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Ah, I like the new camera... Better than your potato
Seems like a very smooth example of the V12. Mine ran smooth when cold but when warm and in traffic would wobble a little bit. My problem is probably an ignition issue, which is resolved by now, as I am redoing the ignition system
But nice!
Have you replaced any of the hoses to and from the injector rail yet? They are available in "new" again from SNG. Costly but available Just in case you want to do so (not only do the injector hoses leak but all the other ones too).
Glad you like the New Video (on Page 40 for those who haven't seen it) which was harder to Film than it looks as the Air from the Fan kept trying to blow the Coin over.
Well, well, well, a real V12 running as designed, SWEET.
Me being PICKY, just because I can.
That fuel hose from the RH FPR going TO the fuel rail, looks terrible tight and pulled rather oddly, and that is one hose you simply do NOT want to blow out. It really would ruin your day.
Last edited by Grant Francis; Feb 21, 2017 at 05:26 AM.
Well, well, well, a real V12 running as designed, SWEET.
Me being PICKY, just because I can.
That fuel hose from the RH FPR going TO the fuel rail, look terrible tight and pulled rather oddly, and that is one hose you simply do NOT want to blow out. It really would ruin your day.
You would need to have the hose between the rail and the main fuel supply (sits on the driver's footwell) extended. It would be enough if you had a hydraulic shop simply press on a fitting (use one of your's) and done. Nothing really awkward.
[QUOTE=Daim;1625140]You would need to have the hose between the rail and the main fuel supply (sits on the driver's footwell) extended. QUOTE]
Quite straightforward. I took the WoOz's advice and did the following:
remove flexible from the hardline where it ends in the engine bay under the A bank air cleaner. This is just jubilee clipped onto the hardline barb.
Undo the screw fitting from the rail (the one that runs between the A bank regulator and the rail) the non-rail end of which fitting is swaged into the OEM flexible between the regulator and the rail.
CAREFULLY remove the swaged end from the rail fitting. This reveals a normal barbed fitting
buy a top quality high pressure fuel hose and run it from the hardline to the barbed end you have revealed of the rail screw in fitting.
screw in the fitting and jubilee clip the line onto the fitting.
Remember, there are barbed worm-drive secured joins all over the fuel system. This is just as safe as it was before.
Greg
You would need to have the hose between the rail and the main fuel supply (sits on the driver's footwell) extended. QUOTE]
Quite straightforward. I took the WoOz's advice and did the following:
remove flexible from the hardline where it ends in the engine bay under the A bank air cleaner. This is just jubilee clipped onto the hardline barb.
Undo the screw fitting from the rail (the one that runs between the A bank regulator and the rail) the non-rail end of which fitting is swaged into the OEM flexible between the regulator and the rail.
CAREFULLY remove the swaged end from the rail fitting. This reveals a normal barbed fitting
buy a top quality high pressure fuel hose and run it from the hardline to the barbed end you have revealed of the rail screw in fitting.
screw in the fitting and jubilee clip the line onto the fitting.
Remember, there are barbed worm-drive secured joins all over the fuel system. This is just as safe as it was before.
Greg
I was always told that a jubilee clip wouldn't be sufficient as you would put a punktual pressure on spots not made for it, which is why you use those ferrules!?
Its hard to visualize it at the moment (getting dark!) but I'll have a look in daylight and see what I need from the Hydraulic Shop, where I am going to get my Oil Cooler Hoses.
I was always told that a jubilee clip wouldn't be sufficient as you would put a punktual pressure on spots not made for it, which is why you use those ferrules!?
That is true for the injector/rail ferrules. Not for the supply to the rail, which OEM has jubilee clips on it.
Greg
That is true for the injector/rail ferrules. Not for the supply to the rail, which OEM has jubilee clips on it.
Greg
Erm, no... Look at the picture... They are the same style as the injector rail/injector connections...
They are the same as the rail... All the pipes there are from my '89 fuel injection system. In some cases male and female connectors are screwed together but otherwise they are the same as on the fuel injectors.
No jubilee clips here sir... And on that style of connector, you want a pressed on ferrule and no pipe clamp or jubilee clip.
Wouldn't surprise me if they were changed to that over time. Mine were all with ferrules rather than clips. So are OB-Alex's... As seen in the video
Yesterday, I bought a Pipe Bender in a Yard Sale for £2
Which I thought might come in handy for making some new Oil Cooler Pipes but the reason they only £2 was because they were seized Solid
and the guy I bought it from, said he was unable to get it to work.
