140psi hi, 75 low side. Checked all fuses, all fine. Can take out fuse 5, and when I put it back in, can hear compressor kick on. Everything seems good. Car was babied, is in fine shape everywhere.

Recommendations?

 

Need more information..

 

Air is not cold. Everything runs, what info do you need?

 

Probably a bad compressor..(valves bad)

Did this all of a sudden happen on it's own?..
Was somebody screwing around with it that didn't know what they were doing?..
What is the outside temp?
Did you drive it like this or is this the condition sitting in the driveway?

Get the picture....More information


here is Pressure-Temp chart for R134a
Normal high side pressures should be about 155 psi to 200 psi depending on if your moving or standing still at 2000 rpm.
and normal low side pressure should be around 30 psi to 40 psi depending on how hot it is inside the car at 2000 RPM..Fan on high speed, recirculate OFF.

 

75psi on the low side is too high, and high side a little low. This condition usually indicates an expansion valve stuck open. Not sure if the car has an expansion valve or fixed orfice.

Edit: Did some checking and yes it uses an expansion device. Part is cheap. However an expansion device sticking may indicate a contaminated system. I would recommend a system flush.

 

It's the Ford system, so no expansion valve but a fixed orifice. It's probably the compressor and it may be the valves, I remember some problem with them.

 

Yer right Tony..Bad Compressor usually means the valves went out..the compressor can't suck or build pressures..Higher than normal Suction Pressure and lower than normal Discharge Pressure = BAD VALVES.

Also, a Restricted Fixed Orifice or even if it was an expansion valve (TEV) doesn't matter which..the Suction pressure would be VERY low...and discharge pressure would be low also or about normal.

 

My bad, did a google search and expansion valves came up. I do agree, could be bad valve in comp. But before you go replacing the comp, try this TB first. Cost you nearly nothing if you do it yourself. There was an issue with control valve degradation.

 

75 outside, car purchased last fall, no work done on this at all, first time she turned it on, it did this, idling in drive is where I tested the hi and lo sides.

 

Erik..It sounds as though the Compressor is bad as described above...

The question begs to be asked....Did you test the A/C last fall when you bought it, or I should ask; BEFORE you bought it?..if you got it from a Dealer, maybe they'll honor a fix for you..

 

Bought it just after the heat was gone for the summer. Never ran it, that I know of...Thinking of having them check the # of lbs in the system as I can't tell...

 

No one can tell how much Refrigerant is actually in the system..even when it's running correctly and yours is not..

Somewhere in the engine area should tell how much there is suppose to be..a rough guess is about 28oz of R134a

 

I had the exact same problem with mine and ended up burning the clutch as well. I should have just replaced it from the start

 

I'm going with the concensus here that your compressor is worn out or damaged.
When you replace it you'll need to replace the receiver drier up under the right front fender as well. I would not take one apart without at least cleaning if not replacing the orifice tube, too. I posted pictures in this forum describing the receiver springlock connector and the location of the orifice tube. Not that easy to reach but not the end of the world either.

The label on the fender of ours says refrigerant load is supposed to be 1 lb, 12.8 oz. R-134a. And R-134a cans I have are 12 oz each. So you'll need about 2 and 1/2 cans with the loss you'll see switching cans on the manifold.. Good luck with the remaining 1/2 can.

 

Just a couple of other things to consider - are you sure the air blend flap is operating correctly and not stuck in a hot/warm position? Also, when the system is running, does the A/C pipework running across the top of the firewall stay warm or get cool or ice cold?

 

Hi Astro, we didn't go there with him on that because we need to get his pressure readings normal. With a low side reading of 75 psi the coldest air he could expect at the registers is 72 degrees F/ 23 degrees C.

 

Long story short, she put in a new compressor and it ran fine for a week then failed. $600 bucks gone. Mechanic said he thought it may be the shrader valve, said he had some issues with it, so, we had it back, worked fine for a bit, then stopped again. Back in, again, same.

I'm going to talk to him again about this, but, is it possible that the expansion device is bad or evap/drier issues?