Well it is a tight space. But I got the old hose off. And this is where I am at. I assume I have to move atleast the plastic coolant piece. Honestly, I didn't think this would happen before even starting it lol.

 

The pipe is held on by 4 screws. That is it. Undo them, re ove the pipe and it is all self explaining...

You've possibly even cracked the brittle pipe...

 

We'll see if I cut it. Still, thanks for the response.

 

Split the new one and wrap it up with duct tape??????

Personally I would buy a NEW coolant outlet pipe (it comes with new seals) and replace it. It is made of resin and cannot be far behind the hose as far as deterioration is concerned.

They are cheap compared to a replacement engine. I ALWAYS replace the thermostat tower (if it is resin), bypass hose and outlet pipe all at the same time.

bob

 

That's the best advise. When I took mine apart, all resin pieces were crumbling. So, for the same labor and cuts on the wrist, new hoses, TST, TST tower, crossover, stumpy, belt, belt tensioner, and water pump.

 

Many of those parts have been changed already. Anyways, I'm scared to drive it because I can't get the clamps to fully retract. Hopefully that makes sense to you guys. Either way, the clamps are on correctly. I'll post a pic shortly.

 

In my haste I did not order a by-pass hose when I did the outlet pipe & tower etc. A basic radiator hose cut to size from O'Reilly's fit the bill. Also broke one of the coolant vent lines to reservoir/the stiff plastic ones. W/ the help of a little JB Weld,super glue & proper whiskey we're leak free w/ optimal cooling lol.

PS :
What were these guys thinking w/ all the damn rigid plastics in the hottest area of the car ?! lol

 

I can actually understand the ideas... Just the execution could have been a lot better!

 

Very true, this is temporary until I replace everything that's brittle. Also factor in 100 degree FH heat coupled w/ 95% humidity. I think I did well, considering my BAC was in the high double digits lol.

Touche' sir lol !

 

See how where the clamps are grabbed to remove them? I know they are not fully retracted. Meaning not right as they should be.

 

I would expect the rubber hose to have a larger diameter. The cla ps will takemthat too. With time, it'll get better.

 

So just drive it with the way the hose clamps are, and keep an eye for possible leaks?

 

+1 #12

 

​​​​​​​Cheers! I'll keep you guys updated, and for people that change the hose and their clamps don't want to fully tighten.

 

There is no short cuts to a fail safe systen....take Motorcarman's advice!
The collector pipe is prone to spring a tiny leak due to heat related ageing of the plastic.
I replaced mine same time as alloy thermo tower six years ago and nary a leak ;o))

 

Ok, I'll change it. It's easy enough. I drove it yesterday, no leaks. Of course, I'll keep an eye on it.

 

What size is that hose?