blew out a spark plug
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From: ga
blew out a spark plug
#5 spark plug blew out on the interstate.
how easy is rethreading that back plug hole?.
i imagine a sleeve will be required?
300 miles from home with most tools and off street parking
also... how can i manually achieve TDC with the intake removed ?
Last edited by iownme; Jun 14, 2018 at 11:15 PM.
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From: Great Mills, MD
iownme, as for the repair, probably need to look up "Timesert". I used this on my Expedition and this has been great for the last 30K miles. No need to remove parts from the engine. But, you will need to find where the valves are closed and the cylinder is as low as practical in the cylinder.
As for finding TDC, I would say to remove the intake and then use something like a straw. You simply put the straw in the plug hole and then rotate the engine (manually or by using a momentary switch on the starter) till you see the straw get up as high as it can.
If you need more ideas, let me know.
As for finding TDC, I would say to remove the intake and then use something like a straw. You simply put the straw in the plug hole and then rotate the engine (manually or by using a momentary switch on the starter) till you see the straw get up as high as it can.
If you need more ideas, let me know.
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thermo
thanks very much
i read one of your posts about the timesert and then watched a video of it being used.
it looks a little difficult and complicated to me.... besides expensive and not readily available (my car is now sitting in my clients driveway)
i have watched videos of the "cheaper" sleeve kits which involve rethreading the hole oversize, then an insert screws onto the spark plug, then the plug screws back in.
i have just removed the intake manifold. The coil and spark plug are very dead ( i'll try and uplaod a pic)
ordered new coils last night so im certainly stuck here for a few days.
I like that idea with the straw!
but how do i rotate the engine manually?
Most people on the intraweb say piston needs to be TDC when re-tapping the thread?
thanks very much
i read one of your posts about the timesert and then watched a video of it being used.
it looks a little difficult and complicated to me.... besides expensive and not readily available (my car is now sitting in my clients driveway)
i have watched videos of the "cheaper" sleeve kits which involve rethreading the hole oversize, then an insert screws onto the spark plug, then the plug screws back in.
i have just removed the intake manifold. The coil and spark plug are very dead ( i'll try and uplaod a pic)
ordered new coils last night so im certainly stuck here for a few days.
I like that idea with the straw!
but how do i rotate the engine manually?
Most people on the intraweb say piston needs to be TDC when re-tapping the thread?
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From: ga
here are a couple of pics (assuming i was able to upload)
is the missing electrode likely to cause further damage?
i had to drive about 3 miles before i found a place to safely park
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iownme, the sleeve thing that you are talking about is effectively what you do with the Timesert kit. the only difference is the Timersert kit has a tool that you screw into the new sleeve and flares the end of it so it cannot back out on you. the sleeve you talk about could unscrew over time and put you into the same position that you are in now.
While it may look confusing, it isn't. It is really easy. Remove plug, verify the motor has the piston down on the cylinder in question. You then take a tool and ream out the old threads. You then insert a tap and cut the new threads. From there, you insert the sleeve with the flare tool attached (it will flare the sleeve automatically as you tighten the sleeve). Remove the flare tool and insert your spare plug.
While it may look confusing, it isn't. It is really easy. Remove plug, verify the motor has the piston down on the cylinder in question. You then take a tool and ream out the old threads. You then insert a tap and cut the new threads. From there, you insert the sleeve with the flare tool attached (it will flare the sleeve automatically as you tighten the sleeve). Remove the flare tool and insert your spare plug.
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Therno
thank you again.
while i was in napa looking to see what they had in stock, a customer chatted with me and offered to come and help me, turns out he worked in a local garage im friendly with.
He didnt have time to help with the rethread and insert, but he did show me how to manually get TDC with valves closed and spent an hour explaining how and why it all works.
i paid $40 for the insert kit and i just finished putting the insert and new plug back in.
Although i ordered a full set of coils yesterday, napa was able to get me one later today so i'll pick that up shortly and put it all back together, napa coil was under $50
Will post back later with the results.
vehicle has 123000 miles and new plugs so im gambling this will fix the problem until used F types are available cheap...haha
thank you again.
while i was in napa looking to see what they had in stock, a customer chatted with me and offered to come and help me, turns out he worked in a local garage im friendly with.
He didnt have time to help with the rethread and insert, but he did show me how to manually get TDC with valves closed and spent an hour explaining how and why it all works.
i paid $40 for the insert kit and i just finished putting the insert and new plug back in.
Although i ordered a full set of coils yesterday, napa was able to get me one later today so i'll pick that up shortly and put it all back together, napa coil was under $50
Will post back later with the results.
vehicle has 123000 miles and new plugs so im gambling this will fix the problem until used F types are available cheap...haha
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From: ga
the car is back together again and performing fine.
MIL is off with no codes or pending codes after a 30 minute drive.
The whole job was quite do-able but im glad i was given the knowledge to have TDC with both valves in the closed position.
I encountered his problem years ago on the 4.6 ford motor and paid a lot of money to get it resolved...2 engine rebuilds and finally a brand new engine, so im real glad i tried and fixed this.
MIL is off with no codes or pending codes after a 30 minute drive.
The whole job was quite do-able but im glad i was given the knowledge to have TDC with both valves in the closed position.
I encountered his problem years ago on the 4.6 ford motor and paid a lot of money to get it resolved...2 engine rebuilds and finally a brand new engine, so im real glad i tried and fixed this.
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
As a general rule when drilling or tapping a hole where you do not want shavings to fall in, smear a wheel bearing grease all over the tap. The shavings will stick to the grease. Clean and reapply often.
Good job on the road!!
Good job on the road!!
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i used a sh@$ load of red grease.
cleaned and reapplied every 2 turns.
Blew out cylinder each time also with compressed air.
I can whip that intake off in a split second now!
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