That "reduction" is no issue when it comes to flow or so... Pressure is pressure...

So just remove the hose you currently have between hard pipe to FPR and at the same time the one from FPR to rail and get a shop to make you a fuel pipe/hose about the length of both together with only the fitting from the rail connector. It MUST be pressed with a ferrule. I would recommend having them crimp it on (the ferrules can be pressed/clamped/crimped). You basically only want the diameter of the smaller pipe. It will also fit on the metal pipe from the pump.

That "reducer" (the connector between both hoses) was the first thing I got rid of... Don't want that and even though I am going as original as possible, it isn't being taken over... That can stay in the bin

 

No, the replacement pipe, one length from here to the fuel rail fitting slips straight on

This fitting is an ID size stepper down. It is not needed if you go straight to the rail and do away with the FPR
I doubt it as the rails are different
Indeed so, that would be the easiest option, but doing away with the A bank FPR is a good idea, in my view (actually the WoOz's view that he explained to me) as it simplifies the system a bit and has no downside.
If you do decide to run a new pipe direct to the rail from the hardline join by the ABS, the you need to recuperate the piece that is on the rail end of the melted hose. Carefully cut through the swage, and you will then reveal the barbed bit of the screw fitting that the line was swaged to. This barbed fitting is the same size as the hardline, and you just screw the fitting into the rail, as it was before, but connect up the new flexible line to the now exposed barb and do up the jubilee clip. Job done. The final bit is to blank off the vac line spigot that the now removed FPR was connected to the the front end of the A bank manifold.
Greg

 

Here a few pictures for you OB just in case you want to make the hose yourself...

Cut the ferrule with a hacksaw... One time each side. Bend it open and you'll see the barbed end:



When removed, clean up the barbs a little bit. If you want to press one on, you can simply buy these cheap ferrule caps at any hydraulic shop. They'll press them on for you too...





Like that you can do them yourself. The hose can't expand under the ferrule so it won't pop off. It can't be overtightend either and is fitted correctly.

You only need one end (the barb in the vice is the one you need) and can simply buy sa 3' of I think it was 8 mm diameter pipe (must be suited for high temperatures! Say between -30 and +120°C. You always want some higher temperature capability, otherwise it can possibly just melt/dry out. The ferrule shown is a cheapy for something like €0,30... I'll be using them again when I do my pipes (next in the pipeline).

 

Hi Greg

Many thanks for explaining that so clearly.

I did have a quick look for the Original Part but its seems to be NLA, so it looks like I will have to make one no matter what and may as well do the

long version to cut out the 'A' Bank FPR in the process.

Just one question, does the Main Fuel Pipe into the Engine Compartment also have a Barb on the end, or is it just a smooth Pipe.

It already looks a PIA to get off with the ABS in the way, although I have had to do worse.

 

Hi Daim

Thanks for those Great Photos (A picture paints a Thousands Words and all that)

Do you think I should go for the Steel Braided Stuff?

 

Hi Grant

Well spotted with the Fuel Hose, you may have just saved my life, I never noticed it before but having had a close look it was frightening.

 

Nah, keep with the rubber. The steel braiding makes it look better but the rubber behind will still go brittle with time and you won't see if it is ready to crack open.

I'll be going rubber (with kevlar/aramid reinforcement) to keep the rubber in my eye... I was thinking as well about the braided stuff but after reading around about it, I said no... For the mentioned reason.

 

Where can I get Kevlar reinforced Petrol Pipe and push on ferrules?

 

ferrules can be had from agricultural/ tractor suppliers. Try Google push on ferrule fuel hose. That get plenty of hits for me but of course they were local to me and not much use to you.

 

OB
The hardline has a barb on it OEM. Just push on the new pipe and a pipeclip. Top notch high pressure (150/200 psi) fuel line can be had from all the normal specialists, Demon Tweeks, Think Automotive,
fuel injection hose
High Pressure Fuel Injection Hose
Fuel Hose Gates 4mm (5/32") Per Metre - Car Builder Solutions - Kit Car Parts and Accessories
I use this sort of clip on these fuel lines, be sure to get the correct size, to JUST fit over the OD of the hose before tightening.
MINI FUEL LINE STAINLESS STEEL JUBILEE HOSE CLIP CLAMP DIESEL PETROL PIPE clamps | eBay
Be sure to get a top quality make, Gates, Sytec, are very good. be sure to know the ID you need, too, by measuring the UN-raised bit of the barbed end the hose is fitting onto.
Greg

 

Hi Daim

Cheers!

That's a good idea!

Much better to be able to keep an eye on the hose.

 

Hi Greg

Cheers!

That 'Sytec' Hose looks the business but do you happen to know what inside diameter I would need.

(Massive problems with the Weather To-day!)

 

8 mm id

 

Hi Daim

Cheers!

8mm sounds about right from what I've been reading.

(your turn next for the Storm! keep Safe it was horrendous!)

 

It had been storming all day yesterday. Totally quiet now again. No damage what so ever outside... Strong trees around here

 

Measure it with calipers if you can OB. It is actually an imperial size, probably 5/16 inch, which is damn nearly 8mm according to my online converter. 3/8 inch would be 9.5mm. Gates make imperial sizes, and one at least of the links I posted earlier quotes imperial sizes.
Greg

 

Hi Greg

Cheers!

I will try and get a Caliper on it but its in the most inaccessible place that you can imagine, so getting the old pipe off and the new one on, doesn't

exactly look like a 'walk in the park'

Would it be such a 'Bonkers' idea to take the (long fuel pipe) off the FPR on 'A' Bank then just change the fitting on the end and screw it straight

onto the Fuel Rail, using a push on Ferrule?

 

If there is enough pipe for a sensible piperun, it would be OK. But I think you will find there is not. Also, I think, repeat think, the ID of the pipe running from the stepper-downer in the flexible part of the supply pipe to the FPR is too small to get on the rail fitting. The reason for the stepper-downer being that the FPR has a smaller spigot on it than the hardline and the rail fitting.
My advice is not to bodge it, but to do a proper job with a good, unstressed piperun from the hardline to the rail that runs roind the end of the A bank cam cover well away from any chafing, hot engine bits etc etc; a bit like this pic shows.
Greg

 

Hi Greg

Cheers!

I will take a look and see how long the pipe is but I may as well get a new piece anyway.

 

That is the advantage with the press on fittings. You can have them crimped onto the hard plumbing of of the injector rail/FPR and use a wider diameter hose.