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The drop-the-pan method can get messy, yes. And is a little tricky with the bizarre transmission mount arrangement. Bit of a chore.
Suck-out-through the dipstick tube sounds good in terms of ease and cleanliness.
The pan only holds about 4 quarts, though, so you're only replacing about 40% of the fluid. What many do, and what I recommend, is suck out all the fluid from in the pan and replace with new fluid. Drive a couple miles, then repeat the process. Then repeat a 2-3 more times.
One up-side of removing the pan is being about to clean any residual gunk residing in the bottom and replacing the pan gasket if it's drippy
Also when you say suck up the fluid from within the pan, do you mean from the dipstick end or from the pan with it unbolted on the ground?
Any recommendations for a "sucker" ?
Dipstick end.
Google "Fluid Extractor Automotive" for some ideas. The one I use requires an air compressor but a hand pump version will do. Avoid the super bargain basement models...more trouble than they're worth
Also, sorry if we have already covered it but how many litres does she take of Trans fluid?
Is there a particular method when we top it back up....like chug her down the dipstick hole and wait? I understand we normally check trans fluid when she is warm so obviously it expands and all.
Also, sorry if we have already covered it but how many litres does she take of Trans fluid?
What I always do is measure the amount drained (or pumped) out and refill with that amount.
The fluid level must be checked when HOT (not warm) to get a truly accurate reading for the final topping-off. I drive at least 10 miles before checking
By the way, old transmission fluid is an excellent parts cleaner. Slow, but effective.
I keep a 5 gallon pail on hand for soaking those really crusty parts that have years of caked on dirt and grime. Drop the part in the pail, let is soak for a couple days....and that thick layer of crust almost slips right off ! Any that doesn't slide off will be much softer and easier to scrape away
Paul, stop worrying. Buy 4 litres and that will do it and you will have some left over. Bung in 2 and look at the dipstick, then add as required. If it is a bit full, loosen the modulator and it will come out there if it is really too full.! When the lottery win strikes, treat yourself to one of these (best days work I ever did, as my old Man used to say): Moroso 42020: Aluminum Transmission Pan Turbo 400/3L80 | JEGS
Two magnetic drain plugs, plugs in the right place, bigger ATF capacity. Lovely. Beware of lookalikes though, these are welded NOT cast, and will jot shatter like a biscuit if you tap a rock on an Aussie backroad.
Greg
Cheers Greg...you are indeed a wealth of knowledge
I noted in the Haynes manual it states before draining the fluid to undo the vaccum capsule first and do it from there. Is this the capsule they mean?
Of course then it says to continue unbolting the pan etc. but just noted this extra step.
Also in the same said manual it says the amount of fluid you dump will be less than the amount of fluid you would install from dry. It explains this is because the Torque converter holds fluid and does not get drained until the transmission is removed. Just thought it was interesting to note.
Well the only remaining thing is to get this O-ring (#8) and I am set:
I spoke to my local transmission guy and he says he would probably have it but I need to bring down the sample one first. So I either borrow the Mrs car or cut a hole in the bottom and wheel it like Fred Flintstone to the trans mob....
Will partake in this next mission probably early next week. Got to take the Blue Goose to town tomorrow for an overnight stay.
Last edited by paulyling; Jan 24, 2017 at 04:01 AM.
I noted in the Haynes manual it states before draining the fluid to undo the vaccum capsule first and do it from there. Is this the capsule they mean?
That's it. It is called a modulator (yours looks ancient but no matter). It should be connected to a vac tube to get a vac signal from the A bank manifold, cabin end. The vac signal is a proxy for how wide open the throttle is, and therefore the modulator alters the upshift points - assuming the wider open the throttle, the faster you want to accelerate, so the longer it holds the gears before the upchange. Very easy to change, but do check the vac tube is intact, if not, a length of 4mm silicone vacuum tube will do the job nicely and far better than OEM tubing, together with a nice new 90 degree bend and joiner. 14 and 15 on this diagram: Gearbox Governor and Modulator-5.3 Litre-Automatic - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Classic Parts UK
greg
Just took The Blue Goose into the city overnight...back home and then another trip Saturday. Early next week I will dig into this transmission service and report back....
She is a very needy girl but I just want to drive her ha ha ha
Ok guys. Gonna make a start tomorrow morning on the transmission service. I have a list below...please feel free to chip in with any advice or critique:
I pinched some ideas from both the forums and the good ole Haynes manual...well here goes:
Firstly this is the parts for tomorrow. Note this ATF...I have had it for about 1 year. Use it occasionally for my Power Steering top up as she leaks. Have about 3.5 liters left so hope that is enough else I will just duck down the road for more. Is this stuff ok if it has been opened for a while? (Lid closed of course). I know Brake Fluid expires so just thought I'd ask.
Ok the other is the filter kit for the GM400. I still require the O-Ring for the plastic pipe which I will have to take a sample with me to the Transmission bloke.
Ok so here is the list:
NOTE: No collision bracket on mine.
1) Jack the ole girl up from the front and lower her down on the jack stands.
2) According to Haynes I unclamp the Vacuum capsule/modulator off first to drain some fluid from there. (I will do this only if I can access this without taking off the exhaust pipe. If not I will leave it.) Whilst there I will check to make sure the Vac tube is at least in tact.
3) Unbolt all the oil pan bolts except for two at the front and one on the rear.
4) Place container underneath and proceed to remove the rear bolt whilst holding up the pan. Loosen front bolts and tilt downwards...spewing red goo all over me and the floor most likely whilst getting baptized by Lyons, Sparrow Sidecars and the Holy Ghost. Take out bolts and continue to spew.
5) Discard the old cork gasket.
6) Unscrew and remove the oil filter securing bolt, remove the filter and use as frisbee.
7) Take out this plastic pipe and remove o-ring. Go down the road in the other car and source a new o-ring from the transmission mob.
8) Come back and fit new o-ring.
9) Fit new filter and tighten the securing seal.
10) Wipe out the oil plan and clean. Get new cork gasket and stick in place with a little bit of Petroleum jelly.
11) Secure oil pan and fill by dipstick end with 3-4 liters of new DEX III ATF.
Go for a test spin and check the fluid level after she is running at normal engine temps.
BONUS:
I have to fix my speedo whilst I am under there. Suspect Nylon gear which I have at my disposal. Will fit that as well and see if it fixes my dead speedo. Results will be posted here:
Forget that modulator till another time. You have a trans that is changing gears, YES, and there is NO smoke screen from the RH exhaust pipe, CORRECT, soooooo, the modulator is probably a GM Dino, but its working. The exhaust pipe will be in the way to actually extract it from the casing, FACT.
NO Petro Jelly PLEASE. You have RTV, I know that, so smear some on the pan face, sit the gasket in place, smear the top side of the gasket, wipe the trans case face AGAIN, with a solvent soaked rag, and raise the pan assembly into place and hand fit a bolt in each corner, then install the rest, and tighten evenly to JUST OVER finger tight.
Fit your speedo gear, and check the modulator hose, have a BEER.
Now tighten the pan bolts 1/4 turn, NO MORE, and lower the car.
Fill it with trans fluid, that 3.5ltrs will do, and then drive it, about 20kms, pick up another trans fluid supply, then with the engine running check the level. Dont get panicky with the level, I always ran about 1/4" over the full mark. Check it again in a few days, again after about a 15km run.
