Here we go:

https://www.hbsslaw.com/cases/ford-l...ns-of-vehicles

 

Interesting read considering I've just snapped a couple of mine in half.
But then my car is a 2002 model, and I can't say if they've ever been replaced before.

 

I had those sorry two part lugs when I got mine. Tire store idiots broke one off and stripped a second one before they had enough sense to come and get me. I replaced them with these for under $35. They have worked just fine. I put anti-seize on lugs and that has worked out well.

 

Same here, smear of copper grease on the threads then torqued to spec.
The torque spec sounds high, but they are still easy enough to remove.

 

Jaguar specifically state not to put anything on the threads.

(Also, if you do then you should reduce the torque.)

 

They also said the transmission fluid would last for life.

I've got anti seize on mine.

 

Still quite happy with the Mitsubishi MB579290 one-piece lug nuts I installed on my S-Type back in January 2010. I did an oil & filter change / tire rotation last Friday. There was no trace of rust on any of the lug nuts and the chrome remains completely intact. While originally a bit pricier than some of the other options out there, these have indeed remained pristine....

 

Not in at least the last 8 years (i.e. when I first used TOPIx - it was already stated to change its fluid).

 

I member a bulletin, they claimed the nuts could come loose ?!!

 

They might seize due to chemical reaction - as reported on another jag forum by an ex-lorry driver.

 

This one? http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...eel%20Nuts.pdf

Seize due to the anti seize?

 

It causes corrosion - depends which one with which metals. But if you prefer to risk that, if you use it you ought to reduce the torque.

I can say that here is one of the worst places for rust but the lug nuts do not rust and do not seize on when used without antiseize or grease. They're fine dry, as Jaguar say to use them.

 

Ooh, this is starting to open a can of worms isn't it...................
I had a look at the pdf that was linked to above, the main point it picks out is "clean and dry".
So given that once the vehicle leaves the factory enviroment it is no longer in a "clean and dry" enviroment, but is open to the elements, which in a lot of countries is damp, resulting in corrosion of some form or another, whether that be from water, road salt, different alloys reacting against each or what.
Even with brushing down the threads when you do have the wheels off, you will not remove all of the corrosive substance that is starting to accumulate.
And who has their wheels off on such a regular basis that they would be able to keep this kind of thing under control anyway?
Not me that's for sure.
The only time mine come off is for maintenace or repair of some description.
I only had a brief dig around, but couldn't immediately find anything that said a dab of copper anti sieze grease could cause corrosion.

 

13 yr old car, about the worst country for rust - mine hasn't got any corrosion on the wheel (stud?) threads. This idea of adding stuff instead of doing as jag say clearly is not necessary.

All the ordinary iron bolts open to road water etc are terribly rusty. Not the ones for the wheels (but then they're not that cheap iron stuff).

 

I replaced mine with Toyota/Lexus lugnuts 4 years ago. They look similar to the picture you posted.