Hi, my son has a 2003 2.5 x-type. Car runs great and really like it but I am now at wits end with this one problem that nobody can seem to resolve. the car has been running on a rejected inspection sticker for almost one year.

The problem is i have the following tests that are still incomplete.
- Components (supposedly this should be ready immediately)
- Catalyst
- Evap System
- O2 sensor

All others are ready or not available (must not pertain to car as they are greyed out). I have tried to do all of the driving tests. I have taken it into Woburn Jag (who are now closed) and other garages and still no luck. Woburn Jag did fix a vaccuum leak about 6 months ago, I also replaced cracked t-stat about that time as well as car was not getting up to temp. Woburn Jag talked about re-flashing computer, but that has not been done and now they are closed. I have reset and the module and these 4 monitors never get ready. The car has been driven about 2500 miles in that time with many attempts at doing the recommended drive cycles.

Any ideas, I am willing to pay to get it fixed. I like the car and it runs great, but I am really getting close to just selling it.

Thanks so much

Rob

 

Rob, first off, welcome to the forums. Lots of useful information here and tons of people willing to help out out. But, please stop by the New Member Section and tell us a little bit about yourself and your car. We pride ourselves in being a better car group. This will also give you a chance to meet those that make this place what it is.

As for your problem, what you are describing almost sounds like the ECM/ECU is not maintaining its battery power which will erase the stored memory every time you shut the car off. What I would recommend you do is to look on e-bay and get yourself an "ELM 327 bluetooth module" (see e-bay listing 2014 Latest V 2 1 Mini ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2 OBD II Diagnostic Scanner V2 1 | eBay). You install this into the OBD port under the dash and then using an Android phone (sorry, cannot use an iPhone), you run an app called "Torque" (free app) and this will allow you to read the real time codes for the car and it will also give you real time data for the car too. You can then take the car out for a 20 mile drive doing a fair number of stops and gos to get the car through its checks. If you can get the app to give you a "P1111" code under the pending codes before you shut the car off, this would confirm the lack of battery power to the ECU/ECM.

If you are still having issue, let us know and we will provide some more guidance.

 

Thanks Chris, I have the module and Tourque, it is a great app! I can never get them complete or get the P1111, always P1000.

 

I have also pulled fuse f32 and a couple of others and all look good

 

Has it had any codes? If so, which ones & what did the freeze frame data show?

Any work done apart from the vacuum leak? Parts replaced? Particularly think about those involved in running a modern car engine (see below).

Any accidents or aftermarket items especially electrical?

Are there any pending codes?

Any other clues? (Might be sounds, drivability, ...)

It's worth looking at live data for all major sensors to check each is plausible. Hints about how a modern car works OnBoardDiagnostics.com - Engine Basics

Note: your engine is if anything more complex and the software especially so. Your (and my) laws require this.

What are fuel trims, hot engine, parked, both banks, at idle & about 2500rpm?

EVAP probably has awkward constraints such as fuel 15-85%, no sloshing, overnight stand.

Are you at a high altitude (over 5000 ft)?

 

rlefig, if you have the ELM unit, then have someone drive the car as you play with the phone. Like was mentioned, check the "Pending Codes" as the car is running, not just the Stored codes. then start looking at all the data that you and see if you can spot something that looks odd or different from a similar component (ie, if bank 1 sensor is reading say 0.5 VDC and band 2 sensor is reading say 0.1 VDC, that will tell us a lot. Worst case, write down what you are seeing and hopefully that will tell us something.

 

it does have pending codes, they are
p1000
and I also have c1145, c1155, c1165, and c1175 that are all related to ABS. the ABS does not work and brakes will "rattle" until the ABS warning light comes on in dash. When the warning light comes on these codes are generated.

I am not at any altitude in Boston area, at idle vaccum is 20.5, temp is 203, throttle 2.4 and rev 700-725

I took two freeze frames one at idle and one at a stand still running 2500 rev both showed the same

Freeze frame report generated by Torque for Android
================================================== =======
Vehicle VIN: SAJEA51D83XD39011
Vehicle Manufacturer: Jaguar
Vehicle Calibration ID: JA2003FJ6MAA0c
Freeze frame information:
------------------
Fuel Status = 0 byte
Engine Load = 0 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = -40 °F
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term = -100 %
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = -100 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term = -100 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term = -100 %
Fuel pressure = 0 psi
Intake Manifold Pressure = 0 psi
Engine RPM = 0 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 0 km/h
Intake Air Temperature = -40 °F
Mass Air Flow Rate = 0 g/s
Throttle Position(Manifold) = 0 %

End of report.

woburn jag repaired vaccuum leak at intake manifold causing p0171 and p0174 they replaced upper and lower intake manifold seals and brake booster tube.

On another note there is a weird buzz that happens every couple of seconds almost near glove box, it is very faint but it audible.

hope this helps. I don't see much else on scanner besides what i noted

 

You'll need live data e.g. to check fuel trims.

 

rlefig, you are not reaching P1111 because of the C codes. It is sounding like you have a problem with your ABS computer. That or you have blown a fuse to the ABS computer.

I would be checking fuses F3 in the engine compartment fuse box (should be a 60 amp fuse) and fuse F96 in the passenger compartment fuse box 7.5 amp fuse). Either one of these being out can cause the ABS computer to do funny things. After that, if both fuses are good, then you are dealing with a connector issue possibly. You will want to remove the plug to the computer and then see what you see. All the pins should be a shiny silver color, not a dull gray/rust color.

If you are still having issues, then it may be that your ABS computer has failed and that is what is causing your issues. Granted, if the ABS computer went, you should be getting a few other codes. So, I am not suspecting the computer at this moment.

 

I will look at those Thermo, but would that cause all the other components to not be ready?

 

both the F3 and F96 fuses look good. I will check the connector to the computer once I figure out how to

 

is there a link to access ecu? I am searching it now

 

rlefig, remove the wipers from your car (at the nut at the end of the wiper arm). From there, open the hood and remove the 4 fasteners holding the cowl in place and remove the cowl. From there, if you go to the bottom corner of the windshield on the passenger side (for you), the ECU is right there.

 

sorry i did not see it in there. I removed the wiper arms and plastic cowl removed cabin air filter and its housing and saw the blower motor but the opening was so small maybe 10 inches long by 2 inches wide that I could not see much of anything else

 

Just came from the motorist assistance center in Massachusetts and they were very helpful.

He does not know much about Jag's but think the C1145, 1155, 1165 and 1175 codes could be causing the ECU not to proceed with other tests. Not sure if this is the case. He also got a P1582 code which I never saw. He states that the rear O2 sensor are fluctuating between instead of staying flat at .5 and believes this could be failing Cat converters. But not sure since we can not complete that test.

The options are to see if I can get the ABS issue resolved and see if the Readiness proceed and hope that it finds nothing else. Or get rid of the car.

His opinion is that it most likely will be other things wrong and that is is best to get rid of it.

The cat's scare me I don't want to dump in $1000+

Thoughts and thanks

 

rlefig, code P1582 is simply a code to tell you that your car captured data for a technician to look at and see if it may help with the problem diagnosis. I say give the car a little more and see if you can get rid of the C Codes you currently have and then take things from there.

Would a set of diagrams for your car help? If so, PM me and I will send you a set.