Hi forum members, first post.

This is regarding my wife's 2003 Jaguar X Type 2.5.

About 8 months ago we noticed that the car would idle roughly upon startup, and when we'd pull out of the driveway, the brakes were very stiff. Around this time the CEL starting coming on, as well as the "Cruise Control Not Available" message.

I did research on this forum, and so far, I've done the following:
1. Replace old IMT O-Rings with new ones
2. Replace original PCV hose with new "ribbed" version
3. Replace brake booster hose with new one

After doing all of this, the CEL light and rough startup idle remained. I left it alone after that, since otherwise the car ran fine, and the rough idle went away during the summer, and life just gets busy.
However, it's been several months since the inspection sticker expired, and I'm worried my wife will get an expensive ticket if she gets pulled over.

I went back on this forum, and the last thing I just tried was to disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, but that did not work either.

I'm pretty much out of ideas, and hoping if someone could chime in with something I haven't tried or thought of.

Note: About two years ago, I replaced the rotors and brake pads on the car. Although I did not notice any issues then, I know I didn't follow the protocol required for doing that on this car to the letter. Not sure if maybe that might have something to do with it.

Please let me know your thoughts, and thank you for your time.

 

Dredd, get a scanner put on the car and post up what code(s) you are getting. That will help us narrow down what your most likely problem is. Granted, 2 things are coming to mind. It may very well be that you have a vacuum leak coming from the intake o-rings. There are 6 uppers and 6 lower o-rings. While you are doing those, it would be a good time to check the spark plugs for sign of oil down around the plugs. This can cause the car to run rough and give you what you are seeing. You can buy the o-rings for around $50 for all 12. Then it is about 2 hours of wrenching to put them all in.

 

Thanks Thermo, I'm going to AutoZone tomorrow to get the codes.

Also, would you happen to have the part-number or a picture of those 12 o-rings you're referring to?

I just looked in Google for "Jaguar X Type Intake O-rings", but all I get are results for the IMT O-Rings, which are a set of 2, and the Intake Manifold Gasket sets, which are a set of 6.

Are those the ones that you're referring to?

 

There is an upper and lower intake set, each set has 6 gaskets
I believe they are called intake manifold set and intake plenum set.
They are available most everywhere.

Stiff brakes sounds like the brake booster valve is bad or clogged.
After it sits, try pulling the vac line off the brake booster chamber.
It should be in there with a lot of vacuum pressure.
It should be hard to pull out because of the vacuum.
It is rare, but sometimes the booster chamber can rust and leak.

 

Thanks innzane, and yeah, after several even more forum threads and looking up more information online, it finally dawned on me that there are two sets of gaskets/seals for the intake.

I'll be ordering those shortly.

Also, I went to AutoZone, and they read a total of 12 fault codes (YIKES!!!)

P0171/P0174 - Bank1 and Bank2 have rich or lean condition. I figure this is due to a vacuum leak.

P0300/0301/0302/0303/0305 - Possible spark plug misfire and/or vacuum leak

P1316/P1316 - Cat damage/ignition coil/misfire issue

P0420/P0430 - Cat defective/detecting lean or rich condition

P1111 - Readiness code

The car has never had a tune-up done, which is where I will start, and see if that takes away some of the fault codes, or all of them.

I am upset because I replaced the IMT O-rings, the brake booster hose, and the PCV hose, but that didn't seem to do the trick. However, I'm suspicious of the quality of the brake booster hose I bought. Honestly, I bought the cheapest one out there, and looking back, I'm not sure that was wise.

Anywho, my next step is to take it to the shop, get a smoke test done, to see if there are any leaks. And then do the tune-up for sure.

Will provide an updated after this is done.

 

The gasket replacement was not too bad to do, a couple bolts in the back holding the harness were iffy to reach, but the rest was normal.

It made my car run much better but did not clear my p0174 codes.

If you clear the codes the misfires codes may stay away.
The cat codes are scary because of the cost.

 

Upper and lower intake manifold gaskets

 

Ok, so I replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, and replaced the spark plugs.

I tried replacing the fuel filter, but I accidentally broke the clips on the upper hose retaining clip, so I wasn't able to replace it. I'll take it to a mechanic for that.

After the tuneup, my wife turned on the car this morning, and the car did not idle roughly, and the brakes were not stiff, so that is very good news.

However, the check engine light still remains.

At this point, what is the best way to remove the codes so I can see which codes, if any, come back on?

I've read that removing the battery cables for 15 minutes, or just waiting for 3 cold/hard start/stop cycles will do it.

I tried removing the battery cables last night, but that didn't work.

I ask because the inspection is WAAAAAAAAAY past due, so the sooner we can clear the codes, and get it in for inspection, the better.

Thanks.

 

dredd, if you removed the battery terminal and then are still getting code(s), then you stil have a problem somewhere. I would say to get the codes read again and see what you have now. The disconnecting of the battery should have wiped all the codes out. So, all you will have are new codes.

Let us know what the codes are now and we can give you some helpful hints. Granted, I would start with using a little bit of starting fluid to spray the IMT valves and the brake booster check valve to see if you are getting leakage there. I would also say to spray the vacuum lines coming off the top of the intake. These intake vacuum lines seem to be a common problem as of late.

 

Ok, so I took it to the mechanic after doing the tuneup, and he cleared the codes for me. While there I was then able to replace the fuel filter as well.

After he cleared the codes, I took it to the inspection station one more time, but it failed again. UUUUGGHHHHHHHH.

The inspection guy told me that it triggered fault code P0171, and apparently, only that one. The P0174 did not trigger.

