AIRCON oil
After my aircon compressor locked up solid causing me to book in for a new one I am told by a friend that had I had the oil changed in the compressor this may not have happened. I have never heard of this oil change being required before. "I have not asked the workshop which is to do the work yet"
Any thoughts on this please?
Any thoughts on this please?
There is oil in the compressor, but it rarely causes failure unless the system was completely drained and oil was not replaced before freon charging = doubtful. And there is NO REQUIREMENT of changing the oil.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...pacity-183979/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...pacity-183979/
Last edited by Dell Gailey; May 24, 2022 at 04:59 AM.
The newer freons have the oil added in with the freon. This is why you have to shake up the can and also hold it up side down in a lot of cases. You keep the can upright and all the oil settles to the bottom and if you fill your system a few times following a leak, I could see where you could loose enough oil to lead to a failure (leak location being a major factor).
This one has just gone silly. Aircon compressor locked up solid a few months ago so I removed the compressor clutch fuse. All OK of course until I replaced the fuse yesterday to take the car in to have the system looked at. AND IT ALL WORKED FINE. How can a compressor lock up solid or near solid then clear itself? I am stumped.
I had that happen years ago on my Mother's Pontiac Bonneville. It ended up being worn parts that when it called for compressor to engage from the freewheeling "clutch" statis (freewheeling of the pully) it didn't fully work and would seize. I cheated it by sticking some homemade shims into the area. Worked for 2 more years until the car was totaled in an accident. It's hard to describe what was wrong, but if you can envision the pully freewheeling when compressor not needed and then when needed the engaging of the compressor parts to drive the compressor weren't fully moving the required distance and it seized with the belt burning because the motor drive was still applying movement force but the compressor pully "hung" between freewheeling and compressor drive position. So my fix was really engaging the compressor constantly which really caused no problems or concerns as we all know more modern cars engage the compressor when using in the winter cold to reduce humidity in the cabin. Usually intermittently as needed but having the compressor running full time never raised a problem.
I found the problem accidentally by good old sticking screwdrivers everywhere and accidentally seen this part shift back to "freewheeling" of pully. Started car,, no burning belt...was watching it under bright directed light when the car called for the compressor to kick in and seen the movement of the part that I had sprung back to "neutral" move to engage position but seized again with belt screaming and burning. Hence my cheat shade tree garage fix! LMFAO!!
I found the problem accidentally by good old sticking screwdrivers everywhere and accidentally seen this part shift back to "freewheeling" of pully. Started car,, no burning belt...was watching it under bright directed light when the car called for the compressor to kick in and seen the movement of the part that I had sprung back to "neutral" move to engage position but seized again with belt screaming and burning. Hence my cheat shade tree garage fix! LMFAO!!
Last edited by Dell Gailey; May 25, 2022 at 05:16 PM.
Problem solved now. The pump had not locked up solid as I thought but it was just very difficult to turn. DUE TO NO FLUID IN THE SYSTEM It had nearly all leaked out through leaks in the pipes going into the pump. Repairs and a re gas has cured it and now all is well. I had had some very duff advice from a trusted garage who wanted to fit me a new pump for £600.
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