They were taking up room in his Shed and he wanted them out of the way.
After much bashing and thumping with a FBH and loads of Penetrating Oil, I finally got the bending arms moving quite freely.
But there are Two Rubber Rollers that are meant to pull the Pipe Round.
One of them is for 1/2 Pipe and the other is for 3/4 and they are bolted into the Bending Arms, where these Rubber Rollers are Seized Solid
because the Arms are made of Alloy and the Bolts that hold them on are made of Steel.
Maybe those Rubber Rollers are not supposed to turn, maybe the Pipe just slides past them as you pull the arms round.
Does anyone know?
I bought these Pipe Benders for £2 at a Yard Sale as they were corroded solid and wouldn't move but I managed to free the arms of with a FBH.
These Rubber Rollers are Solid and no longer revolve and in any event I cannot get the bolts out as they are corroded into the handle and won't come undone.
Were those Rubber Rollers ever meant to Turn, or do they just pull the Pipe down into shape?
I've put a Spanner on the Bolts and whacked them with a FBH but they are Corroded Solid and won't come undone.
Any Ideas?
Last edited by orangeblossom; Feb 22, 2017 at 01:22 AM.
No jubilee clips here sir... And on that style of connector, you want a pressed on ferrule and no pipe clamp or jubilee clip.
Daim
I was talking about the joins between the hardlines from the fuel tank and the flexibles that feed the fuel pressure regulators. There is also a joiner under the A bank airbox. On my car, these were jubilee clipped.
As you say, they could have been changed before I had the car.
Greg.
Daim
I was talking about the joins between the hardlines from the fuel tank and the flexibles that feed the fuel pressure regulators. There is also a joiner under the A bank airbox. On my car, these were jubilee clipped.
As you say, they could have been changed before I had the car.
Greg.
The MAIN connectors between the hard lines (from tank/to tank) are jubilee clipped on mine too.
I thought you were talking about ALL the flexibles... But okay, misunderstanding on my side
All the flexible lines in the boot/trunk and in the engine bay can be renewed DIY simply by using hose of correct rating along with a properly fitted ferrule. They are not swaged but simply pushed on and the ferrules can be had for a matter of a few cents each. Clamps being used on barbs not designed for them can be hazardous to your cars health.
Now I'm even more confused than ever I'll take a look and then I'll get a Photo if I can, to try and establish the kind of clamping arrangement they used on my Car.
But at the moment we are sorting out the Garage, so many drawers and boxes full of junk and bits and pieces that it isn't any wonder that I can never find the stuff I need.
As for some strange reason, it looks as though the Fuel Hose has got melted from the Top but how on earth that could happen I don't know.
Though in the event it decided to split, then it would have been 'game over' the Car would have gone up in flames!
Don't ask me how but some how this Fuel Pipe has melted, or maybe it was that Steel Clip?
Since it needs replacing, at the Speed of light, I've got Two options.
I can either replace it with a New One, or go direct from the Fuel Outlet in the Engine Bay to the Fuel Rail.
This would then effectively cut out the 'A' Bank FPR which was done away with on later Cars (or so I've heard)
Greg was correct, the Fuel Pipe connects to the main Petrol Feed by using a Jubilee Clip, which could not be in a more awkward place to get to tucked under the ABS.
You can just see the Jubilee Clip in the Photo, under the Brake Pipes of the ABS.
You can 'just' see the Jubilee Clip hiding under that thicker pipe, where the Brake Pipes come out of the ABS Master Cylinder Actuator.
In Theory it looks fairly easy: Just go from the Main Fuel Pipe Outlet (where the Jubilee Clip is) and connect it straight to the Fuel Rail (By Passing the FPR on 'A' Bank)
At this point a couple of Questions:
(1) If I remove the Pipe at the Point where the Jubilee Clip is, would I have to cut anything off the end of the Pipe, or would a New Pipe just Push on, to then be re-clipped.
(2) Half way along the Pipe seems to go into Two different Sizes, so what would I do about that? (See Photo)
Half way along the Fuel Pipe, it changes to a different size, what would I do about that?
If the Two different Pipe Sizes are going to cause a problem, then rather than having a Pipe made up that may not be the right size.
For either the Main Fuel Pipe or the Fitting that goes to the Fuel Rail.
Would it be possible to obtain an OEM Pipe, as used on the Later Cars, that go direct from the main Fuel Pipe to the Rail.
Does anyone have the Part Number.
Or I could just buy a New Pipe for the one that seems to have inexplicably melted.
