Ok. Just a bit of backstory.
about 4 weeks ago had a blowout. Came home on the spacesaver with no issues.
Due to being busy with work car stood for four weeks.
Went up to garage for mot via tyre place for new tyre..... when I started car dash lit up like Blackpool illuminations..... no speedo no cruise control abs light suddenly on....
Tyre place said looks like battery charge low.
Mot.....fail.... small bit of welding, rear anti roll bar bushes and droplinks, exhaust had popped off bracket.... and abs light.... nice quick repair sorted....
No chance. Garage says it tried reset on abs but got error code P1637 and P100..... and tell me they can't fix it!!!!
Can bus error but could it still be caused by low battery charge as had no issues or lights when car parked up.....
Garage just telling me can't mot car til its done but they dont have the diagnostic...... so planning getting key back tomorrow and going up Garage sunday when they are shut to have a root around to try and find a cause and run car for a good half hour to charge battery up.....Garage Garag5 minute drive from me so would not have boosted charge enough.....
​​​​​​any guides or ideas where to look for the problem. Only have basic ob2 reader but just going on fact I had no issues when I parked up that its the battery charge......
anyone have any other ideas?

 

Check battery voltage after car sat overnight and not started. If lower than say 12.6V that's the #1 suspect.

Be SURE to add your CAR DETAILS, too! We're not mind readers...

 

Car has been up garage since Tuesday so doubt its been started. Picking key up off them today so I can have a look at it sunday when they are shut.... battery def my first port of call....
apologies. Car a 2007 2.2 diesel x type jag estate.

 

Totally, the big give away here for me is 2 things: P1637 code and loss of speed indication. The loss of speed indication is telling me that atleast 2 speed probes are not making it to/thru (thru being the more likely story here) the ABS unit to the instrument cluster. So, your instrument cluster fails to zero to indicate you have a problem. Since you mention that you only had 1 tire blow, the likelihood of having 2 sensors fail is unlikely. The P1637 code is also specific to a CAN Bus wiring issue between the ABS unit and the ECM (which feeds the signal on to the instrument cluster). So, based on the loss of speed and the CAN bus error code, I am placing money that you are going to get told that your ABS unit is bad and will need to be replaced. As for why the ABS module failed at the same time as the wheel blow out, I cannot speak to that other than if you had a failure of the right front wheel (the ABS unit is mounted directly above the wheel) and it may be possible parts of the tire hit the wiring and damaged it. This is where careful inspection of the wiring in the area of the failed tire is going to need to be done to correct any potential side effects as this may be causing another indication (ie, damaged wiring in/near the wheel well has damaged 2 wheel speed sensors, but this should be throwing C1145/1155/1165/1175 error codes if it was just damaged wiring for the sensors).

 

What is pushing me to a new battery first before sensors is that the issue only showed up after car stood nearly 4 weeks the drive home after blowout about 30/40 miles and no abs light on and no other issues. Currently I am crossing fingers on the battery being flat and being the culprit. Butsensor wiring next port of call after battery.
will keep everyone posted.

 

Garage really getting on my nerves.... said after mot last Tuesday no lights were on til I drove up for mot and battery was low.... so said battery likely cause.... garage then says when it tried to run scan it said battery too low so they put booster pack on to scan.... I said I would get new battery for them to get other jobs done for mot and then disconnect battery to clear all the codes.... went up today. Still no jobs done. Told me they charged battery and p1637 code and abs light still on.... asked if battery had been disconnected.... he said no we charged it.... so tried to explain it physically had to be disconnected to wipe old codes. He looked at me blank and said abs light still on..... now says car wont be done til after Christmas..... feel like I am banging my head against a brick wall.....

 

Battery off won't clear codes.

 

I thought battery off for about half hour resets ecu and loses any stored codes? Or at least have seen that listed elsewhere?

 

No, because it would allow easy cheating for smog/MoT.

 

No would make it worse for mot as emissions would need to be re learnt....so all the posts on resetting are false then? So when low battery throws up error codes how do you reset,?

