Hi guy's I'm new to this forum but I have done extensive research on this issue , I dont think i missed a thread on it if I have just lead me to it if not then please assist I'm going crazy trying to figure it out..
so brief background on this...

Bought the jag about a year ago slight transmission slip other than that everything else seemed fine.. little by little i was getting more and more hesitation from the motor then slight shaking .... as time went by problem continued to progress I figured it might have been misfiring due to bad plugs, went to the store got new plugs and both manifold seal top and bottom, on the way home it all of the sudden wouldent go past 3k RPM .
Got home removed all components fount almost all cylinders full of oil... dried up all the oil, cleaned each well then removed plugs put new ones on ,cleaned out and OHMS tested all coils , two were slightly low so got two new ones now all coils were good, did the same with injectors cleaned out and ohms tested all were fine changed all seals, did compression test 4 were good one slighly low (possible ring leak) and one slightly high (possible carbon build up) but nothing bad enough to make the car not go past 3k rpm .. put everything back together to torque spec did fuel pressure test it was fine.
Cranked it over still rough idle and wont go over 3k , i let it warm up and drove it down the street a few times... still same issue . put on the OBD II scanner, wrote down the codes , erased them started the car let it run , test drove again all the codes came back.. did this 5 times.... cleaned out the MAF with MAf cleaner... still no good. got new MAF still same issue... checked for vacuum leaks.. all good no leaks...
I just find it hard to believe that these many things can go wrong so quick.. maybe bad ECU??
here are the codes I got:
1) P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
2) P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
3) P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
4) P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
5) P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
6) P1314 Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Fault - Bank 2
7) P1316 Injector Circuit / IDM Codes Detected
8) P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
9) P0112 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input
10) P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
11) P0122 Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input
12) P0222 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Low Input
13) P1108 Dual Alternator Battery Lamp Circuit Malfunction
14) P1124 Throttle Position Sensor Out Of Self Test Range
15) P1229 Intercooler Pump Driver Fault
16) P1532 IMCC Circuit Malfunction, Bank B
17) P1549 IMCC Circuit Malfunction, Bank B
18) P1108 Dual Alternator Battery Lamp Circuit Malfunction (same up twice)
19) P1100 MAF Sensor Intermittent/ Check of all OBDII Systems Not Complete


PLEASE Help me with this .. Need my car back ..
Thanks guys!!

 

venumnos, based on the codes that you are seeing, I can only think of 2 things that could lead to something like that. The easier check is simply taking it to a shop to have them analyze the ECU to make sure that it is working properly.

The other problem is that the cable bundle running on the right side (near the brake booster) came in contact with something hot and you have damaged the wiring harness and what you are seeing is the wires shorting together, causing the computer to think things are really messed up. For this, you will need to look into the opening there near the brake booster and find the wiring bundle that is right there. Now, run your hand along the harness as far as you can and see if you can find any spot where the harness is damaged.

 

Some of those meanings look wrong - look 'em up using jag's info e.g. workshop manual (free download). Do not trust tools to get 'em right!

You also get the known causes, but go with Thermo's advice...

 

I guess one other thing could be the issue thinking about it. What i want you to try is parking the car overnight to let everything come to ambient temperature. Open the hood of the car and remove the cover off of the battery. Start the car and turn on the A/C (max, blow on as fast as it will go), rear defroster, seat heaters, and headlights. This will put a significant load on the electrical system. After about a minute, using the back of a finger, touch the positive post and the negative post of the battery (one at a time). Are they at ambient (even slightly above ambient) or are they blistering hot (hence why you use the back of a finger since you hand will instinctively pull away)? If they are at ambient, then your battery cables are fine. If they are hot, then you have a bad battery cable and that should be fixed before you go much further as a fluctuating voltage in the car can lead to some interesting fault indications with the ECU.

 

Thermo main wire harness seems to be just fine the only wire harness issue it has is almost all the plugs are breaking due to engine and florida heat.... but i made sure every cable connection even if broke was securely connected to each and every thing one by one.. .. as far as batt cable they are just fine.. i'm about to start working on it right now as we speak i'll ohms test them and i might go to the junk yard and pick me up a few good extras of each to swap them out and see.. if not then i'm going with the ECU I guess

 

do you have a link to this free download?

 

If you want it as a pdf file then here.

The service manual in pdf format.

Workshop Manual in PDF. (thanks to LCGI)

http://www.mediafire.com/download/xp...Manual.pdf.zip

 

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