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Hi everyone
I have a battle with ABS on my x type 2.2 Diesel 2005 nearly give up.
Recently has been check :
ABS wheels sensors and wiring .
ABS module was swop with the same parts numbers from car with out this problem .
after scan by Delphi ds 150 there is code:
C1310 Brake hydraulic pressure transducer front left circuit l fault
C1315 Brake hydraulic pressure transducer rear left wheel signal fault .
C 1313 Brake hydraulic pressure transducer front right wheel signal fault
C2202 front passenger seat track position switch open short to ground- checked this didn't fount any shorts .
Front fog lights not working , no icon on dash board , main light switch checked and replacement with second one , nothing (rear ok)
Front parking sensors not working (rear ok)
Can I ask for any advice please .
Mercury, lets try a few things to see if we can put a little bit of clarity to the problem. The first check is going to be whether your main (high) beams work. Simply park the car in front of a wall and pull the turn signal stalk back at you. Do the lights change over to the main beams? If they do, then your fog light issue is most likely related to a blown fuse F2 in the engine bay fuse box. If this does not correct the situation, I want you to swap relays R1 and R2. Does this restore the fog lights? If yes, then the relay that you have in the R2 spot is bad and will need to be replaced (you now will not have a horn unless you swap the relays back). If swapping the relays does not change anything, then odds are you have a fuse box issue as the relay that powers both the front fog lights and the main beams is powered directly off the battery buss inside the fuse box (ie, no fuse between the battery and this relay).
Now, for the next issue, the front parking sensors. What I want you to do is start the car and put it in reverse (keep the car sitting still). Now, reach up and hit the button to (de)activate the front parking sensors. When you push the button, does a light turn on and off? If yes, then we know that the system has power and a needed ground is connected. Next, with the aide of a second person (or the car backed up to a curb or the wheels chocked properly), put the car into reverse and put your ear next to all 8 parking sensors. You should definitely hear a high pitched chirp/squeal from the 4 rear sensors (since this part of the system is working). Do you hear the same chirp from any of the front sensors? Are only 3 of the 4 chirping? If so, then the quiet sensor is bad and will need to be replaced. If the front sensors are quiet, then you either have a bad wire between the parking sensors and the parking aide module (located in the trunk/boot by spare tire) or the parking aide module is bad.
Now, for the ABS system. More information is needed here. First thing, is the last six digits of your VIN before or after J12991 (ie, is it say D12345 (this would be before) or M54321 (after))? Secondly, is your car equipped with dynamic Stability Control (DSC, indicated by a button next to the e-brake)?
My feeling is that your problem is more located inside the metal block that has the brake lines running to it than the ABS module itself. But ,this is a logical leap that I am making based on the codes that you are getting what what those sensors would be measuring. I also find that the codes that you are getting are not associated with a Jaguar vehicle. From what I can tell, your car does have DSC because you are talking about C13XX codes which Jaguar reserves for DSC issues. So, it may be possible that your real problem lies with the DSC module, not the ABS module if it is truly computer based. But I am still putting my money on the mechanical block for the ABS unit.
As for the seat issue, this may be related to the parking sensor issue believe it or not. Does the seat move at all? If the seat does not move at all, then I want you to get into the left footwell area (passenger side for you) and remove the plastic trim piece there. Buried in there should be a ground point. If you follow these wires back, 1 of the wires will go to the module for the front passenger seat and the other to the push button for the front parking sensors. Remove the bolt holding the grounds in place and clean up all the lugs to make them silver in color again. Make sure to do both sides of each lug. Then, using the wire size as a general guide, put the biggest wires on the bottom and the smaller wires on top and re-land all these wires. See if your parking sensor and seat issue is clear. If the seat issue is still there, let me know and I will send you the instructions I have for how to troubleshoot the C2202 issue. In short, it has you doing a bunch of resistance checks between a connector under the seat and out to the sensor and back to the computer.
Hi Thermo
First, please accept my big thank you for a help witch you provided.
You are the first person sacrifice your time and knowledge for my problem .Thank you I really appreciate that.
