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Just went through the replacement of the intercooler pump with the Bosch 010 model. Took a bit if wiggling about and whatnot, but that has now been swapped. Realized I don't have a way to get the plug off the top, so I'm having somerun run to the store for a bolt I can use to open that up to refill. I did turn the key to On, and was relieved that I wasn't met with the screaming wail that the old pump was giving me. Slight hum to it, but that was with my head there and the hood open and the intake all apart, and surely not noticeable once the car is running. Just bugs me that I have to wait another two hours to top it back off. I are dum.
Also made my DIY smoke tester, but the wind has picked up something awful up here on the hill, which really cuts down on the effectiveness when trying to see where wisps are coming from. So that'll be a job for tomorrow instead.
I know the feeling. I go through so many nitrile gloves every time I work on the car, it's crazy.
I used a DIY smoke test on the car, and was a little saddened by the results. So I put it back together after having it apart for the intercooler pump replacement, and have just wallowed in self-pity the rest of the day lol
hi I have to change the service belt and its belt tensioners I hear noises from the bearings of the belt tensioner, I have the metal ones I can change only the bearings? Some of you have already done this work, which ones can I replace with?
Yes, idler and tensioner bearings are the same size.
See here for more details - just ignore the additional info on the s/c belt system: Klick here
Be careful with the pulley's bolt - it's left hand threaded! All other bolts of the accessory drive belt system are "normal" right hand threaded bolts. See workshop manual for details.
the mechanic does not want to replace the bearings then I bought what we need from British Parts UK hopefully, you make acuists on this site? I registered but I can not make the payment, when I'm at the cart everything stops, mha ....
Typical... Just ordered some parts again... Another €500 to get my POS running even better and just after the PO is placed, the car starts to cause more problems. Worst thing is: it isn't even being neglected! All my cash is going into this heap o' poop and it decides to do what it wants to.
Hmm... Well, problem solved itself. As if the Moog parts (problem solvers) solved it. Was just about to get some petrol to pur over the POS ans then: all fine again
Replaced the front shocks today... Boy, the more I drive it, the more I like it! As if the car is slowly getting to a perfect driver. Form but not too firm. Very little body roll now. When the rear shocks are done, I'll be even happier!
Washed the exterior & finally got around to cleaning the fuel filler door area. It was so thick w/ dark sludge & fluorescent pollen, it looked as if some primordial beast had been birthed there, Nessie from Loch Ness maybe ?! Seriously I gather it hadn't been cleaned in a decade +, if ever @ all.
Edit :
Transmission rebuild check-up revealed my pressure regulator was indeed upgraded on the RB. My harsh initial shift was due to the transmission temp. sensor had become unseated/fouled apparently during the rebuild. So far, so good !
Going forward I'm looking for someone to refurbish my rear sub-frame(bushings etc.). Car's handling excellent & I've eliminated all the other possible causes of the driver's side rear knock. It's the "knuckle" point on the sub-frame. It's still a great place to be w/ an 18 year old car, to have it down to minor annoyances like noises & broken interior trim pieces to be your most pressing issues.
Last edited by King Charles; Apr 21, 2018 at 06:19 PM.
Decided to go out and replace my brake booster and see if that would fix my issue. Had my doubts, and those doubts were confirmed when, prior to putting fluid back in, I started the car and put my finger over the vacuum line before plugging it back in. Felt almost zero pull at ALL on my finger. I started tracing back the line to the TB again, and wouldn't you know, I found two very large cracks on the underside just where it bends down to go into the TB. And that fitting has been gooped up too. Tried taping the bejebus out of it to see if MAYBE I could get a little vacuum, but nope. Didn't expect much, really. I did replace the two front brake lines in the meantime, and bled them again. Time to find that stupid hose now.
I found JB Weld to be a good product to use . One version is a quick setup and the other is a long setup . Yellow packaging for one and red for the other .
Yesterday I decided to clay bar and polish my XJR. In the process of treating the headlight lenses I discovered that the drivers side (LHD) high beam adjustment screw was gone (headlight wiggled a lot when I was cleaning it). Upon further inspection I also discovered that one of the snap on mounting points was broken and rigged up with a wire.
I think this might account for the occasional rattle I hear up front despite the fact that ALL of the front suspension components are new.
I went to my parts car and unfortunately the corresponding headlight bracket on that car was broken (front end collision). I used left over clay from the clay bar kit to tighten up the wired fit and I did get the adjustment screw from the parts car so it's "kinda" fixed, but only until I can find another bracket.
The eBay sellers want too much for this part so I guess I'll go to the salvage yard when I can find the time.
Just in case; if any of you guys has this part laying around I would be extremely grateful. If you do, let me know your price.
Pics below of my clean car and of the part I need.
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