Sorry Paul, that's just Grant & I spending your hard earned.

 

Thanks for clarifying that Grant. 10W40 or 15W40 is fine eh? Cool.

Well that looks like a real good price on the 15W40 Clarke. I'll square you up on the day. Thanks a tonne.

 

HA.

Work harder Paul, and we will gladly spend more.

As I said, dont get that fussy with the oil, as long as it is good quality, and Semi Synthetic, and changed regularly, the V12 is one happy camper.

 

Ha ha ha its not all hard earned....

Hence me in my office typing on the forums he he he he...

(love having my own office and not having to share )

 

Oil & filter sitting on my workbench, just waiting for the car.

 

cool bananas!




The question remains now...what amber coolants am I to purchase?:

Beer: ___________

Scotch: __________

 

Spot on Paul, beer & scotch. We can source that on the day. Got to agree with Grant about not getting fussy as long it is good quality(the beer).

Found a Z113(with nut) oil filter today on ebay so I called Repco, they can get them sometimes (only short production numbers a couple of times a year). But they want $68 for them, or $45 on ebay.

Ryco Z113 OIL Filter | eBay

 

wow that is a pricey filter. I guess using the Z133 we'll see how much of a bitch it is to swap out to warrant getting the Z113 (nut job...ha ha ha) next time.

Clarke thanks again bud. Have you tried Crown Gold's yet? Remember we couldnt get them at your place last time. They are bonzer. I will have a look if they are still out else we will pick up amber coolants at your local

My favourite at the moment is James Boag Premium. That Tassie spring water does the trick me thinks.

Not working out of Oz waters ATM so no duty free scotch. I Will have to source the less extensive range.


Oh and Grant, is pre filling that filter necessary? (re: earlier on in the post debate)

Cheers again

 

Crown gold's are are at the local. A lot of Boag's passes through my beer fridge.

Never pre-filled a filter before, but apparently it gives you warm fuzzy feeling.
We can prefill it.

 

ha ha ha

Well Im fine either way (I don't know any better) but maybe we should try it anyway to see if we get a warm fuzzy feeling.....or maybe that will just be the beers....

So sounds like we have all the essentials available in your hood in regards to coolants. Awesome.

 

The plan is coming together.

FORGET that Ryco Z113, that is plain highway robbery. They really are not that bad to change without the nut. Fiddly, yes, thats all.

I prefill them, coz they are right way up, and hold close to a litre of oil. If the Goose cranks a few revs prior to firing up, prefill is not all that precious.

A couple of Crownies BEFORE the filter clears the access significantly.

 

Fiddly is my V6 Jeep, under front of motor with room for only one hand up between subframe and rack. Crownies made that easier.
Afterwards I found out you can drop the oil cooler and reach in and undo it with two hands.

 

Meeting of the Beer and scotch appreciation society at my place tomorrow , and service an XJS before the bbq.

 

Just in case they are a novelty in Oz, a strap wrench is a great tool for the oil filter removal job!

DRAPER 56137 OIL FILTER STRAP WRENCH REMOVAL TOOL 300mm Dia 1/2" & 3/8" SQ DR | eBay

Greg

 

Back in the day when I first started driving, it was fairly common practice when doing an Oil Change, to Flush out the engine beforehand using 'Flushing Oil'

Which was basically (down my way at least) some inexpensive Engine Oil which you ran in the Engine for about 10 minutes, before draining it off and then

refilling with the Oil that you were going to use.

Since I've not heard of anyone doing this recently, I was wondering if anyone still does this, or has it got just too expensive?

The 'Flushing Oil' was for one time use, after which it was disposed of or used for lubricating other stuff.

 

I have used good old ATF since the MK7 days, works a treat for me.

I use 1/2ltr, simply pour it in, let the engine idle for 15 minutes.

DO NOT drive the car.
DO NOT rev the snot out it, just let it idle.

Drink some beer (these 2 are good at that) and simply WAIT.

Shut it down, drain the oil as hot as you can, without burning yourself.

Let it drain, drink more beer, then refill as normal.

I still use that procedure today, never ever had an issue.

 

Beer,oil, beer.

Job done. And front and rear end pass check up.

 

Thanks for all the help Clarke. As always super generous and I learnt a tonne. Slowly building up more confidence as I learn.

Sorry about the cupboard!

 

Heh guys

Well next time I am home my fuel filter will be due for a change as well as my transmission fluid due for a flush.

Just wondering if I am on the right track (going by the previous posts in the thread):

Fuel Filter: Z168 (Ryco number). Pull off the spare tyre in the back to gain access to the XJS fuel fitler....now...do i simply just swap it out? Am I gonna get fuel piddling out? Is there something I have to isolate first?

Transmission flush: Use Synthetic ATF. Jack her up. The collision plate is not installed on my trans. So I undo the bolts and out she gushes? Put plate back on. Top her up from the filler point in the engine bay near the fire wall and brake booster. How much does she drink?


Am I in the ball park? Have I missed anything major?

As always I appreciate all the input.

 

Best to remove any carpet under it first. Start the car, disactivate the fuel pump by removing the feed to it (eg pulling up the collision switch) and the car will stop after a few moments. This means fuel at high pressure will not squirt out from the system. Then with a goodly number of old shirts under the filter, just undo the body fixing and the pipe clips. careful to put the new one in the right way round.


100% correct, though synthetic ATF not essential IMO any decent branded Dextron III compatible ATF will do. The sump is heavy when full of fluid, so best to have help, or support it somehow. New gasket important, or follow Grant's RTV-type gasketless method. The pans can be a sod to seal, so utter cleanliness and no oil on the joints is vital to be leak free. It will take about 3-ish litres from memory, but you can always measure what you remove.


Filling is from the gearbox dipstick hole as you say. Quite hard to get it in in a controllable way, so a tube and funnel is a good plan, but little at a time or it blows back etc etc.


Greg