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does anyone have tips on how to secure the cloth flaps on the underside of the seat skins that separate the rolled seat portion of the skins from the bolsters around the outside on the front seat squabs? the original skins are so deteriorated that all that is left of these important pieces is the twine that is sewn into and curves around the burlap and frame. i'm guessing that these flaps are sewn to the seat frame and springs before the foams are inserted underneath and the skins are then pulled and nudged into the correct shape. what i'm looking for is getting the depth of the divide between the rolled part and the front and side bolsters. i'm using an OJIS style kit made by the former company,
FYI got a hold of the trimmer at OJIS and beyond being very helpful he told me exactly how to secure the flaps by cutting them into strips and securing those by knotting them to seat springs after passing them through holes in burlap. then insert and position foams under the skins.
jose - should those strips be secured to the springs or the frame? i can't really pull the skin down by attaching the strip to the spring directly underneath it. but i can snug it up by pulling it down around frame but this begs the question how much do i pull on the skin with the strip, thus compressing the spring, before tying it?
I have some pictures of a "before" from when I was fixing a length of torn leather in my S type's driver's seat. Took pictures for reference retying the strips later.
It might answer your question. As soon as I find them I'll post them.
but yes, the fabric strips are tied to certain places to the FRAME of the springs, at least in my S type seat they are. They force the springs to stay slightly compressed when all are tied;
also the strips "form" and help maintain the shape of the seat cover over the foam, so each strip has more or less a different length and tightness,
the outer ones are longer and looser than the ones towards the center. So each one is tie and check visually, tie and check visually, repeating with the others.
the rod that the strips would have to tie to is the same distance from the skins. the muslin piece that the strips are from is a perfect rectangle so i'm guessing the tying is a art rather than a science. from my pics in the op the outer front ends of the ribs of the squab are higher than the center front ends so i'll shoot for that. thanks for the info about "slightly compressed" springs. this is the original material. top side is a mess and there are no strips installed or remaining underneath as you can see. as beat i can see, muslin material was glued to the burlap and wrapped all the way down to bottom of seat frame.
Last edited by jagstuart; Jan 6, 2018 at 08:01 PM.
I see the S-type seats are different to my Mk2, however looks like you're doing OK.
I now recall using strong cable ties underneath the seats to stretch the covers , using the rods as securing points. Probably not "according to Hoyle" but it worked for me.
Practice makes perfect as its definitely an acquired art. Your last seat will probably turn out a lot better than your first. Hence the need to re-do one of mine!
pretty much took all day to put back skin on after days of fabbing up the top foams and base foams (replacing the old foam, kapok and "horse hair" supports). my kit was not made on a good day and another inch of leather on the sides would have made the job of wrapping them around the frame and tacking them to the tacking strips MUCH easier. i really sweat the upholstery being a perfectionist and a cheap skate. folds and wrinkles C/O the PO storing the stuff in a heap for 22 years.
Last edited by jagstuart; Jan 21, 2018 at 07:06 PM.
Seat upholstery
