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Not being anything like as ambitious as some on this forum, this week I decided to tackle a few jobs myself on my '98 VDP. I have had the timing chain tensioner's replaced and the TransGo kit installed in the Transmission, brakes, shocks, water pump and thermostat housing replaced, but all done by a mechanic. So I thought I'd get my hands dirty and try a couple of things that needed attention. First I replaced the engine coolant by-pass hose, the one that's only a couple of inches long, as I had noticed that it was beginning to bulge. That job went well, and no leaks afterward. The next job was to try to solve the ABS light that would come on intermittently, about 1 trip in 7 I'd say. I had read Carnival Kids posts on cleaning up the sensors, so after buying myself a "Harbor Freight" 3 ton floor jack, I removed the wheels one by one, unbolted the sensors and cleaned them. The front sensor rotors are easily accessed and cleaned with a wire brush, but the rear ones are accessed through hole that the sensor fits in. so I soaked a rag in brake cleaner, pushed it down the hole with a screwdriver, put the transmission in neutral and rotated the wheel a few times, and cleaned the sensor rotors quite well. After putting everything back together, I started up the motor and the ABS light was on under the tachometer, but the traction control warning under the speedometer was off, as they had been coming on together. I checked all my connections, and then drove off down the street at a high rate of speed, feeling pretty disappointed at my attempted fix. But half way down the street the ABS light went out and stayed out, that's never happened before. So I'm fairly sure the problem has gone....for now.
we'll see if it lasts.
Well , that didn't last long, 2 days of short trips...OK, the 1 trip of 100 miles and the problem returned after 100 yards
Well , that didn't last long, 2 days of short trips...OK, the 1 trip of 100 miles and the problem returned after 100 yards
Typically the ABS issue are the two power pins breaking loose through the solder from the ABS controller board. The fix is to remove the ABS controller, open the cover ( or open a spot opposite the power connector), re-solder the pins, seal up the cover / holes and reinstall. I have fixed that same issue on three XJ's now.
I bet all that other work cost you a good paycheck or three?
Well , that didn't last long, 2 days of short trips...OK, the 1 trip of 100 miles and the problem returned after 100 yards
Are you sure your battery is in tip-top condition?
The ABS warning is one of the first to show if the voltage drops below some 12.4V.
As I drive my car too little, I got the problem from time to time as well, and it only stays away after a real long drive (>100km), during which the battery is really long term charged.
You might try a battery tender to have the battery slowly and fully topped-up, and see if there is a relation.
Glenn, I did see a you tube video about resoldering the pins, but it looks like you have to disconnect the brake lines to it to remove the unit and then bleed the brakes. I don't want to risk having no brakes and then pay to have it trailered to a mechanic.
Glenn, I did see a you tube video about resoldering the pins, but it looks like you have to disconnect the brake lines to it to remove the unit and then bleed the brakes. I don't want to risk having no brakes and then pay to have it trailered to a mechanic.
You don't have to remove the brake lines, they can be gently moved to the side for ABS unit removal.
Jacked up the right rear on break at work, and just as I suspected, it looks (at a glance anyway), that I once again have play in the outer u-joint. I had my doubts when I put that one in, even though it was actually the 2nd one I put in that side before due to breaking the first one. So this time, I'll see if I can find a more robust one. It definitely feels "grindy" even just wiggling the hub back and forth, and I know I greased it fine when I installed it. Had a hunch when, on right hand cuves at anything over 50 mph, the rear of the car would really sway back and forth, definitely a geometry issue at work. Left corners, nothing, but the rights..Guess I better get it done and out of the way before winter gets here. Since my boat is going up for the season, maybe that'll be this weekend. Dancing rear ends (which sound awesome in the right context!) aren't something I think will do me any favors in slippery conditions.
Polished and waxed the old lady in the last 2 days, as it is unusual "cold" (~25C) and rainy here for the time of the year.
Just finished her off, with the whole B2 rocking on a live concert of the other grand oll lady Tina Turner ....
Anyone complaining about the Jaguar sound system plays the wrong music on it .
Hi Eric,
27 C in Holland today
Very nice ride! A Tina Head Turner.
Could you please tell me how you installed the engine room lights and the floor lights? Where do you tap the current from?
