my 2001 xjr had recently the head gasket changed. water has found a way into 8th cylinder. unfortunately water also has oxidised a small route into the 8th cylinder of the engine block. I thought blocking the water inlet beneath the oxidised area would keep the water away. the head gasket has no outlet on that spot anyhow. (why not?) I crafted a 2mm piece of alloy that fitted exactly into the water inlet and glued it in. i used a special high temperature epoxid fluid. After driving for about 2 weeks I have the same problem again, hight water consumption 1 liter on 30km, and sometimes missfire on the 8th cylinder (error code P1316, P0308) Actually I´m pretty clueless.

What, if the hole would be finaly closed by welding or soldering ?! Not sure if this is possible without dismantling the engine block.

thank you
frank

 

Have you done a compression check? It sounds like you may have more of an issue as you may fear. Its difficult to tell from the pics, thus I would ask a local indy to give it a look and opinion.
You can tell you had moisture in that cylinder as clean as the piston top is. I have seen a sleeve that didn't show any breaks until it heated up and weeped fluid. Just saying, so as to be sure you check that.

 

That is a composition gasket when the MLS gasket is the
recommended replacement.

The sleeve to block interface seems to be seeping.

The block deck is less than perfect. Looks like someone
scuffed it up with some sandpaper and called it a day.

 

There's a significant amount of corrosion in the water passages. Look at the thermostat pipe sticking up. I don't know if you'll be able to save that engine even with MLS gaskets. At minimum you'd have to have the deck milled at the machine shop. I just don't know if that's possible with the corrosion around the sleeves. You'd be better off getting another engine though.

 

I have the same problem with my head gasket. I was only going to change the tensioners, until i notice the valve seat rings are off...*^&$#%^ .... that was my first reaction. Anyway, when I took the cylinder head on the right side off, the gasket had less ports than the block and head had....
left side of engine... as you all may see the ports ARE rusting.....I'm scared that this thing will be to corrode. and useless engine is something I can not afford. And there is no way i can get rid of my black beauty

left side cylinder head, see all the ports. and yes those are valve seat rings hanging out.

this is the head gasket that was on the left side. This sucks if this thing is blocking all coolant passages

 

I think these "blockages" are intended and the additional holes are for casting. Looking at the cooling flow diagrams I recall that the cooling system is a high flow/low volume where the water goes down the length of the block, up and back along the heads, or the otherway round, there is a description here in one of the training guides.



http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...des/168_sg.pdf

 

+1dsetter on the ports being covered intentionally. I'm not sure but my best guess would be they are part of the casting.

It looks to me like this engine was overheated and it caused the valve seats to drop. You will need some machine work to replace the seats and replace the those valves. Your other option would be to find used heads or a used engine.

 

Hi,

It is the second time that I have to remove the cylinder head, because after 500miles he was eating water again and some firering issues on the
8th cylinder.

I have been inspired by someone on youtube to do the head resurfacing by hand. I didn´t want to go the long way so I tried this option.

I have used a straightedge to measure the engine block and I have realized, it was warped between 7/8 cylinder. Just check the pictures.
I have used a big marbleblock where i have glued water sandpaper on it (adhesive spray) but before that i have straigtedged the block as well to make sure everything is 100% straight. I blocked all oilports with duct tape/cloth rags and used liquid latex with a brush to make it water resistand. I have used a spray bottle with 2% soap in it, every 30-50 strokes I lifted the block and sprayed it sometimes I removed the block and cleaned it with water, after about 300-400 strokes I had to change the sandpaper.

If you are going to use a MLS gasket you have to make sure that the surface is very smooth after you have done the head, otherwise there is a high possibility that it will leak.



Engine is still waiting for the final assembly but I will update asap
how it runs now.

thanks
frank

 

I dunno ... it is common to lap the head and block surface on
Turbo Supra's when they have suffered a gasket failure.

In those instances the usual implement is a thick plate glass
rather than marble, and the job is not finished until the surfaces
are a mirror finish. No marks at all.

 

My suggestin would to do a leak down test after head is reinstalled. Do it before cams are installed so the valves will be closed. Or what I have done for a quick check is I take the hose from my compression tester and hook it up to my air supply. If when you do this you hear air leaking anywhere you still have a problem. If you have a leak listen to where air is leaking and it will help you point to where the problem is.
When I did this when I had problems on my 2000xk8. I pressurized #4 and could hear air coming out the spark plug hole on cylinder #3. I removed the head and the head was warped between cylinder 3 and 4. Had head resurfaced and problem solved.

By doing this you can see if you have a compression problem before you put the engine back together saving you a ton of time from having to disamble the engine again if there is a problem.

In your post you are showing the block being warped. Did you check the head because it will usally warp easier than the block.

 

thanks for the comments, i have checked the head as well and resurfaced it too, but doing the pressure stuff is a good idear that I will try.