Replaced the IMT seals today and cleared codes now everything is back to normal. This took about 15 minutes. Check the line to the power brakes and the PVC line, they are both in good shape.
Second job was the Remote door lock function. I had traced my problem to the sensor switch for the bonnet. I guess, last fall, when I was drying off under the bonnet after washing I had snagged the rubber boot that covers the switch and pulled it loose. The lip of the boot fits over the base of the switch and raises the height maybe a 1/16 inch or less. By putting the boot back in place the switch was raised back to the proper height so when the boot is close proper contact is made. Now I can use my remote to lock and unlock the doors again. To get the rubber boot back in place I had to remove the plate that the switch mounts in, because there not enough room to do it as mounted. To remove this you have to removed the 3 nuts at the top of the strut tower and 2 bolt on the fender. Then twist the plate to the side because it's also attached to the bracket for the coolant tank. You will have to do some finagling to get the plate past the bonnet strut anchor point, it's pretty tight there. After that you can get at the switch from underneath the plate and pop it loose. After the switch is loose it's fairly simple to put the rubber boot back in it's proper place.
I hope this helps anyone else with this door lock problem. Just check to see if this rubber boot is in place. Seems ridiculous that 1/16 inch or less in height would completely defeat the system. The way I discovered this fault was because it finally warmed up enough today that I could take the time to really look at it. With the bonnet open I pushed down on the switch with the rubber boot loose and tried the remote lock and it worked. I then closed the bonnet still with the boot loose and couldn't lock the doors with the remote. So I knew the switch was good but it simply wasn't making contact with the bonnet.