Indeed it has to be normal lights,no LED to keep the ancient feeling of the Jag.
I have a 2000 XJR, no lights sadly in that locations.
Especially the floor lights are needed in an dark interior.
Maybe a seperate thread about this (if you have time?).
Regards, Jan
Could you please tell me how you installed the engine room lights and the floor lights? Where do you tap the current from?
Indeed it has to be normal lights,no LED to keep the ancient feeling of the Jag.
Yeah, you are not the first one who suggests that, I will see what I can do.
But basically it was all pretty straight forward.
I tapped the foot well lights into the interior lighting circuit, so they fade away if closing the doors.
The engine bay lights are integrated into the city / parking lights circuit, using a Jaguar bonnet alarm switch to disconnect if closed (a 1998 does not have the engine bay secured, so there is a hole for that switch).
I used the Jaguar trunk lights for the rear seats and the engine bay, and some Jeep well lights for the front.
Most work was to carefully cut holes in the rear fuse covers, and in the wobbling engine bay cover.
Thanks Eric!
I have the engine bay-switch already in the 2000 model.
Did you tap the current from the overhead-console or door-lights?
Is the circuit with the added lights drawing not too much current?
Strange that Jaguar did not lighten up this area from factory, but at least I have a new project
Thanks Eric!
I have the engine bay-switch already in the 2000 model.
Did you tap the current from the overhead-console or door-lights?
Is the circuit with the added lights drawing not too much current?
Strange that Jaguar did not lighten up this area from factory, but at least I have a new project
Engine bay light
If you already have the engine bay switch, I should not touch it.
It is related to the alarm, and you never know what can of worms you open there by splicing something in ....
It depends a bit of what you are after; I myself spliced it in the parking lights, but that requires the key and parking lights on to have the engine bay illuminated, maybe not the smartest move if you are stranded with a slowly dying battery ...
I can also see to use a switched PLUS and/or a separate switch, or maybe even a constant PLUS if you dare ... all is available in the bay, so it is just deciding, then wiring it in the chosen circuit.
By the way, there is not a whole lot of height for the lamp fixtures.
I "lowered" the plastic housing by cutting off the top and gluing them on the side, then used a rubber lamp holder.
There are however very flat, original Jaguar bay lights from the XJ40 time.
P.S. Was not sure on the heat of these under bonnet lights, so put a strip of heat reflective tape between the lamp and the bonnet.
Foot well lights
When I installed the phone mic wire for my Parrot Bluetooth to the dome light area, I parallel ran a wire for these lights.
For the front, I tapped them into the dome light wiring as I had it all open anyway.
But I guess wires of the same circuit can be found on other places (like the doors as you mentioned).
For the rear, there is a wire under the left rear seat, which goes to the dome lights in the rear, which I spliced into.
Regarding the capacity, I had the same thoughts / reservations, but 4 x 5W = 20W seems to work without a problem, I have them working for several years without a problem.
Last edited by ericjansen; Oct 14, 2018 at 10:54 PM.
Many thx Eric for your effort to eleborate on the install of the lights.
Indeed I hesitated to tamper with the existing bonnet-switch, which could awake the alarm-gremlins...
As for the interior,good to hear that the added lights can be safely connected to the existing circuit.
I will use second hand trunks lights from fleebay,new they cost a whopping 75 British pounds a piece,even up to $179.40 a piece ,lol!
Regards, Jan
Aerial on, Radio in, Livery applied. Off to the South Island at the end of the week for Targa NZ 2018. Official mid point tour car for one of the Targa Tours, 620 klm special stages and 1800+ touring between stages and then there is the 1700klm to and from, going to be a busy 10 days :)
check it out at; https://targa.nz/
Last edited by Robman25; Oct 15, 2018 at 05:06 PM.
Reason: Finishing off the text
I installed amber side marker lights where the Jag leaper was on the front fenders. I got them from a 2000? XJ8 at the wrecking yard. The passenger side had the harness plugged into the leaper badge and was a simple unplug, plug back in. On the driver side I see no harness so I simply popped the side marker light into the fender, harness pigtail connected. Next week I'll remove the inner fender liner and locate the harness. The passenger side now blinks with the right turn signal on. Cleans up the car's profile and adds a bit of safety as well.
ABS Sensors
ABS sensors?
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