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Thought about it for 2 years, but finally decided to add DRL to the car.
Traffic here is plain bad, and it just might help a bit in being seen, although I still have my doubts.
I know they are a bit low, but I added them behind a slot in the Glanz under-body spoiler, fully reversible if I ever change my mind.
They are rather bright, and not obstructed by their location.
Total costs, USD. 4.50 (!!) for a set of two .... plus a bit of work.
Spent a little time over the weekend pampering my new (to me) '03 XJ8. I bought it some new VDP style pull handles with the chrome inserts and replaced my standard (and damaged) overhead console with a VDP overhead console with the wood grain insert. Sweet! I also repaired my passenger side sunvisor clip that had pulled out of the headliner.
I am also slowly going through all the ground connections on the car and sanding them down and making sure I have good, solid ground connections. I find it interesting that even after all these years, British cars still seem to suffer from poor ground connections. As a result, I have redone the battery terminal connections and the trunk ground strap along with the major engine ground strap that's under the car. Up next is the bulkhead stud connector and the high power module, alternator and starter connections.
The last thing I did was more cosmetic. I repainted the lower pinchweld area underneath the rocker panels. Over time, the black undercoating has worn off and left a very unsightly edge that I see every time I look at the car. I painted it with a nice satin black undercoating and now that edge just disappears. Very Nice!
New Differential pieces- Dana 44 (30 spline) internals ready to be powder coated. The case is already being shot blasted. In the upper part of the pic you can see the new pieces and below you can see the older spicer type carrier and internals from the older 15 HU XJ40/X300 diff.
New bearing kit will be used
Extensive design work was done in order to fit and adapt Dana 44 internals to the 15 HU casing with 30 spline Dana 44 Torsen T2R (like some of the racing Mustangs use)
Great work there Count, looks like you've engineered the weak link out. I must crack on with gathering parts myself as it's the last major job on my R. I may go your route and have adaptors made, what did the parts cost to manufacture?
The T2R is definitely a superior LSD, well done, that took some time and $$$! What are you running for ratios now? To the best of my knowledge the closest ratio to OEM offered in a 44 was a 3.08? I assume some racing is in your future, I would kill for that setup at the track! Awesome stuff man, just awesome
Hi guys, thanks for all the compliments- its taken ages to get just to this stage and I still have to get it built.
Prices for the output shafts/stub shafts (30 spline), companion flange and screw in pinion extension were
$1800
The T2R slipper unit
$700 (I had to use my contacts and go directly to Torsen directly as there isn't a supplier in the USA)
The rebuild kit for the combination of Salisbury/GKN and Dana was
$550
The Yukon gear Dana 44 30spline 3.08 ratio rear end ring and pinion cost just under $400 including shipping and taxes
Sean, If you can get hold of a 15HU I can get some other bits made up. And that goes to anyone too. Although its yet to be tested this is the strongest unit out there- the shafts are hardened to 48 HRC! The steel used is 4340.
I don't understand half of what you're saying, but I'm still extremely jealous.
Would this have the same ratio as the stock XJR diff? I remember looking into Quaiffe LSDs when I blew my old diff, but the replacement diff itself was expensive enough, so I never went all the way. If this has the stock ratio, stronger 15HU gears and is LSD as well, it looks like it may well be worth the expense!
I don't understand half of what you're saying, but I'm still extremely jealous.
Would this have the same ratio as the stock XJR diff? I remember looking into Quaiffe LSDs when I blew my old diff, but the replacement diff itself was expensive enough, so I never went all the way. If this has the stock ratio, stronger 15HU gears and is LSD as well, it looks like it may well be worth the expense!
It's almost exactly the same- less than 6% out in terms of ratio. Stock is 3.06 and mine is 3.08. Tyre differences effecting the rolling radius account for more.
The issue with the quiafe carrier is that it doesn't address the inherent problem with the original 14 HU diff- which isn't man enough for the job.
My solution uses the performance oriented Torsen T2R LSD which has a 4:1 TBR or Torque Biasing Ratio. This means the TORSEN T-2R can deliver up to 85% of available torque to the wheel with traction. At lower levels the unit will behave like a conventional TORSEN T-2. This is particularly useful to drivers who compete in road racing and auto-crossing. Read more about it here:
......Unfortunately- my original 14 HU diff bolt to stub shaft CV joint is jammed on their as the bolt is rounded -so I'm trying to grind it off. I don't need this today!!
Took apart the rear seats, parcel shelf, and 6x9 speaker to tap the speaker leads to an amp and 12" sub in the trunk and dropped the headliner to fix the dreaded sagging issue. I'm still waiting on my subwoofer box to come in so not quite done with that yet but I did finish re-lining headliner and let me tell you, that was a pain in the *** trying to get the material to conform to all the little details and curves of the roof.
Technically yesterday, finished up the DRL wiring, tried to check on a very small A/C leak, re-adjusted the side skirts to make them a bit more visible, and plugged a rear tire after catching a screw.
Then this early morning, washed and polished her before the rain sets in, only need to apply some leather conditioner on the interior, and all little problems are (hopefully) past for a while ...
Yeah, at 4100lbs and the stage II kit on it I'm not chancing it with anything else, too much weight and power to rely on "A/S" tires.
Ha. Unfortunately mine are A/S.. But my car is stock for now, and we have some not-so-nice weather in Illinois. I was just happy that I didn't have to buy a set of tires (tire condition wasn't mentioned in the ad.) No complaints about them so far.. They are very quiet.
Friday evening pile up and drive 3 hours to VT for British Invasion 2016. Saturday AM serpentine belt split in two less than a mile into the trip to show, turn around and find another way to the show! Last night finally get off my a$$ to change belt and drive home 3hrs today trouble free. Come to find the belt that split in two was the longer 2000up belt length. Aye yay yay, all set now.
New dana alternator (figured that it wasn't charging when I got the traction control and ASC inop messages...and the dash display was dim...checked battery, was low, charged up, and was still not working right...new Dana alternator...whine went away...charging full voltage, asc/traction note gone...).
While valeting the car after working on it, noticed that one tire had a slice (not a chip, but an obvious knife-edge slit in the sidewall. Like someone took a razor to it.
Wouldn't you know it, but the 15K-miles since new set of Michelins (MXV-4s) are not made in 225/60-16 size anymore. So...a little over a year later...have to replace the whole set yet again; don't like mixing tread or carcass build on a car. What shoes are folks going with these days that have good ride, QUIET, and are suitable for the car? Thoughts?
Discovered my air conditioning pressure switch (sits above the ABS module) is weeping. Hmm. This is irritating as the car had not long had a top up/refresh when I bought it. New one is £60, and I'm thinking it may be better to buy new rather than used for piece of mind.
DRL
