned out.

We have seen everything from just one trace burned out to a completely irreparable module.
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Whilst it does appear that jaguarclimatecontrol.com appear to be the experts in offering a 'fault protection upgrade' surely they are not the only ones on the planet to offer this modification?
I must say though that their website is magnificent and full of great instructions and pictures and they seem to know what they are doing.
Also unless that ebay service can upgrade for future fault protection as well as just the repair, why on earth would you want to go there when these stupid Bosch engine water valves constantly fail? Sure the Jaguar electrical engineers did not build in this protection on the module boards but were they to know at the time that these Bosch valves were going to be so unreliable? I think some of the BMW 5 Series have 2 of them!
Not sure if any of our Oceana members know of anyone local that can do such a repair and upgrade? With international exchange rates, insurance and postage both ways - not a cheap exercise out from Australia.
I will pull out the module over the next few days and see if any physical damage. I have only changed the Bosch DCCV valve at this point - still with the same symptoms of the compressor turning on in the heat after about half an hour of travel and sometimes turning on from the start or just after shutdown and restart.
I will also check with the local wreckers tomorrow as I remember some time ago them quoting me $400 AUD for a similar service but I was not sure if they had worked out a way for the protection upgrade, I somehow doubt it.

 

I see your point about being so far away.

Have you considered adding the circuit protection yourself to the module?
Instructions have been posted and I am sorry that I don't have that info to post right now.

Anybody have them handy?

Might be a better option?
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Does seem that jumping any burnt traces and fitting a glass 2A fuse seems to be the best home fix remedy, but cant seem to find any photos of anyone showing the glass fuse in place so not sure which type of glass fuse to put in.
Anyone have any photos or more details on fuse assembly?

cheers

 

As per photos after accessing RCCM I was disappointed that there was no apparent damage. So back to the drawing board..
Symptoms that appeared from the start of problem: long delay in reaching mid point on the gauge (engine temperature), on cold days temperature gauge actually dropping to quarter (never seen that before either) and compressor not turning on instantly despite touching the Nav screen, compressor will usually engage after 20-30 minutes driving and blows nice and cold.
So just driving with new DCCV until I work out what to do....
Note that a T6x50mm driver required to unscrew module case and if you are down there check nothing is in the duct behind module - found some nice plastic that must have been sucked through outside ducts?!

 

Instead of adding internal fuses inside the control module, what about adding external fuses in the wiring harness?

 

That sure sounds like a bad thermostat.

 

It just depends what (if anything) failed. If it's a silicon part you may see nothing. If a PCB trace you'd usually see it easily.

You can tell if your module works by watching what it does to the signals it outputs (to the DCCV).

 

Thanks, behavior does make it sound like a thermostat issue for sure which I never thought about.
Cleaned contacts and put the module back and touchscreen AC switch working first go, for now...
Any quick advice on what test procedure is or even better what to prepare for/parts to buy to completely change over thermostat and housing?
I have never noticed but is it a plastic housing? (which makes sense to change) And any tips would be appreciated. Does not seem to be much on the forum about it..

cheers,

 

Which engine? Info here on the early 3.0:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...y-page-172680/

 

4.2 SC (S Type R, early)

 

Well for once us STR guys are in luck because one of the few good things Jaguar did is the so called "Cooling Tower"/thermostat housing stuff is all cast Aluminum on the R while it's all crappy plastic on the other engines.

After time this plastic turns into crumbly oatmeal that disintegrates when touched. Many threads about a simple repair costing hundreds of dollars because everything plastic in and around the thermostat falls apart when you try to take it apart.

Changing the thermostat in the R is simple and I don't even drain any coolant anymore. You won't spill much so I just top it up when I am done.
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Thanks, best news I heard all day and explains why in some of the photos I have seen the plastic and some I have seen the alloy.
I have ordered a VW/Audi/Skoda thermostat -BEHR THERMOT-TRONIK TX 30 87D- which has the same dimensions I believe at $18. It comes with a seal as per photo but I am not sure if I can use this and if a gasket of some type is required?

 

Well it's up to you but I bit the bullet and used a Jaguar thermostat for somewhere around the $25 price range.

Yes the thermostat has a seal that looks like an o-ring that goes around the OD. Are you aware of the "jiggle" valve and how it must be orientated?
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Hi Clubairth1, around $25 in the USA but $75 here in Australia; we get screwed big time here, our cars are double the price of yours in the US..2015 XFR new was about $210,000 on road before you start ticking the options..Good STR's still pulling in about $25,000 here.
So we have to be more resourceful here, Jaguar dealers are about $190 per hour labour, slightly less than BMW, Mercedes, Porsche etc..

Changed lots of thermostats and the gaskets in my older Pommy cars but I would have no idea of the 'jiggle' valve or what to do in my STR. I assume the o ring forms the gasket?

cheers