I have had my car to the shop twice for issues with the ABS & check engine lights, even after they are cleared they reappear. The following codes gave displayed:
C1175
C1145
C1165
C1155
I understand these are for wheel speed sensors

ABS:
C1137
C1122
C1236
Have been advised the car will require an ABS "computer" and possiblt wheel speed sensors, no estaimte on cost yet.
Any thoughts??

 

What year and model?

 

Sorry
2002 3.0lt 72K
Just talked to the mechanic cost of new ABS computer/modulator $1500.00 at that cost probly not worth repairing!!

 

Did some additional research. looks like this part is available used for around $200.00 or there is a good posibility it could be a broken speed sensor ring on the rear CV joint ?? Wonder why the mechanic did suggest that?

 

Leo, let me get home and see what information I have on this problem. It may be that the computer is toast since you have failures on multiple wheels all at the same time (assumption here). Granted, it could also be something as silly as the wiring harness got damaged by being pinched between something.

I would go with a used computer. For the cost difference, it would be well worth your time/money.

 

I have a similar problem as well. My abs is off when i start the car, but when i am backing up or turning the wheel, the light comes on. If i start the car and go straight without turning the wheel, the light donesn't come on. The car doesn't have to be in motion; if i am in my garage and i turn the wheel quickly, the lights will come on until i turn the car off.

I am currently in the process of examining all the sensors, wires, and sensor rings to find the problem. Why does the light only come on after i turn the wheel?

 

Leo, looking at the 4 wheel speed sensor codes, those all say that the sensors have been shorted to battery voltage or grounded (would need to do voltage checks to know for sure). But, because you have all 4 wheels doing the same thing, I would say that you can ignore those codes as they are a symptom, not a problem. So, that leaves the last 3. The C1236 and C1137 point to a failed computer.

With this being said, have your recently hit anything or had anything get up into the front passenger wheel well area? I ask this as the ABS module is located between the bumper and the wheel well. If you had something get up into that area, you could have damaged the harness going to the computer. Along those same lines, it would probably be advisable to remove the connector off of the ABS module and blow it out really good. It is possible you simply got some water inside of the connector and that is shorting things out. If you have some mechanical ability, if you can get your hands on a new computer, you can change out the ABS module yourself. The hardest part will be accessing the computer which should be nothing more than removing the plastic tray from under the car (requires a 10mm wrench and a T27 torx bit), then you can reach up under the bumper and go after the ABS module (not sure what it takes to pull that down, probably some phillips screws).

If you did have something get under that corner of the car, you may want to do a hand over hand of the wiring to see if you have any issues. If you do, it will be fairly obvious where the problem lies. If in doubt, snap a picture of the problem area and I will take a look at it.

Hope this helps you get things straightened out.

 

rycy, as for why you get the light after turning the steering wheel, what is happening is as you turn the steering wheel, the tires are rotating slightly and the sensors are seeing the bearing inside of the wheel move. This is enough to have the computer see a change in a wheel. Due to the nature of your problem, because it is seeing a wheel move, but the others not moving, it triggers the code. That is about all that I can figure out. Granted, that sounds awfully sensitive in my book. BUt, with having issues, depending on the fault, that is possible too.

 

I ordered a uded ABS computer/modulator from a web based dealer (autopartsfair) it wasnt to expencice ($142.00) I will keep you posted.
I did try unplugging and using compressed air to clean it, but no change. (I did get a "gearbox" fault when I started it with the computer unplugged, went away when I replugged and restarted.

 

What is entailed in changing this module? Is it just a matter of unplugging the harnes and the 6 lines going to the unit and reconnecting the new unit? Will disconnecting the hard lines introduce air into the system and necessitate bleeding all of the brake lines?

 

Leo, let me double check, but the ABS computer and the ABS module are 2 different items. One is nothing more than 2 plugs and unbolting it from the body of the car. The other will involve breaking the brake lines and putting in a new modulator valve. And yes, this will involve doing a bleed on all wheels to remove any air that may have been introduced.

 

I hope I didnt order the wrong part, I was told the ABS computer/module are one unit. It has 6 hard lines that go into it as well as a large multi pin plug on the side.

 

Leo, I guess I am wrong. Normally they are two different units. But, on this car they are one in the same. So, take your time, make sure to do a good feed and bleed of the brakes and all will be good.

 

ABS computor replaces, CV joint & reluctor replaced, runs great now, so the next issue will be transfer case maintainance.