I have read that aftermarket mounts are prone to alignment problems, but OEM Jag parts align fine.


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Broke down, and figured that with 5 hours before I needed to use the car again, I'd give the bearings a whirl. As cheap as they are, really, it was silly not to at least get them in there. They're half-assed at the moment - I found no shims at all when I removed everything, and as such, had none to put back IN, so there's still a little more play than I would like, and I'm sure it'll still rattle over bumps, but it took 95% of the movement away from it. And with good reason, here's a screen cap of the video I took when I was doing it,



Can't imagine why my wheel was jerking all over the place with any bump. Can you?

If the weather holds out, tomorrow will likely be cleaning day. Washing, and a wax, and clean the engine bay a bit.

 

Whilst taking out the front subframe so as to do a bit of welding, I thought I might as well put in new main mounts, the round ones with the offset hole. Mine were slightly split.
Getting the old ones out wasn't that bad but felt tortuous having never done it before. I used a ball joint clamp to do it. It had more than enough pushing force but the fittings weren't quite perfect, but that's life. Retaining the old metal surround helped a lot for what was coming, unbeknown to me!
So I pushed the new ones in as per, only to find that the vee mounts were about an inch away from where they had to be. I didn't think a pry bar was going to do any good without causing undue stresses, so I dropped the subframe again, pushed out the new ones (utilising the old metal surround) , & reinserted them in the opposite direction, which cured the problem thankfully!
I have to say, leaving in the steering rack and not disconnecting it does sound worth a try next time, although the bolts on mine were quite a pain. The u joint connection to the steering column was really hard work and I'd avoid doing that again in a rush.
Not quite the breeze I hoped for :-)



Front subframe mount x308. Originals with a split


My first attempt at insertion, copying the jaguar prescribed alignment of the front subframe mounts

The final alignment below , which cured the vee mount problem


Jaguar subframe alignment as per the pdf manual



Getting the alignment of the round mounts wrong, threw out the alignment of the vee mounts by an inch Solution was to rotate the mounts as per the other pix. Be warned!

 

This isn't quite today, as it was actually on the 12th of May... But I edited the video today...

 

New


Old

 

I changed the Lambda sensors for Denso 234-4798 (downstream) and 234-9016 upstream. Unfortunately I'm getting a MIL light and heater circuits non-op. I wonder if I should have gone for the 234-9029s?

I think I was sold duds.

I changed my wheels for powder coated dark grey metallic Asteroids.







A bit darker than I was hoping, but it beats corroded chrome asteroids. Michelin Super Sports continue to be great

 

Count those look nice
I'd like a set like that

 

I'm new to the forum and been looking at a lot of solutions, which have caused me to reconsider why I own this car I like it, but not in love with it.
I got a 2000 XJ8 as payment for work I did for a friend of a friend. My friend said it was a good car when running (he's been on rides in it), but after a tranny swap, all sorts of errors popped up. It did sit for about 8 months before I got it.
My son thought he could work on it and clear the many codes, but alas, we have yet to get any to disappear
Here are the errors we've been trying to clear:
ASC NOT AVAILABLE
HANDBRAKE ON (it's not)
GEARBOX FAULT
INCORRECT PART FITTED
HIGH GEARBOX TEMPERATURE
PASSENGER DOOR OPEN (it's not, must be a lock issue)
LOW BRAKE FLUID (it's not, but the brakes sound like they need work)
FAILSAFE ENGINE MODE (still drives ok, so I still cruise around, but not in traffic)
We did put in a new battery as the other wouldn't hold a charge, and I got 6 CDs out of the trunk (score!). We also did new plugs and coil packs and it does run smoother, along with an oil change. But no changes on the errors.
We have NO Jaguar mechanics where I live, so regretting taking the XJ8, but it does drive smooth (for the most part).
There is a mechanic who has a error code clearer (so he says, so it goes in to him this week). If he can't do anything with the errors, it's a freebie, so I got that going for me.
I keep seeing something about a hard reset, but yet to find the procedure, though I see versions of what seems like a hard reset. What is the definitive hard reset? And will it even clear those errors I have so I can start fresh?
I see everyone is so very willing to assist with all the problems out there, and I'll gladly take suggestions
I did download a CAN Failure TB, and looking at that.
Appreciate any input, and if I need to copy this elsewhere for assistance, just let me know!
Thanks!
Kevin aka AKJaguar

 

Short version? No. It might clear a few of them, but some of them like the low brake fluid, and brake warning light, are going to be set until whatever is causing them is cleared. I have the same on mine and still am researching causes - in my case, I know the fluid is fine, I know the handbrake is off, etc, and the car stops just fine. Your failsafe might clear for a little bit, and the gearbox temp will likely clear until you drive it again. You have a long list to go, and without an indy or dealer with proper diagnostics as to what's causing them, it's going to be a chore to whittle them down. Even a generic code scanner that can read some codes might at least give you a little more insight into some though

 

Kevin, maybe the "tranny" swap, was not correctly done causing the 3 transmission errors. With all the sensors involved within the transmission system, unless every "I" was dotted and "T" crossed, I think error codes are very likely. A hard reset may clear some of the codes but will likely return unless the areas of problems are thoroughly investigated.
My understanding of a hard reset is disconnecting the negative cable from the battery terminal and touching it to the positive terminal for a few seconds.
good luck with your project
Clive

 

I bought my 2000 XJ8 about a month ago. It had a dead miss (#8 coil failure) and a slipping trans. I replaced the coil and had a rebuilt trans installed. Ever since the trans replacement it seemed under powered to me? I put a jack handle on the gas pedal and the rubber handle end on the seat front then powered the seat forward to completely depress the pedal. I found it wasn't going to full throttle! Removed the cable bracket from the throttle body and by rotating the bracket around the cable I was able to get a shorter distance to the throttle pivot. Bottom line, different car to drive! Now I have part throttle kick down and much more responsive acceleration. I recommend everyone confirm full throttle function. I'm sure the trans shop never altered this adjustment so it's been this way for years.