Back to the problem.
I did some checks ,so.
High beams works fine , fuse F2 is ok , after swap relays still no fogs .
Front parking sensors :
4 x rear one working fine (chirping)
When I hit roof button there is no light on .
vin SAJAH54176BE84117
Car have DSC and dashboard showing this error light as well with abs .
Mercury, well, when it comes to the fog lights, this pretty much only leaves either a bad headlight switch or a broken wire between fuse F2 and the headlight switch. If you want to rule out the headlight switch, I can tell you what pins to short together to bypass the headlight switch (this will require removing the headlight switch so we are only testing the headlight switch itself).
As for the front parking sensors, what you are going to need to do next is remove the overhead console and look at the wires on the back of the switch. I am going off of memory here, but you should see a black wire and another wire. Do a resistance check from the black wire to chassis ground. You should get 0 ohms (less than 5 is ok). If you are getting more than that, then you have either a bad wire or the ground point in the left footwell area has come apart (which would help explain the passenger seat issue). If you have a good ground, then measure the voltage on the other wire. You should see that you have a voltage on the wire when you push the button one time and if you push it again, it should drop to zero. If you have zero volts all the time, then odds are you have a bad parking module. If you have voltage on it all the time, then you have a bad push button.
I will have to look at the drawings to figure out the ABS. I will get back to you later on that.
Mercury, if you pull out the headlight switch, you will see 2 green wires with a white stripe (pins 15 and 11 on the same plug). You will want to undo the plug to the headlight switch and then install a small piece of wire between those 2 pins. If the fog lights come on, then this confirms a bad headlight switch. Otherwise, this is going to confirm a bad wire between the fuse box and the headlight switch. If you leave a little bit of copper exposed, you can confirm this by doing a voltage measurement between pin 15 and chassis ground.
As for your ABS issue. The more I look into this, the more it points to a bad mechanical block that the ABS module plugs into. This is where those sensors are located that you have the fault codes for. The troubleshooting guides that I have simply state to replace the entire block and not to perform any sort of troubleshooting of it (so, there is no real information as to what the resistances should be). I know you have replaced the computer side of things, but this is most likely a mechanical module issue. The interesting part of this whole saga is that the wheel farthest from the ABS unit is the one that seems to work.
Hopefully this gives you something to start looking at.
Thanks for replying.
I connected two pins 11 & 15 by wire with ignition on and off (wasn't sure ) there is no fogs.
So, it's can be a bad wire betwen master switch and fuse box as you mentioned.
Wires outside looking ok , maybe something in side is wrong .
Not sure That I have done this correct way but give power to pin 11 without taking plug off from the master switch and set fog lights on . Icon on dashboard has shown and fogs start working :-)
do you know what this mean ? :-)
I will do rest checking during weekend.
thank you Termo once again .
If you are applying power externally to pin 11 and the fog lights are working, then you are bypassing the bad wire between the headlight switch and the fuse box. This is telling you that all the wiring between the headlight switch and the fog lights is good.
Hi Thermo
Just traying figureout witch colour of fog lights wire going from fuse box in too main switch .
would be this wire with black tape on it ?
if so , hi have a power on .
it will be very painful to find this short :-)
The wire that you are after is a green wire with a white stripe on it. To locate this wire, get to the back side of the fuse box and if you look on the long sides of the fuse box, one side is going to have 4 plugs, the other is going to have 2 plugs. You want to look on the side that has 2 plugs. From there, you will notice that one plug is a 12 pin plug near the corner of the fuse box, the other is an 8 pin plug (more towards the center of that side). You are after the 8 pin connector. Based on your picture, it would be on the far side of the fuse box from what you have pictured.
