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Purchased a rust free 05 2.5 AWD petrol X Type for £600, cheap as it was overheating.
Replaced the water pump, thermostat, and fan control module which solved the overheating (as you’ll all expect, fan control module was the main issue, thought I’d do the other bits as just par for the course)
Brakes continued to overheat on the front and clearly had been doing so for some time, so I replaced the discs, pads, and one caliper which was in quite a state. Didn’t fix the problem.
Where I’m up to:
I’ve disconnected the ABS module and that’s fixed the issue. Obviously it needs replacing and the MOT is in October so I want to do it in the next few weeks so I’m not working outdoors in the winter. Car only does ‘date night’ trips so less than 50 miles a week so I’m in no immediate hurry. I could even drive with the ABS disconnected although I’ve lost the speedometer with the connector off. Brakes work fine without it on.
Questions:
From the photos, can you tell me the exact part number I need. Used ones on eBay seem to be under £40. Bookmarked this one as it seems right https://ebay.io/m/6M1rJp
Does the replacement module need coding to the car, I have a Topdon Artidiag500 OBD2 reader which I’m guessing may be able to do this or at least clear the codes (which only came up on removing the ABS cable - have ABS, brake and power train warning lights on while disconnected)
Any links to replacement posts or videos, not done one of these before but I assume it’s as easy as remove - replace - pressure bleed the brakes and top up fluid.
Do you intend to replace the ABS module only, or the complete "octopus" (=the metal part, where all the "legs" of the octopus connect)?
I have not done the octopus replacement yet, but I imagine it to be quite a challenge, especially, as some "legs" might not want to disconnect that easily.
Anyway, why don't you try to fix your module first?
Removing the module (black box) only is difficult, but doable, and easier than removing the octopus. Removal:
The common problem with those modules on the XJ8 (X308) is that the 2 solder points, where the 12V power supply comes in, have developed cold welds over time, i.e. the solder connection points are broken now. I have fixed that on my X308 already by resoldering those points (to get to the solder points, I drilled holes into the black box, I think. Maybe the same issue and fix exists for the X-Type. Can you try to investigate, if your symptoms (hot breaks) could be a result of that?
A new octopus and module would be quite expensive, if available at all, and when buying used, you never know what you get.
Peter, thanks so much. Exactly the sort of video I needed but couldn’t find.
That seems like such a logical thing to do, remove the module and deep clean, and far easier than an entire disassembly. Thanks for the guidance, loving these forums and the tried and tested advice on offer!
Mechanics of the car seem solid, so after the fan module replacement fixed the coolant issue, I’m definitely on board with the idea of this being solder
points rather than wholesale part replacement.
I would recommend adjusting the rod that actuates the master cylinder using the procedure in the link below posted by Dennis Black. It worked like a charm for me when I had perfectly good calipers dragging for no apparent reason after recent brake work. In 20 or 30 minutes it is possible your issue could be fixed without getting into the ABS at all and without spending any money. Worth a shot?
The guy above seem to have a solution, but if that's not it, I got a few more ideas:
SO, I removed my ABS module back then, but I can't remember what I did with it - either I drilled holes, or I was able to open the black box, maybe I did the soldering (which is more so the fix for the X308), maybe I just looked at the PCB and did not see anything wrong, maybe I did nothing with the box. Anyway, I put it back in and then found my problem: One of the many pins in the huge blue connector did not give contact anymore. That is why I had ABS failure, because this specific pin was connected to one of the speed-sensors.
Maybe any one of the other pins in your connector has given up, which may lead to any other kind of failure mode...