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Not a big job... also got a bike rack to use with it.
Which hitch is that? And which rack are you planning to use/have used with it? I was considering getting a hitch and bike rack setup on mine as well, but it seemed like the hitch required extra trunk straps if used with a bike rack (due to low mounting strength?). If it's solid enough to support a hitch rack, I'd probably consider getting one. A tray rack would be ideal, if the hitch can support that weight.
I did use some straps to keep bike solidly in place(straps to rack, not to trunk), and put foam piece where bike touches arm. All together it feels solid enough.
Last edited by NJ2003XJ8; Jul 2, 2017 at 08:38 PM.
Check the hood pull in the footwell it can fail, have a look at it and the cables running into it - you can get a set of grips on the cable end and pull to release the stuck side.
Any diagrams on getting to it from the foot well, I really hope this can be tackled without drilling the wheel wells etc.
I mean it's cruel irony, I finally get around to upgrading & repairing things & now this rears it's head as a direct result from it.
Any diagrams on getting to it from the foot well, I really hope this can be tackled without drilling the wheel wells etc.
I mean it's cruel irony, I finally get around to upgrading & repairing things & now this rears it's head as a direct result from it.
Can't even get to my ABS module now due to it.
Alas is life lol.
Is the hood pull in the car broken, or did the tabs fall out of their catch under the hood release mechanisms? If the cable fell out under the hood itself you can get to the mechanism through the wheel well by removing the splash guard (at least on the driver's side). Take the splash shield out, shine a light through that small hole in the sheet metal near where the hood catch would be, you should see a spring going to a metal arm. Using a screwdriver, pry that arm towards the back of the car and that should release that side. Not sure if the pass side is the same. Can be a bit tricky to get the right angle, need a small ish but long flathead.
If the lever inside the car broke, you should be able to find a cable nearby and just yank on that with pliers.
Is the hood pull in the car broken, or did the tabs fall out of their catch under the hood release mechanisms? If the cable fell out under the hood itself you can get to the mechanism through the wheel well by removing the splash guard (at least on the driver's side). Take the splash shield out, shine a light through that small hole in the sheet metal near where the hood catch would be, you should see a spring going to a metal arm. Using a screwdriver, pry that arm towards the back of the car and that should release that side. Not sure if the pass side is the same. Can be a bit tricky to get the right angle, need a small ish but long flathead.
If the lever inside the car broke, you should be able to find a cable nearby and just yank on that with pliers.
I checked for the access hole in wheel well today, there was none. I'd like to know how to remove the inside latch & open the hood from pulling the cables if possible.
After I noticed on a friend's car how bad rust can blister the paint once it get going, I cleaned up both corners on my own car.
Left was actually rust free, but on the right there was a haze of brown rust.
Nothing to worry about, but I cleaned it out, and sealed it with some rust converter and touch-up paint, just to get rid of it.
All under the seal, so no damage done.
I've not been on the forum for a few weeks, I've been very busy with work and things. I've not had to do anything with my X308 other than wash her and drive her. That being said I've not driven her that much as I've been working 6 days a week.
I did take a run up to visit my Parents last week, and once I got onto the rural roads I stretched her legs a bit. I know those roads like the back of my hand, I grew up on them. Dropping a 3.2 into sport mode and keeping the revs high really wakes them up and she was flying along.
I might need to go out later on to visit a friend, I might use the Jag if it's not raining. It's not that I'm afraid of getting the car wet, it's dealing with the cover when it's wet LOL
Hood repaired accessed through the fender hole(found w/ proper lighting lol), it was the ball had separated from it's collar in the latch/catch, for now it's held w/ zip ties. I will order a new set-up to have when it decides to go for good.
Edit Question :
Upon getting the hood back open/operable I noticed my new shock mounts' bushings seem to be tightened to where they bulge out. Being every X308 I've ever known has always had the crumbling set, I've never seen how healthy proper ones' should look. Should they be @ ease until stressed or pulled tight as they are. I mean the car's handling much better than before but the bulge draws my eye lol.
Last edited by King Charles; Jul 5, 2017 at 06:51 AM.
Hood repaired accessed through the fender hole(found w/ proper lighting lol), it was the ball had separated from it's collar in the latch/catch, for now it's held w/ zip ties. I will order a new set-up to have when it decides to go for good.
Edit Question :
Upon getting the hood back open/operable I noticed my new shock mounts' bushings seem to be tightened to where they bulge out. Being every X308 I've ever known has always had the crumbling set, I've never seen how healthy proper ones' should look. Should they be @ ease until stressed or pulled tight as they are. I mean the car's handling much better than before but the bulge draws my eye lol.
I don't post in this thread often but I'm excited about something that was done to my car today. I am also embarrassed because this is the first time in probably 9 years I've paid someone to do a repair I'm capable of doing myself, but I have been too busy and too tired from working to muster enough motivation.
I had all of the control arm bushings and ball joints replaced up front. Eight (8) bushings and four (4) ball joints. I also got two new tie rod ends while he was in there. So now, in the last three months, my 2002 XJR has gotten new CATS shocks and upper shock mounts, new sway bar bushings and links, and now all new control arm bushings and ball joints... and new tie rod ends.
The car drove good before, but it feels really sharp and responsive now. I had a lot of fun driving back from town on some curvy back roads. Good times...
Had enough of it and that everything gets worse and worse for no real reason. The TÜV is due in October. I high doubt it'll pass without some major work...
And as it is at the moment, I can't be arsed to put any more cash into it.
Had enough of it and that everything gets worse and worse for no real reason. The TÜV is due in October. I high doubt it'll pass without some major work...
And as it is at the moment, I can't be arsed to put any more cash into it.
I'm not far behind you, my friend. Getting tired of playing whack-a-mole with the VDP. Was leaving the gym yesterday and decided to drive across town to get a smoothie. Out of nowhere, all of a sudden the ABS/Traction/Stability lights come on and ALL the brakes lock up at once, slamming me to a dead stop from 50-60 km/h. Brakes were seized on and couldn't get the damn thing to move. Put the hazards on as I was stuck on a busy road. Cycled the ignition a few times which cleared the computer and released the brakes. Pulled into a parking lot and debated calling a tow. Really should've done this but opted instead to drive home at a slow pace. Grinding and squealing noise coming from underside the beast somewhere. Can't explain the weirdness in the ride ATM..almost like the rear wheels are about to come off the car. Don't even want to speculate as to the cause, but this thing was a sunk cost as of 2 years ago. Thinking it's just about time to cut the cord...
I'm not far behind you, my friend. Getting tired of playing whack-a-mole with the VDP. Was leaving the gym yesterday and decided to drive across town to get a smoothie. Out of nowhere, all of a sudden the ABS/Traction/Stability lights come on and ALL the brakes lock up at once, slamming me to a dead stop from 50-60 km/h. Brakes were seized on and couldn't get the damn thing to move. Put the hazards on as I was stuck on a busy road. Cycled the ignition a few times which cleared the computer and released the brakes. Pulled into a parking lot and debated calling a tow. Really should've done this but opted instead to drive home at a slow pace. Grinding and squealing noise coming from underside the beast somewhere. Can't explain the weirdness in the ride ATM..almost like the rear wheels are about to come off the car. Don't even want to speculate as to the cause, but this thing was a sunk cost as of 2 years ago. Thinking it's just about time to cut the cord...
My car just costs me more and more money... I have really started to hate it...!
))
