Hello All.

So here goes. I have some preliminary questions just to see if what I have even offers the potential for moving forward.

I have an intact engine and transmission from a 2001 Jag XK8 with 37K miles. The numbers off the engine block indicate it was (I believe) manufactured 01/08/2000 (see pic). The car was wrecked and running when the shell met its end. The engine comes from the same friend that sold me my 2002 XK8 with 198k.

My XK8 2002 was manufactured in 9/01 (the date is taken from the VIN sticker inside of the door jam). It would not be difficult for me to go home today and get the numbers off the engine and transmission,,, should answers i get here suggest that this is possible or that there is a chance this might work.

In you all's experience - should, might, can my 2002 XK8 manufactured in 9/2001 (VIN ending NA25607) take an engine manufactured in 01/2000?

Any suggestions getting me on my research path would be greatly appreciated.

New engine - number near the thermostat housing.


Transmission numbers. Taken in two parts with labels and numbers.




Transmission numbers. Taken in two parts with labels and numbeers.

 

So . . . both early 4.0L V8s with 5HP24 auto boxes? If so, quick answer is yes. Can't see ECM/PCM issues, although you may need/want to reset auto adaptions. Obviously, you will check carefully for t/c guides upgrade. Suggest you also check and replace any cooling system, vac piping, plugs and coils as required. Much easier to do some of these before refit in car.

Cheers,

Ken

 

Yes, and def replace cooling parts (especially the octopus hose) when swapping. Also, make sure (it should) the engine has the VVT solenoids on the TOP of the engine, not the front.

 

Hi... Thanks, this is great news!

Just quickly. Both cars have VVT solenoids on the top front of both cam covers. I am unsure about your distinction between top and front, Dsnyder.

Also, I intend to swap entire engine and transmission without ever separating them. Replacing my complete engine and transmission with the 37k engine and transmission in its entirety...

I have a new set of upper secondary tensioners still in the box that I will change before putting the engine in the car, as well as timing guides, which I just replaced 2 months ago from my old engine.

Cost wise I think dealing with the octopus lines will be tough. We shall see.

So,,, with the info I've provided your REALLY think this is a viable swap?

 

I'll note that I'm no expert here, but this should be pretty straight forward. People swap engines all the time and XK8 parts in question really should be pretty identical.

I think the more complex part may be any paperwork and odometer change that may be required with the DMV :-)

 

ALL AJ27 engines will be a direct swap. X100 or X308, it does not matter.

bob

 

See Bobs answer- same engine direct swap. You could skip the octopus hose and PRAY it doesn't leak right after the swap I suppose. It's just such a pain to replace when the engine is in..

 

Hi again...

People - the assurance I get from the hard worked for insights and experiences from you-all on this forum is invaluable. I have been saying that since day 1! Without it, I would never have had the courage to assume responsibility for this amazing machine. I really really (even with the things I've had to sort out) love this automobile...!

I will move forward... It's going to take some time but soon. I live in NYC so one of the first things to DO - is find a suitable place (a friendly neighbors garage) to do the work in. I was thinking I would pay someone to do it BUT I think I will prep, study, purchase or rent an engine lift and do the work myself. I have already done the job (in my head) 100 times, lol

Again,,, you are much appreciated. Have a GREAT Sunday!

ps... Its $126 bucks, eurospare on parts geek - I think I will get the spider hose. Thanks dsnyder...

Still very open to suggestions and insights (heads up) as I get closer to doing this.

ONE THING - the guy basically gave me this XK8 has a 1990 convert v12 XJS that he'd almost be willing to give me. It needs lots of love (floor boards for example)... I will also ask members of the XJS area but in the mean time,,,, thoughts? Warnings, lol?

Peace!

 

Jon89 and I could really get into that. Sure wish you were closer.
Great project and be sure to change the transmission oil while it's out, it's a bugger once in the car.
Give us a blow by blow or cut by cut (hands) on your progress.

Wayne

 

YESSSSS - the hands...

poor hands, lol

 

No one wants an old xjs AND an old xk8 in the same stable! That is more anguish than mortal man was made to endure.

 

Good on ya for taking this on. I've done engines and gearboxes in my earlier days but they weren't big V8s.

There are many 'while you're in there' things you could do with the motor out of the way, but where do you stop? I'd be tempted to split the trans off and replace the rear crank oil seal.

Do check the state of the trans oil cooler lines, and perhaps replace the main pressure valve.

Good luck!

Mike

 

Speak for yourself! I'd be all over that!

