What would cause a difference in output temperature between the pax and driver side outlets. This just started about 3 weeks ago. There's a anywhere between 10 - 20 degree difference between the sides. The pax side is in the normal range of 45 to 50 degrees but the drives side ranges around 55 to 65 degrees but occasionally dropping to match the pax side but only for an instant returning to the high numbers quickly. The drivers side output temp drops to the colder reading when slowing for a stop or cornering in town but then starts to warm up as soon as your speed increases.
This is driving me crazy.

 

Green machine, I am having this same issue. I am thinking it is the blend door actuator that is causing issues, but I haven't had the time to really look into this at the moment. If you do find out anything, let me know. I will be curious as to what is going on. Atleast in my car, I know the freon charge is good as I just recharged the system and it worked great for a short time there after.

 

I haven't had the system checked out yet. It was suggested from one source that it might be slightly low on freon, but at the time it seemed to be just putting out warm air. But now it seems to be operating normally on the pax side but putting out warmer air on the drivers side. Your suggestion about the blend door being the culprit sounds interesting. How do you go about checking out the blend door??
Another just annoying problem that occasionally the re-circulating button will pop off and I have to press it again. But I think this is just a problem with the button. It sure doesn't take long to realize the change when that has happen. The outside air intake sure makes a big difference. But that affects the whole system not just one side.

 

Green machine, you can access the blend door actuator by getting into the passenger footwell area and pulling off the bottom actuator (need to remove the passenger vent duct to access). From there, you can use an allen key to move the blend door some.

As for the recirc door, please keep in mind that you have two different settings for it. If you just push the button, it will only remain on recirc for like 5 minutes. If you press and hold the button, you will see the screen change after a few seconds. This will lock the recirc door into the recirc mode.

 

Thanks for the tips. I didn't know there were different settings for the re-circulation button because most of the time it has operated continuously by simply pressing it in quickly and releasing it.
For the last couple of days while driving around on errands I've been running through the complete operation of the system. Thinking maybe this would work out any kinks in the operation of the different doors etc. I've run the temperature manually from low to high, recirculation to outside air, went through all of the different vent settings, turn the whole system off then back on but the temperature difference is still there.
So, I guess I'll have to put my almost 72 year old bones through the torture test and get down on the pax side floor and see if I can see a problem there.

 

See my post on resolving this issue: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...89/#post579583

 

Been too busy at my son's wedding for the last few days to be able to look at this. But now, having thought about it I don't think it's anything to do with doors/flaps. Although Thermo re filled his system, the track record still indicates that this temperature differential across the car is a sign of a low charge. The result of the low charge is that the evaporator (Where the air cooling takes place) is only cold on one side - the inlet side, which is also the passenger side in RHD models, though maybe not over the pond? Anyway, the airstream leaving the evaporator is cool on one sde and less so on the other. It passes up a single trunk to the point where it divides between passenger and driver's side, one getting warm and the other cold. Well, that's the theory! Take your pick!