I'm taking on the roll of changing out all for rotors and pads myself. Can someone provide me with proper instructions on how to bleed the system correctly and the correct type of fluid that is required. It just seems to me that these cars always like things done differently than what I'm used to. (subaru's) Thanks!

-chris

 

Just changing the brakes does not require brake bleeding. But just remember that you will need to hammer off the discs (wear safety goggles) on the front. There is nothing other than the caliper holding the disc in place (which I think is a design mistake) so they come off when you get the caliper out of the way.

Make sure you have disc cleaner spray to get the oil off the discs (they are there as anti-rust) and spray them (clean) again after they are on the car to get your finger prints off. Make sure you have caliper grease to go on the back of the calipers and on the caliper rods (just to lube). I could not fit my spacers on the back of the front pads since the discs seem a smidgen larger but that's OK. Just keep them in the grarage and maybe one day you could (or not) put them on. I am leaning on not.

The front caliper piston with a large chanelox (plier) will go in easy enough. Just squeeze it in SLOWLY and you will be able to put eveything back on easy enough. You may find a SMALL puddle of brake fluid on the garage floor (that's OK it's only a little overflow from squeezing the caliper in).

The rear WILL require the caliper tool. Without it, it will not work. The caliper tool squeezes and turns the piston. Yes the rear piston needs to turn as it enters. You cannot relieve the piston by opening the blled valve and enter it since it has nothing to do with pressure. You see the rear calipers also are mechanical (turning) hand brakes. This is the OLD system of brake systems but works better than the new fangles ones on newer cars anyway. So find or buy that tool. I think it should be under $20 at an autoparts shop. I borrowed one from a garage.

To bleed the brakes, have someone in the car pump 3 times and keep the pedal to the floor and open the bleeder valve until it runs clear and without air squirts (you may need to repeat 2-3 times). MAKE SURE NO BRAKE FLUID TOUCHES THE PAINT it is a great paint stripper. A brake bleeding kit (plastic bottle with hose) will keep it off the garage floor as well. Type DOT4 is the standard in there already so good to top up with the same.

I painted the calipers to keep them from rusting a bit longer with caliper paint (brush on type) from auto store.

Have fun,

 

How many miles on that brake fluid??

Unless it's contaminated, it shouldn't need replacement.

Brakes and rotors in your driveway are a bitch, I hope you have a nice garage set-up!

Make sure you use a quality-brand of rotor, cheap ones may squeal a LOT.

 

Yeah whatever little man.... I have done tons of brake work and they always seems to be OK. But whatever..... go ahead and post. And it is under warranty as a matter of fact.

Question: Why when you post you seem to attack people as if you are the king kahuna of the X, the know it all. I mean almost every post is an attack about how you know more. You DO NOT need to change fluid when you change pads. Jag recommends every 2 years. Changing pads does not affect your fluids. But again, post what you want. I am never coming back to this site. RICERX has ruined the party.

Execk2 Out. Have fun all.

By the way it's a 1957 Porsche and a 1966 Karmann Ghia...

 

not to cause arguements.. hahah not my style at all.hehehe...
I have searched through the official jag workshop manuals and they tell you to just push the fluid back up the pipework when you change the pads... they even explain the manual 2 person way to bleed brakes.

I was suprised about both of these procedures. I agree with Racer that pushing dirty fluid up towards teh ABS unit is not the greatest idea, and gravity or pressure bleeding is easier and does a better job.

But there seems to be no one way valve as you are concerned about.

I do wonder about the dirty fluid being realy dirty.. it is darker, and they say you should change it every two years. But I dont think that any moisure can get insde the pipes or hoses. It is a completely closed system except for the vent in the reservoir cap. the moisture must get in there. As the fluid absorbs moisture, then the boiling point lowers and you can get brake fade sooner.. that is why we need to chage the fluid every 2 years.

i have changed brake fluid several times and i usually use a turkey baster to suck the reservoir dry, then refill it with clean stuff before bleeding the rest out throught the calipers. I put it all in glass jars and i have never seen any differnce in the dirtyness( darkness) of the stuff that was in the reservoice compared to what was in the calipers.

nothing wrong with being over cautious in this case. But the Jag manual does not support what is being said here..

 

Anyone got any pictures of how the rear caliper tool looks like?

 

Hi ALL
I just changed rear brake pads and rotors on jaguar X type 2002. Now i have to push brake paddle all the way in and it feels very loose and sometimes it feels like it will not be able to stop the car. I went in and checked everything again, could not find anything wrong. Any suggestions please.
Thanks