On my 03 4.2L S-Type, we are trying to pass smog and I am going to replace the Fuel Injectors. The dealer recommended that I try running 3 cans of BG44K cleaner through 3 tanks of fuel as a less expensive option to the injectors. We tried that, and the codes are still showing up.

The question I have is when I go to remove the injector fuel rail, is there anything special I should know about? any parts that are going to fly across the shop, plastic parts that may break, etc.

Thanks in advance!
Doorjok

 

So I pulled the injectors out. Little buggers were in there pretty hard. Unfortunately, I missed a wired connector at the back of the passenger side injector rail. I pulled a little too hard and the 2 wires pulled right out of the connector.

Does anybody have a schematic to show where these wires go to? I am assuming they are a pressure sensor or some other type like that. Also helpful would be how to re-attach or splice or weld the wires back to the connection.

 

Is this what you are looking for?

Link http://jagrepair.com/images/Electric...al%20Guide.pdf

 

Yes, But for the S Type if possible.

 

Gus has the right link now.

 

What was the basis for the dealership diagnosis? Is the MIL on, and if so, what DTCs are stored? Please post them here.

While the vehicle was still in running condition, did anyone bother to check the LTFTs and STFTs to determine why there are excessive emissions?

 

NBCat, I had the car towed to the dealer with about 130k miles on it because of restricted performance. At the time, it would hardly stay on less idle. They diagnosed that it needed coils and plugs as they were factory original. It left the dealership with the check engine still on, however running much better. They recommended I put some mileage on it with good fuel to reset the system and see if the codes clear up. We put about 6k more mileage on the car before taking it back as the check engine light was still on. I had had it checked by a few mechanic friends who said it was a fuel sensing issue and was causing the engine to run rich. I cannot remember the exact codes that came up.

The dealership recommended I change the injectors for $2,400 or run 3 cans of the fuel system cleaner through and see if that works as a less expensive option. Needless to say, that did not work. I figured I could do the injectors myself which is really not too difficult, however now I am stuck with the broken connector.

Broken EFT Sensor connector to Engine Control Module


I pulled the P127 connector off of the leads for the EFT sensor which runs on the right side fuel Rail toward the fire wall. I need to know if anyone know where I can purchase a new female P127 connector. I have been researching them for several hours now and it seems the P127 may be a Jaguar number. (it is noted on Figure 03.5 of the manual Gus posted. Thank you Gus for that BTW)

Also, I purchased an ELM327 OBD II sensor which should be in on Wednesday. I will retest the system once I have the EFT sensor repaired and post what I see.

Thank you again for your help!
Doorjok

 

Have you checked the ford catalogue?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...qwGrlw&cad=rja

 

I think I'd abandon removing the injectors till the codes are read. Can't remember one case of injectors actually being bad vs. much simpler problems. Unfortunately I do remember many cases of misdiagnosis by dealers.

 

+1
they sound good at pocketing your money / throwing parts at it without proper diagnostics

Can't you find an indy who actually knows the cars?

 

Norri,

Thank you for the connector catalogue. Found it and ordered it on Amazon.

JAGV8,

I am looking for a local independent mechanic. Most shops won't touch these cars with a 10 foot pole. The ones that do tend to screw it up more. They don't understand them. When I get a chance, I was going to look into the west coast info the Moderator told me about on the welcome post I did so I can find a reputable local shop.

Thank you for your help.
Doorjok

 

I got the ELM327 OBDII sensor up and the following codes come up.
Current Faults
p0182 - Powertrain - fuel temperature sensor A circuit low input (makes sense since the wire is severed)
P0191 - Powertrain - fuel rail pressure sensor circuit range/performance

Pending Fault
P1000 - Powertrain Engine Control Module DTC -Manufacturer Controlled - internal error, Cause - ECM

 

Use Search / get the free workshop manual - P1 codes are non-generic so the software you're using has it entirely wrong.

Fix that wire. The car cannot run properly till you do.

 

The P1000 is not a fault in the least. This code will be displayed every time the battery is disconnected and will remain until all systems have had an opportunity to self test and set the monitors. P1000 will then be replaced by P1111.

P0182 is probably the temp sensor with the broken wire.

P0191 is probably the actual fault- the pressure sensor.

Again, this points away from faulty injectors.

 

The car has had a check engine light for approx. 18 month now on and off. As previously noted, they recommended the coils and plugs and now the injectors as needing replaced. Now that I have had time to reflect on it, I had the dealer replace the coolant connector on top of the engine 18 months ago. Pretty sure it is the one under the Manifold I have read about here. I have been thinking that if they did not remove the connectors properly when they did that, maybe they messed up the Fuel Sensors causing the faults. Also, 2 out of the 8 injector plugs had tabs broken off. Most of them were missing the plastic heat cover and the wires themselves were exposed.

Not feeling good by any means in regard to the dealer right now.

 

Find an indy or DIY.

 

UPDATE:
Replaced all injectors - No leaks
Replaced the Fuel Temperature Sensor Plug - Working Normally now, cleared OBDII code P0182
Replaced the Fuel Pressure Sensor - Working Normally now, cleared OBDII code P0191
No codes currently showing other than the P1000 (I am assuming from disconnecting the battery).

The car is cranking normally, battery is showing 13.6V, Fuel is getting to the fuel rail as the pressure valve spits when depressed. I can smell fuel coming through the exhaust. However the car will not fire over. Not even a hiccup.

I checked the ignition coil relay R3 in the front power distribution box and the left and right plugs indicate 14.1.

Anything I am forgetting here that needs to be reset or checked to get ignition going? Battery was disconnected during service.

Thanks again for your help.
Doorjok

Grey 2003 S-type, 4.2L V-8 132k miles

 

If the engine has not run since all of this work was done- the codes would not reappear even if the fault was not cured.

The engine might be flooded. Crank it with the gas pedal held to the floor.

 

Check all your plugs.

 

I tried to start it with the gas pedal floored. Several times actually. Still no ignition, not even a hiccup.

The plugs and coils were changed in January 2016, Approx. 3500 miles ago.