XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

The "What did you work on today" thread.

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Old May 29, 2017 | 05:03 PM
  #221  
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Default Purely cosmetic fun

I've never been a fan of that factory bronz'ish color.I went with a warm nickel. Classy, not garish. Only took about an hour start to finish.
 
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Old May 29, 2017 | 05:35 PM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by mhminnich
I've never been a fan of that factory bronz'ish color.I went with a warm nickel. Classy, not garish. Only took about an hour start to finish.
Love it!

Can you share details. Did you paint in place or take things apart? What paint did you use?
 
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Old May 29, 2017 | 07:42 PM
  #223  
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It was all painted in place. Lots of cheap aluminum foil to mask of areas I didn't want painted, tape where needed, and a secretive theft of bath towels. They key was taking time to carefully stuff foil in all the nooks and crannies where I didn't want overspray. I only had a couple very minor spots on hose ends to clean up. The paint is Rust-Oleum Universal Advanced formula metallic satin nickel.
 
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Old May 30, 2017 | 02:53 AM
  #224  
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Originally Posted by WAFlowers
Salo, impressive! It will be interesting to see how it lasts.
thanks mate
 
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Old May 30, 2017 | 02:54 AM
  #225  
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Originally Posted by mhminnich
I've never been a fan of that factory bronz'ish color.I went with a warm nickel. Classy, not garish. Only took about an hour start to finish.
looks real nice !
 
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Old May 30, 2017 | 02:58 AM
  #226  
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Originally Posted by anthonyisd3ad
What did you use to create that splitter? My XK8 has a Arden spoiler but that little detail would make it look 100x better
I used this "universal rubber splitter" and cut it to fit



uniervsal front rubber splitter
 
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Old May 30, 2017 | 03:04 AM
  #227  
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Originally Posted by dhog4n
What paint did you use? This is one of many jobs on my list.
I used ordinary car lack paint, just make sure You find a similar color as the leather seats, spray some paint in the rag, fold the rag over, then dip the rag in thinner, then use the rag to and rub it on the seats, be careful that You do not touch any black plastic etc.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 01:58 PM
  #228  
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Default New radiator and lower hose

Replaced the radiator on my '03. There was a small leak around the area where the upper hose connects. Enough to smell, and require a top off every few weeks. Been on the back burner long enough...

Obtained a Nissens Radiator from the rock place a few weeks back. Direct from the search page. Cheap, too, and promised to fit, including the fittings for the transmission cooler.

Took some work to get done. The fan shroud has to come off, as well as all ancillary connections, but the AC system can remain sealed. Took my time, dealt with the mess(es).

Nissens 66701 was sold to me as fitting the '03, but is not a great fit. On the plus side, the overall size is fine, and the pegs fits in the existing holes at the top and bottom. The transmission oil cooler lines also fit correctly, as adapters are provided.

On the negative side, the fan shroud is now pushed backwards because the pegs it mounts on are too thick. There is now a gap all around. As the fans are supposed to suck air through the radiator, this setup allows air to bypass the radiator. None of the foam off the old radiator would fit on the new one.

In addition, there is a vent pipe at the top of the radiator that is not used on the '03, and is closed on the old radiator. It is actually open on this new radiator, so I had to find a capping solution "from the garage" after fluid started coming out during refill.

Last, this radiator is "double finned", meaning the water tubes are covered with thin and flimsy aluminum fins to help dissipate the heat. These fins are so thin, just barely brushing them with the back of your hand bends them, and leaves a new part to look very used by the time to job is done.

Sigh, sucked 50 Jaguarness Points right there. I would not get this part again. Part of me hopes it fails and I can get something else later.

Replaced the lower hose with a Uro part. Hose seemed top quality. Very stiff and thick. A pain to get on, but looks like it will last a while.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 07:48 PM
  #229  
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I took the good advice from other posts, and repaired the power seat module. It was easy to remove, and sure enough I could see where the outer electrical paths were broken! A quick solder job, and now the passenger seat is fully operational. (Got some good wife points on this one)
 
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 08:07 PM
  #230  
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smoked the tail lights and put LED's in the foot wells, map lights & dome light

 
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 06:30 PM
  #231  
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Default How to complain less about your jag repairs...

Try a water pump replacement on a 2.7L Chrysler! One of the stupidest engine designs and packaging solutions you'll ever come across. 3 hours in and halfway to the pump. whoop!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2017 | 01:59 PM
  #232  
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Had a small leak from the right side Norma fitting and also one of the heater hoses. Fixed both, now a new leak has shown up ! Its that "weakest link" theory at work. Just ordered new valley hoses, and octopus hose with all related gaskets. Hope that does the trick. When I sell this car, the new owner will basically have a 1999 vert with all new everything !
 
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Old Jun 3, 2017 | 04:53 PM
  #233  
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After running a bolt through the rear tire last week, and needing to drive the car the next day, I bought two new rear Pirelli's as that is all the local stores had in stock. Today I hand polished the water spotting out of the wheels using Meguiars M105. I still need to pull the wheels off and clean the backside, along with take the black paint off the lug nut holes that the previous owner apparently thought was a good idea to put on there.

 

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Old Jun 3, 2017 | 05:06 PM
  #234  
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Originally Posted by chillyphilly
After running a bolt through the rear tire last week, and needing to drive the car the next day, I bought two new rear Pirelli's as that is all the local stores had in stock. Today I hand polished the water spotting out of the wheels using Meguiars M105. I still need to pull the wheels off and clean the backside, along with take the black paint off the lug nut holes that the previous owner apparently thought was a good idea to put on there.

Any thoughts on how you'll remove the black without harming the chrome?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2017 | 05:20 PM
  #235  
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Paint stripper. The paint comes off with my fingernail, so I think it will do the trick. Chemical>mechanical when it comes to chrome, as long as it is chrome safe.

I don't know who in their right mind would paint them black, unless something ugly is lurking underneath, like peeling chrome. No peeling anywhere else, though.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 07:54 AM
  #236  
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replaced a broken hose, see below, lucky I noted the smell of hot coolant fluid when standing still running idle before she got over heated as the stupid original @@£@ temp gauge was happy in the middle as always.




replaced broken hose
 
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 09:08 AM
  #237  
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Good catch - you were indeed very lucky....
 
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 07:37 PM
  #238  
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Got around to cleaning and dressing the engine bay this afternoon. Slowly getting her cleaned.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2017 | 03:28 PM
  #239  
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Originally Posted by chillyphilly
Got around to cleaning and dressing the engine bay this afternoon. Slowly getting her cleaned.
That looks amazing. Like new! Good job. Any techniques and tips you used you can share?
 
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Old Jun 8, 2017 | 11:08 PM
  #240  
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Thanks!

I started to steam clean the engine bay about a month ago but never finished cleaning it. The majority of the cleaning was with a toothbrush and Meguiars D101 All Purpose Cleaner mixed 10:1. I typically go more natural finish on black plastic but this was the first time I had dressed it and the textured plastic took well, so I used Meguiars D170 Hyper Dressing 2:1 to finish it (natural look is 4:1).

I did remove the top plastic engine cover to make cleaning easier and more thorough on the parts underneath.
 
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