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Lovely, great choice. prise those rubber backing pieces off the pad metal though. They do no good and often cause the pad to jam in the calliper. (Just in case you were unaware) ensuring runout is under 3 thou is pretty important when fitting new discs.
EBC rotors and red stuff pads is what I have got, and they are brilliant. I will be interested to hear what the yellows are like, if you have a moment to post, after you have tried them.
Last edited by Greg in France; Apr 7, 2018 at 07:46 AM.
Nice. A 1992 model? The white rear reflectors are that year only, I believe. The area under the bumper looks different to mine, however. Maybe I'm imagining it.
I bought a cruise control pump, because mine just makes a terrible screeching noise, and a new actuator since the plastic nipple broke off when I removed the hose.
Washed, clay barred, waxed and cleaned my Dayton Wire Wheels. She runs perfect, and I will change the oil soon. This is my third XJS, a 91 convertible Classic Collection. Can’t wait for summer on Cape Cod.
Lovely, great choice. prise those rubber backing pieces off the pad metal though. They do no good and often cause the pad to jam in the calliper. (Just in case you were unaware) ensuring runout is under 3 thou is pretty important when fitting new discs.
EBC rotors and red stuff pads is what I have got, and they are brilliant. I will be interested to hear what the yellows are like, if you have a moment to post, after you have tried them.
ok, thanks for advise.
of course i will post, but it will be not so soon. because my suspension fully disassembled for restoration.
somebody can tell my what better grease to use for wheel bearing, u-joint, and etc (of suspensions). i can't decide between: shell gadus s3 v220c 2, mobil xhp 222 or kroon-oil HT Q9 ? or try to use synthetic lubricant (more expensive) : Mobilith SHC 220, Shell Gadus S5 V220, Mobil 1 synthetiс grease ?
how much I need grease to fully lubricate front wheel bearings + rear + u-joint + etc.. ? 3 x 400 gram tube will be enough? in workshop manual no information about it.
Another one to fix the first one! Pics coming soon.
Jack
Well Here's the story. I found my first XJS and decided to Lump it, as it had an engine fire, and repair costs were ridiculous. Then i found the under dash was also burnt, wiring, A/C, heater, etc. So I've been looking for several months, and found the virtual twin to mine, with one major difference. This one hasn't been on Fire! It even runs !!! All the pieces are there. Master cylinder, Interior, wiring harnesses, all the damaged stuff is there! YES!!! Now on to the Jacobra!
New harmonic damper finally arrived....
A reman version, so I have to post the old one back once the swap's been made, which will cost an appreciable percentage of the US$150 rebate, but better than nothing I guess. It's a very heavy, solid thing indeed.
Finally, after an exhaustive search, installed front lower valence, front spoiler air damn, skid plate and front wheel well baffles...
Feeling like I can driver around now - a little more. Looking to get floor welded, as opposed to bolted in, asap. Saving my pennies for carpets from Pauls...
A.C., and a couple of leaks - and I'll be golden, lololololol...
Slowly but surely...
The inhibit switch at the base of the gear shift (just needed the actuator tweaked a bit) followed by the pot adjustments on the cruise amplifier..took a bit of flying up and down the freeway but there's worse ways to spend a Saturday. While I had the centre console apart I replaced the light bulbs with LED's with the idea that I'm not going in there again
Full set of front suspension bushings ordered. She’s taken to shifting her steering rack around before she turns. Unsettling. All the bushings are worn out.
What else should I plan to do when I eventually man up and pull the subframe?
Why is it cold again? What happened to that lovely spring we were having?
What else should I plan to do when I eventually man up and pull the subframe?
Look at the stub axles for wear grooves on the place the inner races bear on them, and check the bearings are OK. After that, I think as long as you have got all the wishbone, rack and the subframe bushes that is it. If the brakes are iffy, replace/rebuild the callipers and the discs and flexibles. If the master cylinder has not been replaced, good idea to do that.
Once the subframe is out, it is surprisingly easy yo get all the new bits on. The most hard is the lower wishbone fulcrum pin. buying two new ones is a good idea, they are not expensive. In my case I had to use an electric hacksaw to cut them in the tiny gap between the wishbone and the subframe. They would not knock out as the bushes cushion the hammer blows. The old bushes, with the cut pins in them, had to be burned out of the wishbone eyes! The pins rust into the subframe tubes a bit, but a drift and a big hammer moves them. Grease up the new ones with antiseize.