Something that you may want to get is what is called a tracer. In short, what this device does is you remove say a fuse to the fog lights and you can adapt a wire to plug into the bulb side of the fuse. The device puts a signal on the wire that with a second part of the device, you can run this device along the outside of the wire to see where the signal is going. No need to cut into the insulation or anything like that. What you should find is as you are running along the wire (from one end to the other), you will have the sensing part telling you that it can still see the signal and then as some point it is going to say that it can't see it. Inbetween those 2 points is your problem (closer to where you last got the signal). From there, if it is at say a plug, you probably have a high resistance connection there. If you see damage to the insulation, that is probably your problem spot. This device makes finding problems a lot easier as you don't have to rip apart a lot of tape and whatnot on the wiring harness except where the problem lies. The device that I am talking about is something like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Best-RJ11-R...XQ8p7zTG-wKSxQ. This is a great tool for finding wiring issues with cars. On this one specifically, you would plug the alligator clips into the sender and then the red alligator clip to a pin that you put in the fuse box where the fog light fuse goes. From there, you turn on the sender (left device in the case) and use the wand (right device in the case) to track the wire. Once you get the hang of using this device, it can save you a lot of time. Then your big trick is just getting your hand near the wiring to run the want near the wire. It will normally pick up the signal as long as you are within say an inch or so of the wire (this distance is dependent upon how sensitive you have the wand set, pros and cons to the setting).
Of note, the one that you have tagged appears to be the switchable power to the fan controller.
Hello Thermo,hope that you are well.
Sorry for the delay in replying but just got tracker .
So, if you can please have a look on a picture . I did it like that and checked a wire .
there is two green wires with white strip on it in C1 plug thicker( number 8)
which has been checked . This one going in to main switch and I can pick up signal near switch , so wire is good .
Now, when I change crocodile clip in second slot of number F2 fuse box I can't pick up any signal at all.
Can I ask you for another clue please Thermo .
Mercury, the other side of F2 would be going back to relay R1. so, if you used your tracker and put it near relay R1, you would hear it chirping.
As for not getting power, if you look on the probe (where the sound comes from), You should have a little dial on it that will affect the sensitivity. In short, what this will do is if you dial it down some, you will need to be closer to the wire to make it chirp. From what you are describing, you either have a broken wire right at the plug for the headlight switch (at pin 15) or a recessed pin at Pin 15.
Something that you may want to try is using a pin, slide the pin into the back of the headlight plug at pin 15 when you turn on the car (have the plug plugged into the headlight switch). Now, turn on the fog lights and do a voltage measurement on the pin and chassis ground. Do you get 12 VDC there? If yes, then we are sure that the wiring is good between the fuse box and headlight switch. If you do not get 12 VDC, you can measure for 12 VDC using the metal tabs on the top of fuse F2 and make sure you have 12 VDC between those little metal tabs and chassis ground. If you did get 12 VDC on Pin 15, then move the pin over to Pin 11 and check for 12 VDC. If you have 12 VDC, then this would point to the wiring down to the fog lights. If you don't have 12 VDC, then this points to a bad headlight switch.
It may be possible that one of the pins in the headlight plug has been hurt and has been spread too wide. So, what is happening is the 2 sides of the plug are coming together, but the metal pieces inside are not touching, leading to a break in the wiring. This is where you may need to pull the pins out of the plug (one at a time) and flex them a little bit to make them make contact.
Something just hit me. Before you do all that other stuff I just mentioned, connect up your sounder like you did in the picture. This time, leave the plug connected to the headlight switch. Keep the sensitivity dialed down, but tone the wiring up to Pin 15 and then jump over to the other green/white wire on pin 11 and start following it to where it goes through the firewall. At some point, I bet you are going to loose the chirping. If you loose it near the headlight switch, then odds are you have a bad headlight switch. If you loose it under the dash, then you have a broken wire under the dash. If you maintain the tone as far as you can trace it under the dash, then go out to the fog lights and see if you have tone there. No tone, you have a wiring problem under the hood. Chirping at the fog lights, then you have a ground wire issue.
I know we have proven some of these wires good, but we have missed something. I think this sounder tool is going to help clear things up for us.
I have checked pin 15 in headlight switch before and fog lights was working including icon on dashboard .
Just to clarify, to check pin 11 - unplugg headlight switch - connect tracker to pin 11 and follow ?
headlight plugs are ok.
05-09-2018, 07:21 AM
ABS light permanent ON
