thinking about blacking out the chrome around windows

 

My suggestion would be to class her up with the real chrome grill surrounds keeping the XJR grill mesh with the real chrome upper rear boot lid . The Sovereign and L models in the states has a smooth surface and the Vande Plus scalloped or dimpled surface . The same Jaguar badge is on the grill surrounds . Keep the chrome that you have . Would going gold work for you . I don't understand the process to do so .

 

Michaelmedina, my XJR has black window trim (Japan spec)

 

Mine too; but has a chrome grill surround.

 

Today:
Gotten the thing aligned. Like I suspected, left front side heavily toe out and then slightly surprisingly right front side had excessive toe in.

Camber was inside the normal range, slight surprise here as the car has been lowered.

Last saturday: new round of tires, chinese cheapos LandSail 588 in original 255/15/17.
And new sc belt tensioner pulley, old one had completely seized...
...
makes a bit worrisome noise. Also changed sc oil.

still debugging the sidenoise from engine, on weekend it was there sorry about the less than good video, yesterday when had more time to try to find the noise source the noise was very faint and I could not find it. Just wondering could it be loose valve seat or guide ?

[edit]

yes I know, portait videos do suck...

 

Ahhh so that's where the black trim surround came from, My X300 Base also has the black surround and it has always left me a little baffled as I thought the base models came with chrome and the black surround was included on the sports model. Mine also has the flat chrome radiator trim and I've swapped out the chrome plastic grill for a black pair.

 

So it seems I do indeed need a new fuel pump. The Jaguar pump is $425. From whom do I get the $12.50 pump

 

Read previous post here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...dation-123857/

Lots of them on eBay/Amazon. Prices vary, depending on whether you want factory original, OEM or aftermarket. Factory original was made by Denso.

 

What kind of troubleshooting have you done on the fuel pump before you are to change it . I did make a replacement washer reservoir out of a 5 pound plastic protein jar that fits perfect . Mine was missing

 

I've had an intermittent problem for several months, engine would crank but not start. Come back the next day and it would fire right up. I traced it back to a shorting pump relay, replaced the relay and it ran great for several weeks, which I mentioned in an earlier post. Some one replied with a warning that the shorted relay could indicate a failing pump. Last week, it failed to start, this time for good (no fuel). So I'm going to go ahead and have the fuel pump and filter replaced (I'm going to purchase the pump and filter and have my mechanic install it).

That said, Rockauto list three model numbers for Denso fuel pumps for my car (96 XJ6, 4.0 liter). Which one is the correct model number (951008, 9500172, 9500183)?

 

You can wire the 1 not 2 fuel pumps through the Auxiliary relay and see how that works before you spend the big bucks on a mechanic with the labor to replace a suspected pump ( could still be that ) . Since the pump is not responding now it would be a good time to troubleshoot vs. an intermittent issue . Do you get the initial priming of the fuel rail as you turn the key to on before you go to start . Only last 3 -5 seconds and then the pump turns off until the ECU sees engine rotation . Without getting into detail on this thread and clouding up the main tread topic of show and tell , you can private mail me .

 

Been losing coolant for about two months. Had to put about a half gallon every week or two, mind you I really only drive it on the weekends. Found the top hose out of the back of the water pump housing leaking at the connection. Tightened the hose clamp and it ceased. Put it back on the pressure test and was still losing pressure but very slowly this time. Found the seal between the tank and the core of the right side of the radiator slowly leaking.
Already replaced the radiator once with a salvaged radiator, now that one is leaking.

Shopping for a new radiator. Anyone bought a radiator from jaguar classic parts and know what brand they sell? Is it the eurospare?

 

Scarecrow, just try a decent stop-leak.
I had a new aluminium radiator made for my 3.2
It leaked from new, sent it back, had it repaired, then they tried to blame me - said I had a stray current causing electrolysis of the aluminium . Had it checked - not so.
Got sick of the excuses and the cost and the car off the road, so manage it with a copper-filing stop leak . All good 2 years later

Having said that, I had all my water hoses replaced with genuine Jag hoses 4 years ago when I burst a hose under full throttle. So all my hoses are good as new.

 

I tried to cheap out and got a used radiator and it didn't work out. Well it worked for 2 years and I paid $150 or $175 for it, so I guess it was alright. I'd prefer to just replace it new rather than go the stop leak route. I see some aftermarket radiators for about 450-500 US dollars. The dealer near me says they can get it from Atlanta for $1650. That's not happening.

I was reading through this thread and saw a post you made about a radiator you had made. Was wondering if it worked out when I read about it. Guess I know the answer to that now.

 

Water rail gasket ( X 2 ) considered ?

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-3-2-4-0-litre

 

replaced rear exhaust manifold, was actually not that much of pita at all, key to success was short 15mm box wrench for the downpipe bolts and liberal amount of penetrating oil evening before.

changed also arb drop links and arb bodybushings (powerflex).

and.... discovered whole lot of rust in the left side sill.

 

stripped the front seats and carpet for the rust repairs looming ahead. Nothing too complicated just tedious and luckily the seats are not that heavy. Going to get the rust repairs done by shop as I can't weld to save my life. Graphic scenes of the damage below... right side ain't this bad but both sidea are seemingly rotten at least to the back doors...

 

Removed exhaust manifold heat shield to check manifold's for cracks and my weld was still sound, all was ok. Changed steering rack gaiters ( again ) stripped starter motor down cleaned all internals reinstalled, very dirty inside but not much wear, it had been a bit sticky at times but spins engine round like a goodin now. Also took driver's door card off and greesed all window and lock points as window was getting really slow going up, much better now.

 

new filter and synthetic oil,new high beam lamps,new fuel sending unit

rear dashcam on the way

 

Replaced my leaking radiator with a new eurospare radiator. Flushed system and replaced with zerex g-05. Pressure tested system and was good to go.

When taking off the hoses I noticed about 3/4 of the lip on the port the upper hose slides onto to prevent the hose and clamp from sliding off was broken off. Looked in the thermostat housing and didn't see the pieces in there. So I'm thinking it's in the tank of the radiator. Luckily the hose clamp was enough to keep it on and didn't loosen up and slip off while driving.