Wow, that's not a bad temporary fix.

 

What did you use to push out the dent?
I have a similar, slightly smaller one in exact same place courtesy of some clown in his 4x4
with a bull bar that would do service on a mack truck!!

 

I wouldn't recommend this method, but with the tools I have, I had to make do. I used a jack and placed it under the fender where the dent was, then put the fender under the car to apply force above it, then pumped the jack up until the dent became a little smaller. After that I found a round 10 lb weight plate and mashed it against the inside of the fender to finish it off.

This is just a temporary fix until the actual parts come in.

If it's a small dent, I would try applying heat to the area, then use a suction cup. I'm sure a body shop can take a small dent out inexpensively. You can have a local Paintless Dent Removal shop give you an estimate too.

 

I got home from my week's training at 9pm Friday night after a torturous 6 hour journey home, it was only meant to be 3 hours! Traffic and roads in the UK are awful, it takes ridiculous amounts of time to get anywhere these days. It's even worse when you're in a car you hate that keeps breaking down because it's throwing error codes for it's camshaft position sensor. So on Saturday morning I was very pleased to get my hands on my X308 again after being separated for a week.

Yesterday afternoon I did some work on my car, I'd rented 4 hours on a ramp in a DIY workshop near to me and went through the motions. I was mainly there to fit a replacement exhaust system but carried out a couple of other tasks too. I checked the underside for corrosion and leaks, I've identified a few areas I'll need to address there. I also checked my brakes, wheel bearings and suspension bushes. I think there are one or two sets of bushes which are coming up for replacement, I've already got these in stock however. One other thing I'll want to do, probably next year now is replace all 4 shock absorbers, that will be an expensive game on a CATS equipped car.

Today I'm taking a friend's Jag XF for a tyre replacement as he is away and it needs doing.

S.

 

Took it for its California smog test - passed!

 

King Charles, I believe our Jags have a limited slip rear end. My 2001 Ford F250 has a limited slip also and, from new, when I turn left, out of my driveway (up-hill), sometimes, it makes a noise very similar to the one in your video. The 1st time I heard it, I took it to my Ford mechanic and he said that the slipping clutch plates in the rear diff, can make that noise and not to worry. The truck has 252k on it now, original differential.
But, of course, it could be something different and a disaster is looming....just kidding.
Clive

 

It's going back to the shop in the AM, this is my 3rd X308 & I've never dealt w/ that noise before, so it has to go lol.

 

 

 

Update :

Figures, I got a special appt. this morning & low & behold the car's as silent as a church mouse, go figure lol.

It finally started to howl he's going to add some friction modifier to the differential oil wed.

​​​​​​​The tech. today said something very similar, he's going to add a supplement to the rear gear oil, but other than that he thinks it's a design issue.

 

Replaced steering transfer pipes per TSB 211-05 to try and solve a weird RPM-dependent howling I've been getting. No luck, noise is about the same as before. At the very least, my power steering seems to be ever slightly smoother, although it was pretty good before. Time to start tracking down other possible sources, and maybe dust off the chassis ears...

 

I also asked about the handbrake etc. the tech. said when he had the wheels off for the bearing job he adjust & cleaned off corrosion so the brakes' are out of the equation.

 

I put my X308 XJR away before winter hits and have started to drive/renovate my Cummins Ram.

The Powersteering pump is leaking quite badly (I checked and saw the fluid coming out of the ZF pump casing split). The pump is now becoming noisy too. I'm looking into rebuilt replacements but I probably wont be tackling this until next spring.

I'm going to miss the Jag over the winter- its been an incredible year, and I've done some great things to the Jag and its proven itself very dependable and helped me out continually as the Cadillac Escalade has continued to let me down.

 

Took the car to a vintage Jaguar dealer/restorer he put chassis ears on & only thing he discovered was a slight whine from the transmission(this has been there every since the rebuild & doesn't alarm me). I had to drive the car 3 hours to this shop & in all that time not one moan nor howl from the rear ?! lol this car's definitely a female. Good thing is that all my differential bearings are quiet & in good order. If the coming friction modifier additive doesn't solve my sporadic rear end howl, my last option in to start w/ fresh rear gear oil installed @ a shop. Even though this current oil has less than 3,000 miles on it, it was done by a former associate & not a true professional, so there's that variable. I went back over my work notes on this car & the rear end noise did surface shortly after my rear differential fluid change

I think I'm safe to pull the trigger on new feet for the ole girl. Refinished Pentas w/ either Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06 or Vogue Signature V Ultra High Performance. The Vogue tires emerged as a unseen dark horse in my tire candidates, I drove a 2002 XJR @ the aforementioned restoration garage & those tires were really impressive. I haven't heard the name Vogue thrown around concerning tires in years, so I'll see what the latest research gives me on them.

Also getting an estimate for a full paint job in the AM, although the previous paintwork I had done is cohesive, it still registers to my eye, therefor it must go lol.

The car's currently @ approximately 94% completed for me, w/ the upgraded wheels & full respray I will be about as close to 100% as a non garage queen/ oft-driven 18 year old X308 can be lol.

 

Collected microswitched fob from post office. Whenever I leave the car for 2 or more days, whether battery connected or disconnected, the locking and unlocking stops working and seems to need days of trying to ‘re-learn’, seemingly dependant on how long since last drive. Electronically this seems to make no sense and I’d been toying with the idea of getting a replacement security locking control module. Sometimes the boot unlock takes a while to re-learn as well, though this always comes back before the unlocking and last comes the locking.

Imagine my joy when, having had to lock the car with the key, the microswitched fob immediately unlocked, and locked the car. This irritation had made me unreasonably irritated and its £15 solution has made me unreasonably pleased.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-JA...72.m2749.l2649

 

Having read the thread on fitting a Double Din head unit recently, I had an 7" screen Alpine NE-W987D unit sitting on the shelf as I was told it couldn't be done, so I decided to have a go at fitting it, the job shown on the thread was probably the best/neatest job I've ever seen! The screen size on my unit is the same as the one fitted in on the thread, the only mod required there was to cut the plastic radio surround to allow it to go in. But I think the 'body' behind the screen of my head unit must be bigger as it simply wouldn't go in, even with the radio surround and heater controls removed altogether it still wouldn't go in? The body of my unit is slightly larger (couple of mm) than its 7" screen? So now I have the dash out while I make some mods to the bottom of the heater blower ducting to allow enough room for the D/Din to fit, then there's the electrics to sort.. why isn't anything ever easy on these cars?
The only thing stopping it fitting now is the Airbag Module location (normally below the radio)... can it be moved?

 

Yes, you can move the airbag module back (towards the engine).
There are a few people who have put full double din units in their cars by doing this, and cutting into the metal support above the radio as well.

In the most recent posts about this, the headunit used was a Joying 6" screen which attaches to a single din body. This is why it was easier to fit, as it basically works the same way the factory one does.
It might be worth looking into buying on of those, unless you're determined to use the Alpine unit you already have

 

Wishing I'd never started this now, got it all back together with enough room to put the system in. Thought that before I put the system in I would first check everything else was working... ignition all came on, but nothing when I turn the key to start, no main or dipped lights when I turn them on, no wipers, windows won't work etc. Lost the light so will check tomorrow when I've got daylight, must be some connections not done up somewhere? Found one not connected but have no idea where it goes!

 

I guess "project finished" ... Replaced the stock headrests with the wider Daimler ones.
the To-Do list is getting shorter and shorter ...