 

Why do the brakes do that? Mine started and need to replace them as well. How much were those rotors?

 

I think the gt rotors were $135 each and the gt pads were $70 from autozone.
as for why, not sure what you're asking but the previous owner didn't change the pads in time and they were metal on metal

 

Spent several evenings attempting to unscrew those torx bolts that retain the radiator via the fibreglass plastic cowl. Practically every single one had rusted itself into the threaded mount. The torx heads weren't up to the job so I had to use an extractor set. Took forever!


Rusted in Torx head bolts above radiator.

 

Replaced the brake pedal switch to hopefully rid myself of the Failsafe mode message that started creeping up again. I had sprayed my other switch which calmed it for a week, so I figured it was bad. And... nope. Came back on again today on the way in, with some other codes out of nowhere, a P0101 and a.. 174 or 175, I forget now. On top of the P0455 that I still haven't tracked down. Every time I start to think I'm getting ahead, it's five steps back. Seriously ready to get out of this car at this point, now that I have a front-runner in mind for a replacement. Rather park this and take my sweet time replacing things than trying to do it while needing to drive it every day.

 

2 weeks ago I found an 02 VandenPlas at a local wrecking yard. It provided my car with a labeled rebuilt ABS module and 4 good coils. Went back a week ago and got the VandenPlas trunk badge and center wood A/C vent surround. I also got the wood veneer trim surrounding the front dome/map light console. The center dash wood simply popped off and was easily swapped. The roof map light wood required removal of the little console, bending back four tabs and gently prying it off the console (it's glued on) Then original grey one had no tabs and was only glued on. I'm going to attempt to install the 02 brake switch next week. I've replaced the nylock nut with a regular nut so it will spin easily on the retaining bolt to enable me to more easily position the switch. I'll then install the nylock nut on it as well once secure and confirmed fixed.

 

Strangely it seems that installing the new radiator had prompted one of the coil packs to start misfiring. Thankfully, I'm getting used to these occurrences and had a secondhand one from ebay to hand. I always keep one in the boot nowadays as trying to drive a wobbling v8 just isn't my idea of fun anymore. Just need to get it through the mot despite the flashing abs/trac message that's started up with a vengeance of late. Great timing!
If that gets sorted I'll be a much happier man :-)

 

Looks like my Throttle Body issues are forcing my hand to get it rebuilt a lot sooner than later now. Took a turn for the worse as of last night where now it's tripping the P1121 any time I take my foot off the accelerator at all. If I'm on the highway, I can at least put the cruise on to maintain speed as long as I rest my foot down on the pedal just enough. But that's no way to live, really. I had hoped to get another month out of it but having to drive with my finger on the Clear Codes button on Torque all day, is not going to be very practical. Not how I wanted to get the week started, but oh well. I even tried to appease the car gods with a nice wash this morning. Still nothing.

 

Hi chris-jag, sorry about the belated reply. No, no problem at all as I had read about this being a potential problem. So before removing the old ones, I made sure and marked the correct position using the 'arrow' on the old bushes, taking measurements around the circumference etc, then got the new ones in bang on inline, the bolts went straight in

However, wish I had been just as sensible when finishing the brake mods to the right-hand side. I did the new disc and pads, and new caliper, just the same as the left side pictured. But had a problem with the right side (RHD) caliper as it wouldn't bleed air out. I clamped off the left side to see if this would help but it tuned out to be a faulty right-side caliper, so took it back and waited a few days for another one. After fitting it, I bled it no problem, so I took the car to have all the steering/suspension geometry laser checked. On the way back, I found I could do a 90 degree right-hander without even touching the steering wheel, I suspected another faulty caliper, so I went back to check the geometry, and put her on a rolling road... nothing from the left-side (passenger's) side at all.

By now, some of you more sensible members will have realized the mistake, those that have... please don't laugh! If you haven't got it yet, go to Start without passing Go and re-read the previous until you do get it, then don't laugh!

I got back home, jacked the car up and removed the left-side wheel, and there it was, starring at me trying to look innocent... I had left the clamp on when trying to bleed it all with the faulty caliper

After I calmed down, having spent some time in the garden where no-one could hear me swearing at myself, a thought occurred to me.
1) how many have done this before?
2) more interestingly, how many would admit to it?...
No prizes offered for guessing the right answer.. lol. I removed the clamp and hey-presto, the car stopped in a straight line

No doubt this will attract lots of comments But I remain utterly convinced it's my age (64)? errr, will you accept a lack of experience perhaps? how about a tiny amount of idiocy in the mix? Certainly it will prove to be invaluable experience another day, I'm sure, but in the meantime I hope this will bring a smile to a few members!
Paul

 

Paul ,these kind of things are sent to try us. Don't back down just yet!
​​​​​Ps, at least you didn't rip out your replacement radiator by driving straight over your jack (minus handle) a few days after installation