When I got home, turned on the car one more time and put my ear by the IMT Valves, the brake booster hose and I finally heard what sounded like a hiss coming from where the booster hose meets the intake.

I put some general purpose sealant around the entrace where they meet, and turned the car back on, but no change. Also, I had never done this, but I revved up the engine, and sure enough, it starts to hesitate when I'm at 3000 rpm, and doesn't go beyond that. What's more, the Cruise Control Not Available has come back one. The good thing is that several of the other codes are gone, like the spark plug misfires. The old ones looked baaaaad!

Thermo, I saw your suggestion to spray starter fluid by the IMT Valves and the brake booster and intake hose, but I'm a little apprehensive about doing that, because I read that there is a danger it could catch fire. Is that true?

Additionally, any other suggestions you guys might have based on my observations?

Thanks for all the assistance so far.

 

dredd, there is a certain amount of danger in spraying the starter fluid. But, as long as you do this outside and you keep flames away from the engine bay, all will be fine. If you are still not sure, then you can get yourself a 4 foot piece of 1/4" tygon tubing and put one end near your ear (keep it slightly away, want to make sure you DO NOT!!!! form a seal between your ear and the tubing) and run the other end near all the joints of the intake. If you hear the sucking sound again, then you have a leak at that point. This will allow you to reach areas that you couldn't even think about putting your ear.

 

Sounds like you need a brake booster, which is pretty cheap and all of a couple minutes to replace. I hope whatever sealant you put where the brake booster meets the intake can be removed cleanly because to remove it you push down on the black plastic coupling in the intake and the hose will just pop out. If there is sealant in there and gummed it up so you can get it to release it might be a pain to get it to seal back up again properly. Good luck! Hope you get this resolved soon.

 

Hey guys, ok, I finally got the courage to try the starter fluid on all the original suspects, but there was no change in the idle of the car. However, I did notice the following:
There is some type of vacuum hose that connects to the intake, right behind the throttle body. It looks just like the connection where the brake booster hose meets the intake. I noticed when I applied starter fluid there that it dried up almost immediately.

In the other locations (IMT Valve, brake booster hose, PCV valve, etc.), the fluid remained for some while before it dried up.

So I finally found a tygon hose lying around in my garage, and put it to my ear. Sure enough, there was a definite hiss coming from that connection where that hose meets the intake. To compare, I also put the hose on the IMT Valves, and the brake booster hose. There was also a slight hiss where the brake booster hose meets the intake.

So it looks like those are the two spots where air is leaking in.
However, this brings up a question for me. What is the purpose of that vacuum hose that connects to the intake right behind the throttle body? What is it called? At the other end it has an electrical connector that seems to connect to an electrical harness of some kind by the firewall.

I suspect that the issue could actually be the connector that's in the intake, where the hose is inserted. I looked in Google and found the following, which I think is the replacement part:

New Jaguar s Type x Type Booster Adapter Genuine C2S 15816 | eBay

I notice it has an O-ring, and I wonder if perhaps the old O-ring has deteriorated? Bottom line: Even if that's the problem, how would I go about removing the old one? It looks really in there, and when I removed the intake when I did the tuneup, I noticed there's no access to it from underneath the intake.

Any suggestions would be really appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

Doubt the insets would be bad, but an o-ring replacement is fairly easy.
I started with p0171 and no cruise message, still searching, still paying a monthly fee each time my car fails the emissions.

Thanks for keeping us updated.

 

Hey guys, good news!

So after putting sealant all around where those two vacuum hoses that connect to the intake yesterday morning, and then turning on the car, I did not see a change at first. The CEL was still on. My wife and I used the car several times during the day.

Then, late last night, when I went to back the car out of a friend's driveway because someone else was leaving, I noticed.....that the CEL was gone

I did a memory review of the day's events, and I realized that since I put the sealant on the car, it had been started and turned off at least three times. On the fourth start/stop cycle is when the CEL went away. To be sure, when we got home and I parked it in the driveway, I revved it up, and this time it revved past 3000 RPM and there was no hesitation.

My wife just turned it on right now to go to work, and sure enough, no CEL!!

All in all, I think we're out of the woods, finally. She's going to drive it today to get some mileage past when the CEL was turned off, and if it's still off by tomorrow, I'll take it once again to get the codes read, and if there aren't any, I'll go to the inspection station once more.

I'll keep you guys posted!

Note: I'm still going to buy those intake booster hose connector kits tomorrow, and keep them handy, since I figure it's only a matter of time before the sealant I put all around the connectors fails.

BTW, thank you all for the wonderful advice so far, and for the hand-holding. I appreciate the patience ya'll have with new members.

 

Hope you can get it passed. However, if you still couldn't rev it past 3000 rpms after you used the sealant and now after a few driving cycles it could mean the problem is intermittent and could come back. Good idea to change out those parts when they come in.

Glad it's working for you now.

 

Wish I had at least the tease of the cel clearing when I sealed them on my car.

I wonder what would happen if I 'flex sealed' the entire engine, it stopped my toilet tank from leaking ( in my house, the one in the car is fine

But I think I will buy some goop and start hitting some areas, smoke test only showed signs around the TB.

Grats on your victory!!!

 

I have a 2002 X-type with the 2.5. I too am experiencing similar (if not exact) symptoms with my engine as Dredd. I sealed the top of the manifold vacuum lines with RTV but my check engine light is still on. This morning I started it when it was cold outside and it idles like garbage. The engine warmed up and it smoothed out, but I cold hear it backfire in the intake as it was warming up every now and again. My CEL started blinking again, so I expect I have to get more codes read. Currently there were only the P0420 and P0430. Good work on your success Dredd! I still need to get some parts and my CEL read again.