 

I'd say do as many "while it's out of the car" updates and maintenance as you can afford on that "new" engine, like splitting the trans from the engine and replacing the main seals, the octopus hose, chain tensioners, etc. Much easier than needing to do it once it's all installed. Most of those small, critical parts are cheap parts/lots of labor. I once swapped a 5.2L dodge engine into a 2.5L jeep and regretted not doing the oil seals while out of the jeep.

 

consider updating the transmission a-drum to the updated part. this will remove a major future issue. it is not difficult to do and the part is inexpensive.

 

I agree with the while it's out crowd. Based on my experience I'd replace as many hoses/rubber components the budget allows and send the fuel rail/injectors to InjectorRX for rebuild.

Just curious why the swap. Besides mileage is there any issues with your current car?

 

Understood, understood, understood... Thanks everyone!

Please keep those pointers coming! And if possible please provide (or return to provide) as much detail as possible about wise repairs, upgrades and things that should and aught to be considered,,, considering I have this opportunity. LIKE - whats the A-Drum Whitehat AND is it something I can do myself? Willing to send me some info? I will certainly do what I able and can afford to do. Time is kind of on my side here...

And to answer dsd,,, its a good question. The 190k motor runs amazingly well. Couple of things - I have a tapping sound when I drive, an issue I was gearing up to 'fix'. What happened --- in the first weeks I got her, with a dropped valve seat in Cyl8, I changed the drivers side CHead. Fool that I was, I used a long fairly thick philips to run thru both service areas/openings a the bottom of the tyranny to lock the fly wheel. The harmonic balance bolt was extremely tight. What I think happened is that I misshaped the fly wheel by a mm or two, and it taps. I hate it! In looking at images of the bell-housing, there is a little wedged shaped area on the engine side where the flywheel is housed, where the trans and the engine meet, drivers side of trans, a little more than halfway up. It basically 'rubs' there, creating a slight tapping sound (when engaged in gear D or R) with each rotation. When the engine gets to temp and things expand its nearly inaudible - when cold I can hear it clearly. In P and N no sound at all - I'm sick of the sound... And 2. I cannot, not for the life of me, get rid of the P1396 code. VVT Code. I cannot get VVT and Cam to completely retarded. I've taken the front of the engine apart 3 or 4 times, have a new actuator in the box and a guy in Cali who said he would walk me thru it... I just don't think I wanna go there, again... So - a second engine with 37k sounds nice...? HA! with my luck Ill swap it and the replacement will,,, I don't even wanna think it. And 3,,, the things that haven't happened yet but I know are coming, lol

Yes please - keep the suggestions of what I could, should and aughtah do,,, coming

I will do what I can.

 

Jay,
I would make a list of all the items mentioned, (and add motor mounts, subframe mounts, coolant pump), together with anything else you can think of that's easy with the powertrain out of the car.

Work out the cost of each item, and also assign a PITA factor representing difficulty when everything's in place. For example, inside the bellhousing stuff is going to be PITA 10, but maybe low cost parts. I think the A-drum is probably the most expensive at ~$150 or so, and high PITA.

I'd follow the TSB on the A-drum and replace the main pressure valve.

Then you can decide what gets done this time according to your budget - and, as you say, you have time on your side

Mike

 

Easy answer if your budget is unlimited, is to replace everything . . . but practical experience suggests you focus on known wear/perish/fracture/leak issues where engine out access makes replacement far easier. My immediate reply post #2 was not to be "all in", but targeted . . .

• first priority is to check those t/c guides for all updated metal parts;
• check all cooling system, especially w/pump, t/stat, piping, clamps;
• check all vacuum hoses, piping, and clamps;
• replace serpentine belt, plugs and coils as required;
• once fitted, replace trans filter & fluid and reset adaptions.

Best wishes,

Ken

 

The A-Drum contains a set of clutch packs and rides on the main shaft of the transmission. The failure is metal fatigue of the lower edge. Replacing it involves standing the transmission, tail down and removing the bolts surrounding the input shaft. The assembly essentially slides out. Since you are doing this pre-failure, you can reuse your original clutch packs saving money. The bolts must be torqued correctly when you reassemble.

I keep questioning whether it is sensible to replace an engine with low mileage for its age with one that is much closer to needing major wear items replaced. Your original transmission is also lower mileage, however I would still recommend the A-drum replacement if ever the unit is out.

If you are having a particular issue with your engine, perhaps the donor engine could be a source of parts for this and future replacements.