When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Had new Engine Cradle V-block bushings fitted. I wasn't sure that there was anything seriously wrong with the old ones, but figuring 17 years in a California climate it wouldn't hurt if they were replaced. I purchased them from Merriam Jag Parts for $80.00 per side, and also replaced the steering rack bushings while we were there ($20.00 each).
Because of the lack of a lift, and how much I hate crawling under a car on jack stands, I took it to my local Jag guy to be done. And watching it being done I was glad he was doing it with the aid of a lift, and not me crawling around under the car.
The old ones showed typical signs of deterioration/age, but no separation, but the new ones needed the engine cradle to be lowered an additional 3/8"-1/2" to be able to squeeze them in, so another indication of some "wear" on the old ones.
Do I notice any difference, er, I think I do, it feels more "solid", "firmer", I think.
But the bottom line is I feel they are an item that can suffer from age, and I feel better knowing they are replaced.
I think that completes my check list of things-to-be-done on the car.
Finally got the driveshaft center bearing replaced... an hour or so with a pickle fork, punch, and BFH managed to finally knock it loose. The new bearing went on with with about 4 taps from the same hammer. Really learned from this job how much it's worth using power tools, pretty sore from loosening the driveshaft by hand and not using my clunky electric impact gun. Used the gun on reinstall and it went so much quicker, just need some pivoting impact attachments to make it more usable.
Replacing that bearing and one of the jurid's seemed to cure my weird vibration that felt a lot like flat-spotting. Weird since the old bearing didn't look to be that bad, it was a bit sagged but still soft, and only the slightest bit of surface dry rot showing. Oh well, I'll let the car sit for at least a day and see if there's still vibration afterwards.
Also drove around a bit with the rear mufflers off since I broke a clamp, man that really opens it up. Still quiet at warm idle, but gives a nice growl under acceleration (with a bit of booming sometimes). Didn't like the exhaust dumping straight onto the tires though, so I'll again avoid driving much until my new clamp comes in. Making some straight pipes to replace the rear mufflers is now a much more tempting, and not too involved, project for the future.
Have loaded up my truck with the last of the parts from the XJR-100 series. Now there's only 'bones and feathers' left. Got the wheels and brakes as well as the interior and engine now. The engine is shot but I bought it for the heads- The AJ27 heads will provide a good basis to surpass the port/chamber achievements of the AJ37 (The Aston Martin engine project I worked on). The AJ27 doesn't have the stupid offset 'swirl ports' of the AJ33 4.2. Now I have early big Brembo brakes from an R1 (darker grey) and these later ones (silver). I'll have to decide which suits my car better.
Last edited by Count Iblis; 06-27-2018 at 08:45 AM.
Bought a set of later instruments from the XF and later XK. I much prefer the font of those dials to the stock X308. Looking into implementing the later font into my X308 gauges. Looking at a 'fancier' dash clock too.
Had an alignment check done on the VDP yesterday, the car tended to "wander" a little, especially when there was a side wind, and so took it to my local, very reputable, alignment center. They adjusted the caster, and toe-in/out, and now the car is so much nicer to drive, don't have to constantly "adjust", a much more relaxed drive.
I cannot describe how much I enjoy this car, beautiful classic lines, smooth driving experience, excellent handling, excellent power, luxurious interior, and all for such an economic price.
why not have some dials custom made? I did that with my Volvo C30. I wanted a Mustang inspired style instrument cluster with a broen background (to match the brown interior parts). Cost like €120 and they were totally custom made.
One of my chrome asteroids has been out of balance for a few years and caused the car to shake between 50-60 MPH. No one has been able to balance it. I looked for a reasonably priced wheel but they were all too expensive. So I contacted Green’s OK Tire in North Hollywood, CA and they found a wheel for me, chromed it, and mailed it to me in Washington. I’ve had my Jaguar wheels chromed by Green’s a lot since the 80’s and they ALWAYS do amazing work. So my car is finally smooth on the freeway!
When I took the car into Les Schwab Tire to have the wheel put on, I backed into a parking space and then waited for them to work on the car. One of their mechanics sideswiped my car pulling out of the next parking spot and ripped my front bumper. I was thankful I had backed in because my rear bumper was perfect but my front bumper needed some paint work. Les Schwab was great to work with and sent me a check for the $2500 repair bill within about a week. Now I have a new bumper with fresh paint. Since my front bumper is now perfect, I got it wrapped with a clear bra. It turned out great. But $300 ugh...
And yesterday, I installed new Sylvania headlight bulbs that are whiter and brighter than stock. I haven’t driven it at night to see the difference, but I can already tell they’re brighter from just inside the garage.
Finally tracked down new rear output shafts, still in sealed Jaguar factory boxing ! So my noisy rear end's days are numbered ! Tranny rebuilt,wheel bearings,shocks,bushings replaced & now the rear diff. output shafts, I think we'll be sitting pretty good for the foreseeable future.
Another thing I dislike about the x308 is the very plain looking dash clock. With my dash vent plastic cracked such that the wood veneer kept dislodging itself I got hold of new vents. The new ones were actually second hand. They were cracked too but minimially so. So i had to plastic weld:
Then I went about adressing the boring clock face issue with some modifications and amendments:
why not have some dials custom made? I did that with my Volvo C30. I wanted a Mustang inspired style instrument cluster with a broen background (to match the brown interior parts). Cost like €120 and they were totally custom made.
AZ 1999 bloke- no they wont directly fit in.
Daim kraut bloke- That's what I'm doing. If I don't do them myself.
Chassis rust right
Removed the subframe and found a significant amount of rust, which seems to start at the contact points with the vee mounts and the original spot welds to the underside. Thanks to others who posted a lot of useful info about this. Jaguar x308 front subframe seems to weigh around 70kg if anyone wants to know. Easy enough to manhandle on your own with the jack.
Went out last night after work to replace the driver's rear outer halfshaft u-joint. A little annoying after having dislocated my knee on Monday so that made moving a little more tender, and doing it on the driveway.. But about two hours, start to finish. Put it all back together, and at first, hey, hub feels solid. And then went to tighten up the caliper and saw movement. From what I can tell, it's the diff output shaft bearing. Not sure I'm in the capacity to do that as a DIY, so a little annoyed at that.
I replaced the ABS module with a rebuilt to finally rid the dash of ABS light and Trac. not available. Replaced the clamp on the vertical coolant hose to the coolant surge tank.
If they are beaten up on the outside, they can be polished, but I don't think it is a DIY job.
If they have the haze on the inside, I flushed mine with alcohol (our Russian x308 owner used Vodka I remember ...), then blow them clean.
Be careful with the inside, the plating is super thin, easy to damage.
Finally reinstalled the rear sway bar into the car. I had removed it a couple years ago after blowing through links, I had a moment of annoyance and just yanked it all off. I haven't gotten around to ordering GOOD rear links but I've had new "bleh" ones in the trunk for a while so I put those on. Also realized that it's NOT my output shaft bearing causing my wheel shifting. Because the third time is the charm - first I thought it was the outer u-joint since that's what the passenger side was. Replaced it, and nope. Then thought it was the bearing. Nope. With the car jacked up and me in a better position, it's actually the bearings for the pivot pin on the carrier. Who knew. So time to get that ordered, and see how bad that goes. Gotta be easier than the output shaft bearing would've been. Guess I can re-sell the parts I ordered.
06-20-2018, 11:43 AM