 

Totally, I think we have a bit of a "misunderstanding" going on here. If you read the service manual, it will state that removing power to the ECU (whether via a fuse pull or disconnecting the battery) will cause any stored data inside the ECU to be erased. Hence why technicians ask that you don't reset the codes via the battery. Now, with this being said, because the ECU has lost all data, it now has to relearn. Step 1 of this process is throwing what is known as the "P1000" code (ie, emissions have not been checked and verified to be functioning properly). So, immediately upon starting the car, you are going to have atleast 1 error code (P1000). Because you only disconnected power and reapplied, there is a high probability that your original error codes are still there. But, what this does do and prevents erroneous codes (those that happened awhile back) from misleading you and making you think you have more issues than you really do. The "good" thing about the P1000 code is that it will not cause the check engine light if that is the only error code being seen. When it comes to MOT/safety checks, most places look for the P1111 code which is saying that the car has been driven far enough to have all the system monitors be able to do their checks and all points have come back good. Does this take 5 miles, 20 miles, 100+ miles, depends on the car and how you drive. There is no magical "drive 20 miles and the P1111 code will come in" process I am aware of. The P1111 needs to see a certain number of coasts from like 45 MPH to 20 MPH, so many brakings, so many accelerations to a certain RPM range before a shift, etc. This is where driving in town is your best bet for getting to a P1111 code as quickly as possible.

One last thing to help provide clarification. Once an error code is triggered, it will cause the check engine light to come on. The check engine light will remain on until 1 of 2 conditions are met: 1) code is reset through some means (but may come back on immediately if the problem still persists), or 2) the problem has been cleared AND the car has been driven 5 drive cycles (normally a drive cycle is more than 10,000+ revolutions of the engine for each start of the engine) with the problem not reappearing at any time during these drives. Then on the 6th start the check engine light will go out. Note, I have not said that the error code is gone from the ECU for condition 2. Hence why some will say to clear the codes and then see what comes back. This way you know what the current problems are as the computer sees them. This can also help prove/disprove a battery problem as the problems will come and go if you do multiple resets where if you have a hard fault, it will show up every time.

 

Battery off clears learned values but those aren't codes.

Things like fuel trims, app pedal min/max, status of each OBD monitor.

 

Totally,

I have moved your thread from the General Tech forum to the forum for the X400, which is the Jaguar factory project code for your 2007 X-Type.

You are receiving great help from some of our best gurus. Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thank you....

 

Not sure if this helps, but I have been chasing the gearbox fault, and got a flat tire. Running about 20 miles into the trip on the doughnut, and my car kicked into the 2000 rpm limp mode as well. Not sure if that helps anyone on this page, but kind of related.

Will the dissimilar size of the doughnut throw a code?

Ronk

 

Not if it's the correct size as supplied by Jaguar on build

 

I picked the car up used, but I am assuming that it is the factory spare.

Ron

 

a dissimilar size tire can be a big big problem as the car is all wheel drive.
the biggest no no with 4x4 or AWD.
it will likely cause all kinds of computer related issues not to mention physical damage to a lot of components in the drivechain.
put the correct tire on asap
all 4 tires need to match, thats could likely be the root cause of these issues

 

Back again.

The transmission fault, ABS, DSC and brake fault have been an issue for about 8 months. In the midst of this issue I ran over a roofing nail which caused me to put on my safety spare.

In the 30 miles or so the safety spare was on, that is when i got the second limp mode where the pedal does not respond and the car stays at 2000 rpm.
I brought it home turned o off for 20 minutes, and when i came back it was fine.

 

Not sure if this will help anyone here, but here goes.

DSC error and possible work around

I was looking into how to disable the red gear box and stuck in 4th limp mode. I came across a bulletin that stated if you hold down the DSC button for 10-15 seconds it would disable it. I am not near the car this week to try it, so I figured I would toss it out before I forgot about it.

Has anyone tried it or know more about it?

​​​​​​​Ronk