Need help just purchase this car and it will not pass Emission. There is no check engine light on the dash displaying. Tried to change the cluster and the car will not crank is there away to replace the bulb. So hard to get a good price on the cluster change out or replacement. Was told that car would have to be reprogrammed. Just need help with the check engine light not displaying.

 

Welcome to the forum Virtualmom1

I've moved your question from Jaguar Forums Advice / Feedback & Suggestion Center to X-Type forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.

When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see.

In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

Virtual, welcome to the forums. There is a wealth of information on here and a lot of friendly helpful people.

When you say it does not pas emissions do you mean because it is registering a fault code, yet there is no light showing up on the dash? If so, when you turn the key, but not start the car are there any lights that turn on, like a check engine light? And when you actually start the car there is no warning light on the dash? If so, there still might be a stored code. You can have that read at somewhere like Autozone for free. Get those numbers and post back on here and someone should be able to point you in the right direction.

 

Clusters have to be reprogrammed after being installed or the car wont start.

 

I'm pretty sure that if the radio fuse under the dash is blown the OBDII diagnostic port and check engine light won't work.

 

Why do you need to change the dash cluster? Although I have seen a couple threads about that, it is far and away the exception. Not something that fails very often on our cars. Reason I ask is that there might be something totally different at the root of your problem. The more information you can provide the better.

 

Virtualmom, I am assuming that you are not getting the check engine light to light. You can verify the bulb by simply putting the key into the ignition and turning it to the RUN position (do not attempt to start the car). This will force the light on. If it is not lighting then, you have a bad bulb and unfortunately, the "bulbs" are LEDs that are soldered to the main board.

If this is the case and you are sticking a new instrument cluster in, most likely it will need to be reprogrammed. If you can get the same year instrument cluster, then you may not need to get it programmed. But, that is not a garantee. It seems to be a bit hit and miss with our cars as to whether you will need to have it programmed or not.

 

When the car is started with the old cluster it will not crank. I do know now that it has to be programed for my car. But was told this may not be the Issue getting a P1638 code along with c1145? Nothing seems to work need help??

 

getting two code p1638-c1145 need to get corrected to pass emission? Check engine light will not display on the cluster?

 

C1145 doesn't have anything to do with emissions. That code indicates a bad or disconnected wheel speed sensor. I had one come disconnected once.

P1638 indicates trouble communicating with the instrument cluster. If you had it out perhaps you didn't get it reconnected correctly.

Both of those codes should turn on the CEL.

Check your wheel speed sensors and cluster connections, then try resetting the codes. Perhaps the comm error with the cluster is transient.

 

What Alfa said.

 

no the radio works fine have check all the fuses as well.

 

I went back and read your original post. I have to ask you some questions to get your current status:

1. is the car operable? Can you drive it?
2. Is the check engine light turned on? If so is the color yellow or red? If it is not turned on, how did you know you had trouble codes set? (I assume that means, if the check engine light is not on, then someone scanned it and said you had codes set?)
3. were you having Georgia emissions checks done, and your car failed because it has codes set and the check engine light is not on?

I'll tell you what happened to me once. I bought a car (not a Jag) and the check engine light was not on. It was not on because the unscrupulous person that sold me the car had removed the lamp, and there were trouble codes set. Always, always have a car scanned before you buy it. Autozone will do it for free, so will other parts houses. Have one reset your codes and see if they come back.

(by the way, and this has nothing to do with nothing, but if you get a P1000 trouble code on a Jag you can almost 100% of the time ignore it. I just basically means the self test cycle has not completed yet).

 

1. Car Drives
2. The check engine light will not display on cluster when turned on
3. Autozone did do a scan now I am down to 1 code- c1145
4. Emisson will not run the car until I get the c1145 off
5. next problem is the car still not showing ready need 4 - to become complete to pass emmission
6. Have drove over 160 miles will have to keep trying
7. Found out the lower control arm is broke - have to get sway bar on & replace abs on front right nice car pray it will pass

 

My lower control arms just went out too when I was changing the struts. A good place to look is ebay or amazon. The Raybestos are supposed to be good. Just get a new one because for about the same price as a used one you can get a new one. You might want to replace both sides. That won't have anything to do with emissions though. The wheel speed sensors are a little clip-in plug right behind the front brake rotors. You can check to see if they are plugged in all the way. You probably have to remove the wheel to do this, unless you can turn the wheel all the way to one side and reach in and find it. Other than that I don't know, you may want to check the radio fuse like he said.

 

The emissions police might WANT that C1145 off but it's got diddly to do with emissions. That is a bad or disconnected wheel speed sensor, which is probably the "replace abs" that you mentioned. I'd do two things before I replaced it... three things.. clean around the sensor end and sensor ring on the axle hub, disconnect and reconnect the connector (several times) and make sure you hear it click when you connect it, and lastly check the wires on that sensor end to end best you can to convince yourself the wire is not cut somewhere.

The car will be fine to drive with one bad wheel speed sensor. If you have two go out, I believe, then the speedometer will quit working. The computer uses an average of the wheel speeds to run the speedometer. It will still operate if it can average three readings. It will give up and call it a calf rope if it can only read two.

 

Thanks was able to get the Abs clean and all is working well.

 

Glad you got sorted Virtualmom!

Happy driving to you!!! Stu