Hi,
Can anyone help me in identifying the wattage of the resistor in the slm.

I have had problems and on taking apart, found that the resistor R92 has burnt out. The R79 resistor next to it shows 1ohm but no wattage?

I would rather solder in a new resistor than pay £400+ for a new module.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Al

 

That physical size should not be over 5 Watts, so 5 watts will be safe. The 'J' means 5% tolerance. If that is a 1 ohm, this would be a good candidate: http://www.digikey.com/product-detai....0CT-ND/596682

 

Thanks so much for this brilliant advise, very much appreciated indeed.
Al

 

Steve, you are the electronics expert, not me...I was just wondering if these are ceramic fire resistant resistors vs standard, and if so I would think that would be important?

 

Good point Steve. Most higher wattage resistors these days are flameproof. The one I referenced has a ceramic core and a ceramic coating.

 

I'd send it off to a computer/module shop on ebay and pay the $45-50 lol,maybe less, instruct them to replace and test it lol

 

Hi Al,

What problems have you been having with your SLM?

I've been told I need to replace mine & have been looking for a used replacement but have been unable to find one so the idea of fixing it with a new resistor sounds good to me.

 

Hi Jon,
Quite random faults really, first the central locking is playing up, keeps rolling on the door catches (clicking in the out) now have to use key to open and lock as fob just activates/deactivates alarm.
Then i lost my rear lights on passenger side, brake lights work okay but annoying having the check rear lights message when lights come on.

The SLM is easy to remove and seems to be the culprit? when taken apart found the resistor blown, I'm hoping this is all as £400+ for anew module is excessive and no doubt will also be needed to be reprogrammed by Jag?

Cheers
Al

 

The resistor will probably fix the problem with the lights, but the central locking problem is more likely a bad microswitch in the door latch.

 

Thanks Al,


My problem is the "check rear lights" warning after a few prods of the brake pedal so please keep us informed of your progress.


By the way, exactly where is the SLM located, I know it's in the boot but I'm not sure where & how difficult is it to take apart?


Thanks for your help

 

Yes know doubt, who ever thought solving that problem would be down to a penny resistor lol.

Cheers
Al

 

Its in the boot or trunk lol, its on the same side as the battery underneath the fuse compartment, Quite easy to get at, 3 x 10mm bolts and a couple of plastic plugs. Just unplug everything and lift out with a bit of jiggling. All colour coded on the plugs, so easy to reconnect. Just make sue you disconnect battery first. Negative, Positive then visa versa to reconnect. Obviously will need to reset windows, throttle etc after reconnecting and security code for radio if needed.

Cheers
Al



Cheers

Al

 

Apologies for barging in but the option to create a new thread isn't easy to find (Any advice would be most helpful).
I couldn't unlock my 2005 XK8 (60,000 miles) RHD with my key fob so I thought the battery must be flat.
Searched for and found my second fob which hadn't been used for a couple of decades but this didn't work either, so I resorted to key in the slot which worked OK but of course set off the alarm !
Anyway, I assumed that both fobs must be flat, so I replaced the batteries in both but unfortunately still no joy.
I'd be most grateful for any advice on how to fix please (Is there a fuse and if so where ?)
Thanks

 

You should find the 'new thread' button at the top of the main page: the link is here

Assuming it's only that the fobs need reprogramming, then this post from reddog11 contains the process:

fob reprogram

Note that the 'honk' is much more like a very quiet 'chirp'

 

Thanks for your advice however the fobs may not be the problem since:
1) I have two fobs with new batteries and the car doesn't seem to respond to either of them.
2) I can lock the car manually with the key it locks OK with a beep.
3) When I manually unlock the car with the key there are two possible outcomes:
a) The car unlocks but as soon as I open the door it counts down to the alarm mode. If I'm quick to turn on the ignition the alarm doesn't trigger.
b) The alarm triggers immediately I open the door and has to be disabled by turning on the ignition.
It's unpredictable which of the above two options will occur.
4) The boot/trunk doesn't respond at all to the fobs and can only be opened with the key or dash button.
5) The lights don't respond to the fobs but work OK using the steering column switch.
It's all most peculiar and my Jag garage just wants to replace the remote module without further investigation
Any help from readers would be much appreciated - Thanks

 

The alarm firing when the car is unlocked with the key is normal behaviour.

There are three possibilities why the car isn't responding:

i) the fob isn't transmitting
ii) the receiver in the SLM isn't receiving/functioning
iii) the fobs aren't paired with the car

i) you can check with a fob testing tool, or someone (radio amateur?) with a scanner or UHF receiver.

ii) is more difficult to pin down. See this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1721719

iii) will be a consequence of i) or ii)

If your car is the coupe, check the cable is still on the antenna stud - mid-top of rear window.